Just getting started

[_CROW]

I just recently relocated to northern Michigan and I'm leasing a house with an OWB. I've never cut wood before. I need to buy a saw, but my thinking is to get an entry level saw to learn with(~$100 on cl or eBay ) before I plop down a handful of cash on "the" saw.

Also, tips, tricks and recommendations on necessary equipment would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Fifelaker]

Where at in northern Mi. are you? Maybe near someone who could could show you the ropes? I would not get a $100 special unless you can work on a two stroke. With an owb your going to cut more wood than you think. This is my 9th year with an owb I burn around 10 full or 30 face cord a year. You should also invest in chaps,hearing and eye protection. DO you plan on scrounging or buying wood?

 

[nmurph]

I just recently relocated to northern Michigan and I'm leasing a house with an OWB. I've never cut wood before. I need to buy a saw, but my thinking is to get an entry level saw to learn with(~$100 on cl or eBay ) before I plop down a handful of cash on "the" saw.

Also, tips, tricks and recommendations on necessary equipment would be greatly appreciated.

Get a good, used saw, and read and ask questions here. Plan to spend $200-350 for the saw and then another $150 for safety equipement. A $100 saw will likely leave you frustrated, though some will direct you to some of the old Homelites or Poulans which can be found for your money.

 

[_CROW]

Just west of Cadillac.

I'm pretty familiar with 2 stroke repair (lifelong snowmobiler), but what would you say the least I could spend on a beginner saw? Recommendations? I plan on scavenging for wood instead of having it delivered, that's my plan for now anyway.

I'm learning the ins and outs of this OWB too. Moved in mid February and have gone through about 2 cords (3500 sq ft + 1600 sq ft garage). I love the fact that the only propane used has been for the stove and dryer.

 

[H 2 H]

Welcome to AS

 

[cat-face timber]

Depending on the dealers in your area.
I would buy the largest Husky you could afford and go from there.
That way there will be a warranty on your saw.
But, becareful.... If you spend much time here you will have lots of saws
you may even have parts for saws that you do not have, just for trading purposes.

In all seriousness, I would not buy used, unless you can work on a saw and keep up with the maint/RR parts ect.

Welcome to the Madness....

 

[jus2fat]

Check the saws in the "classifieds" at the top of AS homepage..!!

Many good used saws for sale and very unlikely you will buy a bad saw.

'nmurph' usually has some quality saws at around $200-$300..Super Reputation..!!

J2F

 

[jropo]

Try one of these.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192321.htm

 

[_CROW]

Thanks for all the replies.

What is the minimum recommend cc and bar length for cutting firewood? I'm sure there are a ton of variables, but...

 

[genesis5521]

I just recently relocated to northern Michigan and I'm leasing a house with an OWB. I've never cut wood before. I need to buy a saw, but my thinking is to get an entry level saw to learn with(~$100 on cl or eBay ) before I plop down a handful of cash on "the" saw. Also, tips, tricks and recommendations on necessary equipment would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Crow:

You'll probably need 10 cords a year to feed that OWB. Any saw can handle that. If ya wanna start out on the cheap (that's just what I did many years ago) Tractor Supply sometimes runs a sale on the Poulan Wild Thing for $99 (normally $149.99) and that includes a nice carrying case, and a 1 year warranty. OR like Jropo said, the Poulan Pro 5020 for $199 with a 2 year warranty. Another nice saw would be the Stihl MS250 (45.4 cc, 3 HP, $299), or the Stihl MS290 (56.5 cc, 3.8 HP, $349). The MS290 is Stihl's biggest bang for the buck. It's not fancy or high tech. It uses old tried and true technology. It's what I use. Stihl sells more 250's and 290's than all of their other models combined. There are quite literally hundreds of thousands of them in use. Either of these two models would be all you would ever need. You'll probable want a few spare chains, maybe an extra bar, and for sure, at least some protective head gear and gloves. Chaps and boots would be nice to. What about an axe, wedges, come-along, sharpening files, gas can, etc. All this stuff adds up, but ya need it. Best to use gas without ethanol and drain the tank if the saw will sit for a week.

I'm sure other will chime in with their very valuable recommendations. Just remember, ya really don't "need" a "Pro" saw, unless you just plain "want" a Pro saw. But really, you should visit a bunch of local chainsaw dealers (regardless of brand) and get whatever you're most comfortable with. Any new saw you buy today is gonna be a pretty darn nice saw.

Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing Chainsaw - 3921750 | Tractor Supply Company

Poulan® Pro PP 5020 AV 20 in. Chainsaw - 3910602 | Tractor Supply Company

MS 250 Chain Saw | STIHL USA

MS 290 STIHL FARM BOSS® | STIHL

Stay safe and have fun with your new tool (toy)!

Don <><

 

[FATGUY]

a good one saw plan is 60cc and 20" bar. I would go to your local Home Depot's rental dept. and see if they're selling any of their rental Makita 6401's. They're a HELL of a saw. Once the bug for more power bites you, you'll be able to swap out top ends and have a KILLER saw for very little money comparatively.

 

[mdavlee]

60 cc and a 20" bar would be a good choice. A 555 husky wouldn't be a bad choice

 

[genesis5521]

Thanks for all the replies. What is the minimum recommend cc and bar length for cutting firewood? I'm sure there are a ton of variables, but...

