Super grade bar oil, super cheap.

[Hddnis]

So I recently came into ownership of a bunch of oil products. First my brother bought out an estate and he traded me some of the tools out of the shop to help him move it all to his shop. He was going to throw away all the bottles and jugs of motor oil, ATF, gear oil, hydro oil, tool oil, etc. I said I'd take it, hated to see it all just get dumped.

Next I helped a neighbor move his shop and he pointed to a big cupboard against the wall and said "Anything in there you want is yours, I'm not moving it." I opened it up and found performance ATF, jugs of power steering fluid, synthetic motor oil, synthetic hydro oil, regular motor oil, synthetic gear oil and regular gear oil, 2 stroke oil, more ATF, Lucas gear oil addative, and even bar oil.

In less than a week I had about a hundred square feet of floor space in my shop covered with containers of these various oils and fluids. Most of the containers were opened and about half full. Several were unopened and the same brand I use, so I've got one oil change for the diesel.

What to do with the rest of it???

Well, I poured it all into a bucket, then a second bucket, mixed the two together by pouring back and forth. Now I've got over seven gallons of makeshift bar oil. Seemed like the thing to do with all that basically free oil and maybe an hours time. A little thinner than regular oil, but plenty tacky, good winter weight I'd say, seems to run fine, better even, really slick stuff. (Might be the Slick50 I poured in.)

It is a purple color, thanks to the performance ATF that was dyed that color. uttahere2:


Now I'm gonna get that gas addative that makes the exhaust smell like blueberry muffins.:msp_tongue:



Mr. HE

 

[gcdible1]

Its funny, I usually use either stihl b/c oil or tractor supply co. brand. Mainly out of convenience. Itasca is good as well. My dad only used to use old used oil. I heard a guy say he used ATF cause it was cheap for him to get and at 12 bucks a gallon for stihl oil he said he would rather buy a few more bars over time than spend it all on oil! If it were me, Id buy a cpl of gallons of regular b/c/ oil and mix it all up and run it! Might thicken it up a bit doing that.:smile2:

 

[fearofpavement]

Its funny, I usually use either stihl b/c oil or tractor supply co. brand. Mainly out of convenience. Itasca is good as well. My dad only used to use old used oil. I heard a guy say he used ATF cause it was cheap for him to get and at 12 bucks a gallon for stihl oil he said he would rather buy a few more bars over time than spend it all on oil! If it were me, Id buy a cpl of gallons of regular b/c/ oil and mix it all up and run it! Might thicken it up a bit doing that.:smile2:

I agree with this post and it is similar to what I just did. Get some TSC bar oil and mix in with this conglomeration. Then you will have added some tackifiers that are missing. It will work as is but if you mix in a bit of regular bar oil you will have a bar oil suitable for any cutting situation. This is true recycling. Using something that probably would have wound up in a dumpster. The old used motor oil actually does work for bar oil as far as lubricating chain (assuming there is no grit and debris in it of course) and I know of people that actually burn it in diesel engines after advanced filtering. I don't use old motor oil for the primary reason that it is "known to the state of California" to be a potential carcinogen. also, it is better suited for use with some of the older saws that had manual or auxiliary oilers so the amount of lube could be managed. I wouldn't use it on a modern high speed chain saw. But I wouldn't use it at all for the health risks.

 

[Gologit]

Well, I poured it all into a bucket, then a second bucket, mixed the two together by pouring back and forth. Now I've got over seven gallons of makeshift bar oil. Seemed like the thing to do with all that basically free oil and maybe an hours time. A little thinner than regular oil, but plenty tacky, good winter weight I'd say, seems to run fine, better even, really slick stuff. (Might be the Slick50 I poured in.)



Now I'm gonna get that gas addative that makes the exhaust smell like blueberry muffins.:msp_tongue:



Mr. HE

Sounds like exactly the same thing that happens in our shop every couple of years. We always know when the mechanics have had a house cleaning because a 55 gallon drum with a new BAR OIL sticker shows up right by the door where we can all see it.
I'm always suspicious of it because it can, and probably does, have every kind of petroleum product known to man in that barrel. There's no used motor oil but anything else is probably in there. A lot of the mechanics are firewood cutters and they're not likely to put anything harmful in the barrel. So far it seems to work out fine. The bars and chains and oilers seem to get along with it.

