so here is my problem just starting out on my own and all I have for saws is a 192t,230,and 044. You can see the gap I have in saws. I need something bigger then my 230 but smaller then my 044. I was thinking 361. this is for climbing, any advice?
large climbing saw advice.
- Thread starter adam0321
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
361 if you can find it or a 362, either will run up to a 20" bar in just about anything and weight to power ratio is pretty decent on the 361. 362 got a little heavier.
originalhooker
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi Adam,
have you tried a 16" bar on the 044? Loosing some length makes the 044 easier to climb w/ & you can rapidly work down a spar. If that's not your thing, go w/ a 026 or 028 w/ 16" .50gauge. You can generally find good deals on CL for those.
have you tried a 16" bar on the 044? Loosing some length makes the 044 easier to climb w/ & you can rapidly work down a spar. If that's not your thing, go w/ a 026 or 028 w/ 16" .50gauge. You can generally find good deals on CL for those.
I'd go with the 26 if you're figuring on climbing with it much. 36 is great for chunking down a spar but bigger than I like for most climbing.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
When I first started out on my own I climbed with an 026 with an 18 inch bar and had an 044 with a 25" bar for the big stuff in the tree and on the ground. That's the only 2 saws I had when I first started. I then started buying cheap Husky's to climb with (I think 142). They were throw away saws and after I went through 2 of them I got one of the older, top handled green Poulans (pretty popular climbing saw back in the day). To tell the truth, the Stihl 025's were not a bad saw. I climbed with one of those for awhile too.
The 361 is a nice saw. I run one and it is nice to have in the tree for big wood. A little easier to handle than the 044 but not so much so that I would buy one just for that purpose. To tell the truth, when I get into big wood and see that I am going to need my 044 I skip the 361. I only like to change out saws once to save time. Really, I don't see a huge gap in your saws. I would think you are pretty well covered if you are on the econo plan. But if you have got the money the 361 is nice to have. Personally, if I were in your position I would save my money and get me a 200T.
The 361 is a nice saw. I run one and it is nice to have in the tree for big wood. A little easier to handle than the 044 but not so much so that I would buy one just for that purpose. To tell the truth, when I get into big wood and see that I am going to need my 044 I skip the 361. I only like to change out saws once to save time. Really, I don't see a huge gap in your saws. I would think you are pretty well covered if you are on the econo plan. But if you have got the money the 361 is nice to have. Personally, if I were in your position I would save my money and get me a 200T.
Treecutr
ArboristSite Operative
I've got similar set up 192t, MS310, and 460. I use the 460 with 25" Bar and 310 with 18" for chunking down the spar, and 310 also for tops, and bigger limbs. I think I need something a little lighter than 310 though.
Adam, I started not to reply because I'm retired and my knowledge of modern saws is whoafully lacking. When I was climbing in the 70's and 80's most of our work was in tight residential yards. It was common to limb the tree out and drop the blocks in one spot to make only one dent to patch. I liked to use my Homelite 1050 with a 24 in bar. That's a heavy 100 cc saw. If I had a 40' stob it would be roughly 20 cuts. With a 2 or 3 man ground crew they would grab a block each as soon as it hit the ground and head to the truck. By the time one got back another block was on the ground. Once they got too heavy they started rolling them. I'd set my flip line so I could step up for the first cut and then step down for the second with out moving the flip line. If the blocks got too heavy to get to the truck and back by the time they hit the ground, they just cleared the impact spot and then I would join in when I got down. Time a 100 cc saw cutting a 24" log and you'll see how fast a 40 footer will be on the ground. The other thing from a climbers point, with good groundies, when you step down and unlace your hooks, all the wood is on the truck, Joe.
dandandatreeman
ArboristSite Member
I climb with ms250 with a 18" bar. It is just a few lbs more than a ms200t and has enough power to do the job. I started climbing with a 195 top handle saw and graduated to the 200 t. Now I like the 250 with the 18" bar. I can reach out with it another two feet further than with a top handle, and I have two more inches of bar.a
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, the little top handle Poulans weren't bad climbing saws for their time. The problem I had with them were they had a tendency to not want to start once they got hot. I remember many a time in a tree pulling the pull cord over and over, cussing and calling for another saw. I climbed with a little Echo for a while that wasn't bad either.
The problem with all the little top handled echo's, poulans, huskies, even the stihl 192 is that they just don't have enough ass in the tree. They are fine for small prune jobs but they all bog in a crotch cut. That's why I will never go without a 200T anymore. It handles anything it's 14" bar can get through without bogging; plenty of power to get through whatever you cut and then some.
When I do crane work I often like to start out with the 260. I actually use to like to start out with the 029, 025 with 18" bars on crane jobs when I owned those saws. You can get a lot done with a 50ish CC saw and an 18" bar before you have to call for the big saw. I don't run any saws with an 18" bar anymore but sometimes wish I did. Nice to have in the tree, especially with the larger cuts on aerial lifts. I am running a 16" on my 260 and a 20" on my 361 these days.
