Long bar vs short bar... and FIGHT

[northmanlogging]

I chains em down in the back of the crummy

I sometimes notice when one of them has been moved...

Even go to the movies with em in the truck... big chains keep everyone honest.

 

[fool skip]

I run a 28 on my 362, a 32 on my 440, and a 36 on my 66, works for me. I don't like bending over to limb. Sometimes you want a little distance from what you are cutting. Way back when I had to run a 42 on steep ground with big timber. Always hated that thing. However it was very useful in getting that low corner on big bucking cuts wrapped around the hill. It was either use that clubby 42 or round up your partner to hang on to your heels while you draped yourself over the log to get that low corner. Riggin rats hate those russian couplings! I guess it all depends on what you are doing. Just the thought of a 660 with a 20" bar scares the crap out of me.

 

[stillhunter]

If I could only have one saw/bar it would be a 20"

 

[Skeans]

If I could only have one saw/bar it would be a 20"

I like my knees personally I've watched the guys doing pre commercial thinning most have knee issues from saws with 20" bars with a 372 or 044 saws so.

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[Vibes]

Don't worry, most of my saws never make it to the used market...

I either give em away or bury em

I'm aware!! But you never know when someone does that with a saw then runs into problems then unloads a clean one that they were prying with and throwing around.

 

[northmanlogging]

I'm aware!! But you never know when someone does that with a saw then runs into problems then unloads a clean one that they were prying with and throwing around.

True, big reason I avoid the homeowner saws all together, pro saws are just built better.

029-039s etc are mostly plastic with the bar bolts being in plastic, at least on one side, that **** is just stupid.

As I've said my saws get the crap clobbered out of em daily, and they hold up to it. Spend a little extra money on a decent saw and never fear.

That said, I have a stack of parts that have come of my poor ole ms260, I was hoping to someday put together an entirely roached saw of nothing but broken parts, sadly after 12-14 years of hard abuse, being run over, dropped from 80' up a tree, thrown off cliffs (on purpose, or not), rained on, stepped on, hit with axes... the meat of the old girl is still good, just starting to get tired is all. Still starts 3rd pull, but is weak, and rattly...

 

[ken morgan]

My wife usually tries to encourage me with an arguement similar to that.......

have your wife contact mine and explain that to her....after the second daughter My wife tells me to put the tool away as there is nothing to fix....leaves me stumped as being that I get no a$$ anymore If I say something mean in retort that just guarantees no a$$..... so not quite sure what to say....hook a brother up will ya?

 

[HarleyT]

the meat of the old girl is still good, just starting to get tired is all.

True.....

 

[WIslxer]

The best bar is the one that's attached to a Dolmar 7900! You'll be happy with whatever damn bar you want! ZING!!!!

In all seriousness (which I never truly am) a 70-80cc with a 24" is the sweet spot for me. I don't subscribe to the idea of using a smaller "limbing" size saw much. And before you even say it, yes, I have a job that requires me to carry a saw through the woods all effin day.

At home every time I think "oh what the hell I'll run one of the smaller saws today" I always end up just wishing I had the 7900, 8401 or 372 which all carry 24". (I do love that wrap 6100 though). Mostly the 7900 and 8401. Mostly the 7900. God I love that saw. ......... I digress

I find limbing much easier with a saw with reach than I do with a saw that weighs a pound or so less. By the end of the day the reach is much more noticeable to how sore I am than the couple of pounds.

24" is the cut off for me. 28" feels off to me and I'm basically never cutting anything that requires it. I do run all lightweight Sugi or Tsumura bars FWIW. I carry my saw over my shoulder and the added length to the bar also gives you better leverage with again 24" seeming to be the perfect size.

I bore cut and backstrap every tree I can. If the dbh allows it I'm bore cutting it. Just love the certainty it gives me in setting my holding wood perfectly. I guess unless it's pretty straightforward going with the lean sorta stuff. If I gotta get crazy against the lean I'll triple bore through the face and set three wedges in back then bore to set the holding wood. No shots at anyone here just describing my preference.

Covered a lot of subjects here and some of the tone of this thread leaves me feeling like I need to call someone a dumby to fit in so I'll succumb to peer pressure. THE FRONT OFFICE OF THE CHICAGO BEARS COULDN"T FIND THEIR ASS WITH BOTH HANDS AND A MAP!!! How's that?

 

[Ryan'smilling]

The best bar is the one that's attached to a Dolmar 7900! You'll be happy with whatever damn bar you want! ZING!!!!

In all seriousness (which I never truly am) a 70-80cc with a 24" is the sweet spot for me. I don't subscribe to the idea of using a smaller "limbing" size saw much. And before you even say it, yes, I have a job that requires me to carry a saw through the woods all effin day.

