Long bar vs short bar... and FIGHT

[northmanlogging]

First, I am from the US and have lived in Sweden since 2009, I do not work in the forest industry here, I am no expert. I do know several landowners here and take a big interest in forest activities and talk to whoever I can about forestry and logging. That said, in this region of Sweden (Kronoberg) it is predominantly spruce wih some pine and a small amount of hardwood. Ground is basically flat and probably 95% of logging is mechanized. A large prcentage of the land here is privately owned and there are a few guys, and I mean a few, that do there own thinning and harvests. The guys that I have met run 560's with 15-18'' bars, mostly .325. Wood is mostly in the 12-24 inch range. Further south it is much more hardwood, oak and beech, 372's and 576's are much more common with bar lengths 18-20 inches running .375. This is not to say there are not guys running bigger bars but they are in the minority. On big stuff guys just gut the face and bore it.

I could ramble for pages about Swedish ideas concerning chainsaw safety but the long and short of it, no pun intended, is longer bars are more dangerous because they are harder to control and fatigue the operator faster which causes more accidents. Always bore cut and leave a strap for maximum control even on trees that are leaning back. Most guys that have a fair amount of experience just bore in and cut around the back throwing in a wedge or two as they go.

SSD...GOL etc

Dancing around a stump is ridiculous, and a waste of time...

Longer bars are no harder to control then a short bar, both can kill you, but a long bar takes more to get it moving, making it slower in a kickback, also as someone else is sure to point out, a long bar will hit dirt usually before it hits flesh.

Also, limbing while walking next to the stem is all fine and good, try that 10' off the ground, then a long bar really shines.

I feel like I've had these arguments more often then is probably healthy, but I do know that those that are willing to try a long bar, generally praise the use of them, unless you plan on limbing spruce... then yeah, a short bar can be handy.

 

[ken morgan]

i run a 28" semi skip on my 372 and it makes limbing the tree much easier for me....no need to bend over (I am short to begin with) with the longer bar....anything that keeps the back aches away is a great thing when you hit 50

 

[BonScott46]

Do you even know what a back leaning tree is? ALWAYS bore cut a back leaner leaving a strap? Please tell me what happens when you cut that strap. Does the tree suddenly swing forward on the stump and head toward the fall all in one motion? You need to video this miracle and show to us heathens! You don't need to wedge the tree or saw in a Dutchman to help swing the tree? And the "guys that have a fair amount of experience" don't even need a face cut! Another miracle, "just bore in and cut around the back".

You really should not comment on things you know nothing about. Owning a chainsaw does not make you an expert. You are in way over your head. Just read the thread and move on. Here where the tree come in all shapes and sizes bore cutting is another tool in the tool box. Good to know when needed but not used very often.

Yes, I do know what a backleaning tree is ****. Do you even know what I am talking about in my post? I think you need to calm down and realize that I am talking about what people are taught to do here in SWEDEN. If you can't tell by reading my post that I am explaining what I know about SWEDISH ideas concerning chainsaw safety then maybe you should head your own advice and move on before getting all worked up. When people leave a strap on a back leaner they put wedges around the 'trigger' as they call it, which cayses its own problems, then cut the 'trigger'. Obviously guys are putting a face in when cutting around the back and using wedges. People who don't have a 'fair amount of experience' buy into these safety procedures whereas guys who do and actually understand a little bit about how trees behave when cut do not leave a strap and just bore in and cut around the back putting in wedges as they come around. This is AFTER they have put in a face just to be crystal clear.

 

[BonScott46]

SSD...GOL etc

Dancing around a stump is ridiculous, and a waste of time...

Longer bars are no harder to control then a short bar, both can kill you, but a long bar takes more to get it moving, making it slower in a kickback, also as someone else is sure to point out, a long bar will hit dirt usually before it hits flesh.

Also, limbing while walking next to the stem is all fine and good, try that 10' off the ground, then a long bar really shines.

I feel like I've had these arguments more often then is probably healthy, but I do know that those that are willing to try a long bar, generally praise the use of them, unless you plan on limbing spruce... then yeah, a short bar can be handy.

Just so I am clear, I was explaining what people here are taught about chainsaws and chainsaw safety. I think different length bars have there place depending on the situation like I said already in my original post. Here wood is smaller, everyone limbs from the side of tree, ground is flat and yada yada yada. This is how people like to run their saws here, like it or not.