The problem with all the little top handled echo's, poulans, huskies, even the stihl 192 is that they just don't have enough ass in the tree. They are fine for small prune jobs but they all bog in a crotch cut. That's why I will never go without a 200T anymore. It handles anything it's 14" bar can get through without bogging; plenty of power to get through whatever you cut and then some.
When I do crane work I often like to start out with the 260. I actually use to like to start out with the 029, 025 with 18" bars on crane jobs when I owned those saws. You can get a lot done with a 50ish CC saw and an 18" bar before you have to call for the big saw. I don't run any saws with an 18" bar anymore but sometimes wish I did. Nice to have in the tree, especially with the larger cuts on aerial lifts. I am running a 16" on my 260 and a 20" on my 361 these days.
squad143
Tree Guy
Adam0321,
I think you'll be happy with the 361.
I was using 200, 026, 046 and an 088 and bought a 361 for times when the 026 was too small and the 046 was too much. Great saw.
I switch bar length on the 026 depending on the type of wood (hemlock vs. maple for example). I can run a longer (18-20inch) on the softwoods. I also switched the 026 from a 325 chain to a 3/8th, for convenience.
I think you'll be happy with the 361.
I was using 200, 026, 046 and an 088 and bought a 361 for times when the 026 was too small and the 046 was too much. Great saw.
I switch bar length on the 026 depending on the type of wood (hemlock vs. maple for example). I can run a longer (18-20inch) on the softwoods. I also switched the 026 from a 325 chain to a 3/8th, for convenience.
dantiff2
ArboristSite Lurker
I love my 026 when i'm up high. Can run up to a 20" and still be light weight. I hang it off my side and dont get worn out cause of the weight. Plenty of power compared to a top handle saw.
Dan
Dan
Mark Janet
ArboristSite Lurker
Re :large climbing saw advice.
I suggest that please maintain your power ratio and try to speed up when you cross your limit. But i am go only 26 not more than this.
Thanks,
Mark Janet
I suggest that please maintain your power ratio and try to speed up when you cross your limit. But i am go only 26 not more than this.
Thanks,
Mark Janet
Huh?
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
I always try to speed up when I cross my limit... :hmm3grin2orange:
1970GTO
MS200T Undisputed WORLD CHAMPION
361 up in the Tree
I have climbed for 15+ years now in my own company and have used 026, 361, 044, 064 and 660 up in the trees when the need for it called.
MS361 is your best bet up in the tree if you need to cut big chunks or top a large diameter tree. It is light and can handle a 28" Bar if needed. If you only need a 20" Bar and want to stay as light as possible then go with a HUSQVARNA 353 or a DOLMAR PS5100. The DOLMAR is a little heavier then the 353 but also has more power.
STIHL 020AV, 020T, MS200T, 026, MS361, 044, MS440, 064, MS660
HUSQVARNA 350, 254XP, 262XP, 372XP, 575XP, 394XP, 3120XP
MAKITA 6401, 7901
EFCO 165
I have climbed for 15+ years now in my own company and have used 026, 361, 044, 064 and 660 up in the trees when the need for it called.
MS361 is your best bet up in the tree if you need to cut big chunks or top a large diameter tree. It is light and can handle a 28" Bar if needed. If you only need a 20" Bar and want to stay as light as possible then go with a HUSQVARNA 353 or a DOLMAR PS5100. The DOLMAR is a little heavier then the 353 but also has more power.
STIHL 020AV, 020T, MS200T, 026, MS361, 044, MS440, 064, MS660
HUSQVARNA 350, 254XP, 262XP, 372XP, 575XP, 394XP, 3120XP
MAKITA 6401, 7901
EFCO 165
so I found a 026 in a pawn shop for $285.00 googd bad??? I was looking at the 036 on ebay but cant decide... like i said I work mostly pine and not much over 22" so I think the 026 with a 18 inch bar is good. any ideas
ClimbinArbor
ArboristSite Guru
I use 192s, but i port the muffler and richen it a little... they run the same times as a 200, without the price tag... all you need is a drill, vise, and brake cleaner.
1970GTO
MS200T Undisputed WORLD CHAMPION
026 will do
026/18" is just fine for pine 22" topping.
Will be picking up a new DOLMAR 5100 for my topping/chunking needs - 4.1HP 11.5lbs can easily handle a 20" bar
MS200T King of Arborist Saws - well worth the $600
026/18" is just fine for pine 22" topping.
Will be picking up a new DOLMAR 5100 for my topping/chunking needs - 4.1HP 11.5lbs can easily handle a 20" bar
MS200T King of Arborist Saws - well worth the $600
