Liquid Gold (AKA Winter Bar Oil)

[Big Woody]

Can you believe this?

The Jonsered accessory catalogue advertises gallon jugs of winter bar oil. I had the dealer check with Tilton Equipment on the price. Hold on to your saw now: Over $30 dollars a gallon! and a minimum case order of 6 one gallon jugs (plus shipping).

Guess I'll stick with mixing the Kero or diesel.

Anyone have a cheaper source?

 

[Rotax Robert]

Try madsens www.madsens1.com I bought a few gallons last year for around $4

Rotax Robert

 

[DanManofStihl]

If you have a northern tool around just use their brand of oil it is thinner and workes really well in winter. I mix half poulan and half northern tool in the summer to make it alittle thicker. The northern tool brand was on sale here and it was around $2.50 a gallon.

 

[Fish]

That is relatively cheap, my bar oil starts @59.95 a gallon, add $9.95 if you want the
stabilizer to go with it.

 

[Lakeside53]

there must be a mistake. $30?? Even the Stihl "winter bar oil" is only about $6-7 list per gallon...exactly the same price as the "summer" oil.

Not sure about the "fish" oil.

 

[Fish]

My oil is PURE "SYNTHETIC"! so it must be good! It has tackyfiers, and additives so
when the liquid nitrogen hits the tank it won't explode. The stabilizer makes it viable
for at least a decade. It might cost a little extra, but isn't it worth it, the peace of mind. {Piece?}

 

[bwalker]

In kentucky it doesnt get cold enough for winter bar oil.
I live in upper Mi where it does and rarely use it. The only times its neaded is first thing in the morning when filling the saw as after that the engine heat warms the oil up.

 

[rustyb]

Anyone have a cheaper source?

Yes, canola oil from your favorite super market. And yes, I am serious.

 

[jp hallman]

Mix your bar oil 50/50 with USED ATF fluid, yes, used ATF fluid. ATF fluid is the best lubricant going. Used fluid doesn't have any acid in it like engine oil. Thins bar oil out yet doesn't skimp on lubrication.

 

[Lakeside53]

I also found the "winter" bar oil way too thin to use - ran though too fast. On the Stihl Pro-saws, the oil tank is part of the engine assy, and gets nice and hot quickly.

 

[Rotax Robert]

I believe you need a high compression oil cap with stabilized bar oil

 

[Fish]

The higher compression oil cap will cause it to "ping", then you would need to buy my
"octane" booster for an extra $9.95.

Also, for your info, it got plenty cold here last winter, it actually "SNOWED"
here "TWICE" last year, so there. They almost called off school.

 

[boilerhouse47]

liquid nitrogen

My oil is PURE "SYNTHETIC"! so it must be good! It has tackyfiers, and additives so
when the liquid nitrogen hits the tank it won't explode. The stabilizer makes it viable
for at least a decade. It might cost a little extra, but isn't it worth it, the peace of mind. {Piece?}

FISH, HOW DO YOU KEEP THE NITROGEN LIQIUD WHEN YOU ADD IT TO THE BAR OIL!!!

 

[Fish]

Admittedly, it is tricky at first, and you will have some mishaps, but it is all in the wrist.

I have tried other liquified gases on my MAGLEV bar/chain system, but nitrogen is the most economical. If you need any more details, I will have to refer you to one of our resident engineers, as I am just the genius that designed this system, I leave
the minor details to those guys.

 

[timistall]

Those who use "Dver Dull" on the chains always use "Ever Slick" bar oil

 

[timistall]

Or was it "Nver Dull"?

 

[Fish]

Timistall, is that a pic of you and your neighbor's dog?

 

[timistall]

No, it's my dog (it's how I bathe him) He dries faster

 

[vince]

Yes, canola oil from your favorite super market. And yes, I am serious.

i live in Canada right in the middle where it is the coldest. Up to - 35 celcius easy, and i agree up here we use canola oil to run the saws so we can cut through 3 ft of ice.

doesn't matter the temp. we still like to go scuba diving