Hi Crow:

There are a lot of variables. As you're cutting maybe 10 cords a year, don't get to caught up with cc's? Even the smallest 30cc saw can handle 10 cords a year. I know because that's what I used for 10 years. You could start out with a little 30cc saw and get something bigger later on (if you think you need bigger). Or you could go a little bigger right off the bat. For 10 years I used a little Stihl MS170 (30.1 cc, 1.7 HP, $189) with a 14" bar and cut 50 full cords with that little sucker. I prefer a 16" bar on my new Stihl MS290 because it has less reciprocating chain mass and better optimizes the 290's 3.8 HP. Just do your home work, ask questions here, visit a bunch of chainsaw shops, and you'll do fine. Above all, don't let us talk you in to anything. You don't have to get this model or that model. You should get what's most comfortable and affordable for you. We're just sharing our personal experiences with you to give you some food for thought.

I teach computer courses at a tech college. I don't tell my learners to run out and buy a $1200 laptop just because that's what I have, when all most of them need is a $350 laptop. I wince very time someone shows me their brand new thousand dollar laptop which they don't even know how to turn on ! It's true. This actually happens. The point is, you don't need to go over board on a chain saw. But you may simply want to. And that's cool. Just do your homework.

Is a Stihl MS261 better than my Stihl MS290? Sure it is. But it's also $200 more expensive, and I just can't justify that additional cost as I cut only 10 cords a year. It just wasn't worth it to me. My MS290 will do everything I'll ever ask of a chain saw, and then some. Now don't run out and buy a 290 without first checking out a whole bunch of brands and models. You may prefer something different.

Don <><

 

[Guido Salvage]

A few thoughts....

* Avoid e-Bay as you will have no idea of what you bought until it is in your hands.
* Find someone locally who is skilled in wood cutting to show you the ropes.
* Don't be afraid to ask questions (it might just save your life)
* Before buying a saw, why not rent a couple of different ones? You can try out a couple of brands and/or sizes before you make the plunge of buying a saw.
* Be sure to buy (and use) PPE (Personal Protection Equipment). At a minimum chaps, helmet, eye and ear protection. Others may suggest steel towed boots and gel gloves.
* Start small and work up. Learn to use the saw bucking before you start trying to drop large trees.
* If you buy a used saw, do it locally and take someone with you who knows what to look for (scored piston, bad AV mounts, worn sprocket/bar/chain, etc. However, the Trading Post here often has decent deals.

Remember, you probably need to be working a year or two in advance (depending on what you are cutting) in order to have seasoned wood when you need it.

 

[Diesel Pro]

Brother in Law has a MS260 Stihl and an old Poulan and that is all he needs.

I started with my 359 and that is really all I need. I added the 345 as an inexpensive limbing saw and to help if I got pinched. Then CAD got ahold of me.

To be honest though Except for monster big wood, the 346XP is just sweetness. Brother In Law drools over it. It actually scares him because it revs so quick. They are actually pretty reasonable too.

 

[Scooterbum]

You need a Homelite XL12.
Everyone should start with this saw.
Tough as nails and will do everything you could want for a firewood saw.
Plenty to be had used, Parts all over ebay.

 

[CTYank]

You're going to be doing lots of cutting. The CHAIN on your saw does the cutting; taking care of the chain is essential.

Learn how to tell when the chain is getting dull (generating dust rather than chips.)

Learn how to file your own chains, and how to time doing it before the chain gets dull. Your chain, bar, and engine will last longer and live better. Clean dust & chips regularly from your engine's cooling fins.

Measure oil and fuel carefully for mixing.

Now you can focus on how to use the saw effectively.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

You're going to be doing lots of cutting. The CHAIN on your saw does the cutting; taking care of the chain is essential.

Learn how to tell when the chain is getting dull (generating dust rather than chips.)

Learn how to file your own chains, and how to time doing it before the chain gets dull. Your chain, bar, and engine will last longer and live better. Clean dust & chips regularly from your engine's cooling fins.

Measure oil and fuel carefully for mixing.

Now you can focus on how to use the saw effectively.

:agree2:!


Welcome to AS! If you've worked on your sleds, you have a start with two strokes!

Growing up cutting wood I never had chains that cut as well as mine do now. Because of what I've learned here on AS about how to tell what a sharp chain looks, cuts, and feels like!

 

[Captain Crunch]

Husky 50 and 55 are worth a look. Metal cases, reliable and tough. Look for a clean one as you can easily spend just as much getting a beat one up to snuff. (beat and free, that's different).

 

[ft. churchill]

I too started cutting firewood this year after buying a Kuma wood classic wood stove to heat my home. I cut some years ago in the late seventies with a old homelite top handle saw. Today's saws are much better. You got some excellent advice here, notably guido's salvage, ctyank and genesis all had good ideas. I too almost bought the MS250 or the MS290. I ended up with a Husky 350/353 which I muff modded and it is my go to wood cutting saw. (about the same as a 346XP). Do get your safety gear and use it. Also buy a full chisel pro style chain and sharpen it with a file as soon as you notice that is not 100%. 5 to 10 minutes with the hand file will save alot of effort and wear and tear on the saw you choose. Good cutting and stay safe out there.