At home every time I think "oh what the hell I'll run one of the smaller saws today" I always end up just wishing I had the 7900, 8401 or 372 which all carry 24". (I do love that wrap 6100 though). Mostly the 7900 and 8401. Mostly the 7900. God I love that saw. ......... I digress

I find limbing much easier with a saw with reach than I do with a saw that weighs a pound or so less. By the end of the day the reach is much more noticeable to how sore I am than the couple of pounds.

24" is the cut off for me. 28" feels off to me and I'm basically never cutting anything that requires it. I do run all lightweight Sugi or Tsumura bars FWIW. I carry my saw over my shoulder and the added length to the bar also gives you better leverage with again 24" seeming to be the perfect size.

I bore cut and backstrap every tree I can. If the dbh allows it I'm bore cutting it. Just love the certainty it gives me in setting my holding wood perfectly. I guess unless it's pretty straightforward going with the lean sorta stuff. If I gotta get crazy against the lean I'll triple bore through the face and set three wedges in back then bore to set the holding wood. No shots at anyone here just describing my preference.

Covered a lot of subjects here and some of the tone of this thread leaves me feeling like I need to call someone a dumby to fit in so I'll succumb to peer pressure. THE FRONT OFFICE OF THE CHICAGO BEARS COULDN"T FIND THEIR ASS WITH BOTH HANDS AND A MAP!!! How's that?

QTLA. I agree about that Dolmar. They sure are sweet saws. I don't carry a saw all day, and 95% of the time I'm able to pull my Jeep or tractor to within a few yards of where I'm cutting. So I'll use my 7900 (28" here, I have no love for a 24", though your post makes me want to try again with a lightweight bar) to drop a tree and then switch to small saws. You ever run any ported 50cc saws? If not, I've got a couple here that might make you reconsider...

 

[WIslxer]

QTLA. I agree about that Dolmar. They sure are sweet saws. I don't carry a saw all day, and 95% of the time I'm able to pull my Jeep or tractor to within a few yards of where I'm cutting. So I'll use my 7900 (28" here, I have no love for a 24", though your post makes me want to try again with a lightweight bar) to drop a tree and then switch to small saws. You ever run any ported 50cc saws? If not, I've got a couple here that might make you reconsider...

I should clarify a little I don't carry a saw all day every day but there are many days when I do carry a saw all day. And no I haven't run a ported 50cc. I look forward to it. Don't get me wrong I love my 5105 and it's more than enough for most of the stuff I cut but the reach man. It's all about the reach. Saves my lower back a ton to have the 24" vs the 18" on the little saw.

On a side note to all who care I own four or five of these.

They are well worth it. Here's where you get em. http://thepackshack.com/shop/agora.cgi?product=Sawyer

Makes carrying your saw this way a much more comfortable and safe prospect and they also have a super handy tool pouch.

 

[Skeans]

I should clarify a little I don't carry a saw all day every day but there are many days when I do carry a saw all day. And no I haven't run a ported 50cc. I look forward to it. Don't get me wrong I love my 5105 and it's more than enough for most of the stuff I cut but the reach man. It's all about the reach. Saves my lower back a ton to have the 24" vs the 18" on the little saw.

On a side note to all who care I own four or five of these.
View attachment 627746
They are well worth it. Here's where you get em. http://thepackshack.com/shop/agora.cgi?product=Sawyer

Makes carrying your saw this way a much more comfortable and safe prospect and they also have a super handy tool pouch.
View attachment 627749

This is how most of us out in the NW carry a bar on our shoulders, myself I wear a bar pad then swing the nose out to the right with the wraps up against my back.

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[WIslxer]

This is how most of us out in the NW carry a bar on our shoulders, myself I wear a bar pad then swing the nose out to the right with the wraps up against my back.

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I have one of those too! I prefer the cover but it does add time to take on and off that commercial operations might not want.

 

[Bwildered]

This is how most of us out in the NW carry a bar on our shoulders, myself I wear a bar pad then swing the nose out to the right with the wraps up against my back.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Down here we turn the saw around & have the bar pointing out the back, less chance of taking out the jugular in a slip or trip.

 

[WIslxer]

Down here we turn the saw around & have the bar pointing out the back, less chance of taking out the jugular in a slip or trip.

That's the beauty of the cover. Obviously covers the whole chain but it also has a leather flap that keeps a hot muffler off your neck/back and keeps in inner felling dogs, for the most part, from gouging you in the back of the neck. Poor man's version is wrapping your chaps around the bar.

 

[Skeans]

Down here we turn the saw around & have the bar pointing out the back, less chance of taking out the jugular in a slip or trip.

One thing an old timer told me was always make sure your brake is off so if you do slip stuff can move. I'm more worried about the Dawgs then the chain myself.

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[fool skip]

Any you guys been around long enough to remember bushler's straps?