 

[northmanlogging]

Just so I am clear, I was explaining what people here are taught about chainsaws and chainsaw safety. I think different length bars have there place depending on the situation like I said already in my original post. Here wood is smaller, everyone limbs from the side of tree, ground is flat and yada yada yada. This is how people like to run their saws here, like it or not.

No I get ya...

I was kind of agreeing, in my weird way...

I think folks learn something and are either too stubborn or too stupid to try anything new, gods know I've been there.

I've heard that .325 chain on a larger power head cuts very fast, alas, I'm not about to try it... cause reasons... (mostly investment in bars and sprockets to match, as well as my grinder not going that small) and to some extent that would explain the tendency to run a shorter bar, as long bars need a bigger chain.

 

[Khntr85]

How long have you had the 461...

Do you like it??

 

[northmanlogging]

How long have you had the 461...

Do you like it??

That one i got dec 2012? Right after they came out?

Love it, ****ing light saber, good torque, good chain speed, only issues I've had with it are a detonated spark plug and a few smashed parts from being runned over.

Bought a second one as a backup, its had arguably more abuse... still runs tip top

 

[thetoolnut]

had some boner tell me that a small saw with a short bar cuts faster then a big saw with a long bar... so

Short bars are light, will give one faster chain speeds and are ideal for brashing, limbing and small fells. Short bars are cheaper, short chains are also cheaper and quicker to sharpen. Big bars are heavy, expensive and require more maintaince. Long chains are also expensive and take longer to sharpen. That being said they each have a place in our industry. Small bars are designed for small saws and big bars are for big saws. I try to run the smallest powerhead/bar/chain combo that will get the job done.

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[Okie]

Next time you see that guy, tell him he has something brown on his lip, When he tries to rub it off tell him, never mind its just BS and it won't come off.

He also needs to maybe get into politics.

 

[Khntr85]

That one i got dec 2012? Right after they came out?

Love it, ****ing light saber, good torque, good chain speed, only issues I've had with it are a detonated spark plug and a few smashed parts from being runned over.

Bought a second one as a backup, its had arguably more abuse... still runs tip top

Sounds like they are holding up damn good!!!

What saw model did you run prior to the 461???

 

[northmanlogging]

Sounds like they are holding up damn good!!!

What saw model did you run prior to the 461???

had on 046 i started my logging career with, as well as an 066 with the blinky light... POS... and my skidder saw at the time was an ms260 (only one I still have and its tired now) Also thought I'd run an 039 cutting timber... there's another video about that saw... it drug a 32" bar for a couple years, but its a homeowners wretch of a saws...

I've ran everything from Homelite xl-12's Mac 10-10's Stihl 032 045 054 090 017 026 024 034 Poolans of various colors, Crapsmans,

My Dad has an old Sachs/Dolmar unsure of model, pulls a 32" bar with authority though... Loved running that saw (if makita had some balls and better dealer support, I would totally pick up one of the bigger pro saws they carry)

I've ran a couple Husqvarna's just never got to liking them, worked on more of em then I've ran

 

[RandyMac]

Oh jeeze!

 

[Stihl kickin]

Ive always thought that the diameter of the timber to be cut dictated saw size/bar length, providing you had a choice of course, obviously you make do with what you have but if a better combo is available why work harder than you need to?

 

[thetoolnut]

Ive always thought that the diameter of the timber to be cut dictated saw size/bar length, providing you had a choice of course, obviously you make do with what you have but if a better combo is available why work harder than you need to?

Exactly, well said. The huge egos one comes across in this industry sometimes dictate the powerhead/bar/chain combo. "Oh look at me, i've a 660 with a 30" bar and i'm going dropping sticks with it" It's just one giant **** measuring competition with these fellas. When i come across fella's like that i just roll my eyes, sigh and walk away.

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[Vibes]

I like your pry bar at 3:40...

Why I quit buying used saws.

 

[HarleyT]

So it's not the size of your bar but how you use it then ?

My wife usually tries to encourage me with an arguement similar to that.......

 

[RandyMac]

hey Northy, I gotta get another sticker from you, the last one went with the last Ranchero.
Might be in your woods sometime this year.

 

[northmanlogging]

hey Northy, I gotta get another sticker from you, the last one went with the last Ranchero.
Might be in your woods sometime this year.

I'll have to get some more made up... turns out the last batch had the wrong phone number on em...

Holler when yer getting close

 

[northmanlogging]

Why I quit buying used saws.

Don't worry, most of my saws never make it to the used market...

I either give em away or bury em

 

[Skeans]

Don't worry, most of my saws never make it to the used market...

I either give em away or bury em

My other favorite is when the locals decide they need it more then you do.

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