I'll use store bought bar oil when I can but all the hype about what brand of bar oil is best really is just that...hype.



And that additive that makes the exhaust smell good? Can you find one that smells like banana bread? With walnuts?

 

[Hddnis]

Not sure on the bannana bread. There was a post talking about it a few months back, drag racers use it. Seems good for a practical joke.




Mr. HE

 

[Hddnis]

As far as mixing it with bar oil...

As mentioned, I did, guessing at least 3 quarts worth.

Then there was the gear oil additive. That poured like honey, I left the container to drain overnight and it still didn't get all that stuff out, it is very tacky. About a gallon of this stuff went into the mix.

Other than the color it behaves just like winter grade bar oil.

Either way, I'll run it like it is and if I have any problems I'll report back with what I learned.




Mr. HE

 

[3000 FPS]

Synthentic

With all that synthentic oil you put in the mix you will probably find it lubricates better than just straight bar oil. Go for it.

 

[Hddnis]

Since we're on the topic of bar oil.

I usually run whatever the local co-ops will sell cheapest. Buying it by the bucketful or drum helps. I've been known to clean out Wal-Mart if they had the best prices, but it is hard to get enough from them.

About a year ago I turned down the oilers on my saws. It cut oil use by about 25% or so. I have not noticed any greater bar or chain wear. I used to think they needed to be turned all the way up. But the cost of bar oil is so high that I decided to see what happened. I'm sure that the newer bars and chains help with this, they seem to wear better overall.

I also started using old liquid laundry soap containers with the push-button valves to carry bar oil. They let a guy fill up with almost no spilling at all, good for rookies.

I just hate paying so much, bar oil is a real and measurable expense anymore.

Won't run used motor oil though, I've tried that and I don't like cleaning it off of everything.




Mr. HE

 

[Little Al]

I`m afraid i can`t help with the bluebery gas ad or the bannana 7 walnut exhaust aroma but if you use IPONE samouri 2stroke mix you will get a sweet smell of strawberrys.

 

[bama]

I changed out the hydrostatic transmission oil on my dad's 826 farmall a few years ago. I think it held 26 gallons. Nice, clean, oil. I put it back in the clean oil buckets and have been using it ever since. Oilers turned up and maybe mix with a little bar oil for tackification if I have some. No problems at all. Would not use used motor oil, but tranny oil is much nicer. Basically 10w oil.

 

[fearofpavement]

Just to clarify my post regarding the used motor oil. I am not recommending it. In fact I recommend that it isn't used for that purpose. I was merely noting that it used to commonly be used. The "black" in the used oil is generally not dirt or grit but on a more molecular level. That is why it has successfully been burned in a diesel engine which has a much smaller orifice in the injectors than any saw oiler plumbing. The place where used oil gets dirty is in the process of getting drained into a nasty oil pan from a dirty engine pan. Thus, post draining filtration would be necessary before mixing it into a diesel engine fuel.

NOTE: I do not burn used oil in diesels. I have read and heard of others that have. I have burned motor oil (unused) in a diesel and no changes in operation. (mixed as a percentage of the diesel fuel)

 

[ncfarmboy]

I read about using hyd. fluid mixed w/ Motor Honey or STP. 5 gal hyd to 1 qt of either for tackifier. Am going to try it when I get to Wally to pickup some Honey or STP.
Shep

 

[Warped5]

Now I'm gonna get that gas addative that makes the exhaust smell like blueberry muffins.:msp_tongue:



Mr. HE

Sounds like a good way to re-purpose all that oil!

BTW, I already have exhaust that smells like warm blueberry muffins ..











... after eating those muffins! :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[lps8]

bar oil for 3120

Husky manual for 3120 says if bar oil is not available, use 85w90 rear end lube.

Larry

 

[Eccentric]

Husky manual for 3120 says if bar oil is not available, use 85w90 rear end lube.

Larry

Yuck. Gear oil STINKS.........even new stuff.