Is 30 Deg the pitch I would want? Thank you guys for all the help, I have been using 30 Deg on everything for years, And use the files that were given to me when i bought the chains. I did switch the 55 Rancher over to the same chain as the 562 XP but in a 18 so I can use the same chain and bars, I run a 20 on the 562.
Looking for a decent Chainsaw sharpener?
- Thread starter JOE.G
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Some run 25, some run 30
I mostly hand file, but when the chain gets rocked, or I can see I'm getting the angles off too far they go one the grinder. Oregon 511ax. Works great. There is a learning curve to using it and not burning up the cutters. Once set up you can buy through a pretty long chain in no time. I run up to 36". Takes about 8 ish minutes to do a full comp loop. One day ill upgrade to a cbn wheel. But the pink wheels work fine. Dressing them and exposing new material is critical for proper operation. Deffinatly wouldn't go back to just hand filling.
treetop surgery
ArboristSite Lurker
I have the timberline. It is ok but very fiddly. dependent on the chain being well maintained to begin with. its not a miracle solution that will have your chain sharp in seconds. it takes some expertise to get right however in the right hands im sure some people find it useful. for me, my chains are either perfectly sharp or dull as hell, and when they are blunt, i know that the chain needs significant work to be usable, and theres no avoiding that.
johnsayen
ArboristSite Operative
Agreed. It takes time and it also produces a good result.
I've always enjoyed hand filing, the stihl tool has made the process a breeze, just keep the files fresh and 4-5 passes gets'er done.
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Some people on here a few months back, would tell you there is nothing better than a Stihl 2 in 1 tool, now they might tell you round file is best, but if you want a grinder and can afford a grinder- go buy a grinder!
As others have stated, a grinder does not need to replace hand files, but can make it faster to bring back severe damage, or if you end up looking at several dull chains in the evening and you know they have to be sharp and ready to run early the next morning.
As others have stated, a grinder does not need to replace hand files, but can make it faster to bring back severe damage, or if you end up looking at several dull chains in the evening and you know they have to be sharp and ready to run early the next morning.
Like I said, I suck at hand filing. It is an art that I have yet to learn. Grinders help bridge the gap between half-moon cuts and new chains.
They have their place.
treetop surgery
ArboristSite Lurker
thats a good way to put it, its great to do the bulk of it with a more abrasive tool, the only thing thats concerned me about the angle grinder type automatic ones is that they heat up the cutting corners making them harder and not so easy to hand file afterwards. I heard the timberline with a medium speed electric drill was good for getting roudn this issue
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The answers are all there above in earlier posts, use the best stones you can, dress the stones and don't take too big of a bite or too fast of a stroke.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use the file n guides, the guide sharpens the top edge. Then I use the file by itself under the top edge to open up the gullet. Then file the rakers. If the rakers are flush with the teeth two passes will set the depth.
I purchased 4 Stihl 2-1 in the following sizes So hopefully I should be good to go and I like them because they do add up.
1/4" = 1/8" file
3/8lp(picco) = 5/32" file
.325 = 3/16" file
3/8" = 13/64" . Stihl specs 13/64",
1/4" = 1/8" file
3/8lp(picco) = 5/32" file
.325 = 3/16" file
3/8" = 13/64" . Stihl specs 13/64",
Batt4Christ
ArboristSite Lurker
I’m a big fan of Stihl’s 2-in-one. Super-simple, gets the gullet correctly, and the drags too…. Practically foolproof.
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plus one for learning to hand file. It is a art form, and eventually you will learn how to atleast get a chain cutting again (not perfectly, but cutting).
Sharpening with a grinder is also a form of art. Watching what you are doing, and keep the wheel CLEAAN!!!
You can sharpen a chain in a few minutes, you can destroy it in about the same amount of time.
If you get a grinder, consider putting a reversing switch on it. Makes for a nicer cutter, but will shoot the sparks at YOU when running in reverse.
Sharpening with a grinder is also a form of art. Watching what you are doing, and keep the wheel CLEAAN!!!
You can sharpen a chain in a few minutes, you can destroy it in about the same amount of time.
If you get a grinder, consider putting a reversing switch on it. Makes for a nicer cutter, but will shoot the sparks at YOU when running in reverse.
Hand filed for many years, taking my chains to a shop once a year to even up the cutters. Then the guy at my shop seemed to get really burned out on the whole shop/dealer thing and would take two weeks or more to sharpen even one chain. I'd go in, he'd be smoking a cigarette and drinking coffee. He always wanted to chat, he could go on forever, never leaving the counter chair except for more coffee. I had to drive 40 miles each way to get to him. Of course, I had to go back in two weeks. Sometimes he still didn't have them done and I'd wait and chat while he did it.
Then I bought a Maxx from Baileys and it paid for itself in a couple years. Plus my time savings of not driving so far. And, I found that I kept my chains even sharper than when I hand-filed, because I could switch on the Maxx, do a couple chains in no time at the end of a cutting session and keep them ready to go next day. I even put a mark on the wall by the Maxx and kept count of the sharpenings to know when I'd paid for it by not going to the shop. Just for fun.
Yes, you can hand sharpen just fine, with practice, and files are inexpensive, but nowadays I use the Maxx about 90% of the time.
Then I bought a Maxx from Baileys and it paid for itself in a couple years. Plus my time savings of not driving so far. And, I found that I kept my chains even sharper than when I hand-filed, because I could switch on the Maxx, do a couple chains in no time at the end of a cutting session and keep them ready to go next day. I even put a mark on the wall by the Maxx and kept count of the sharpenings to know when I'd paid for it by not going to the shop. Just for fun.
Yes, you can hand sharpen just fine, with practice, and files are inexpensive, but nowadays I use the Maxx about 90% of the time.
Batt4Christ
ArboristSite Lurker
Heat actually softens, not hardens. That’s why a chain 5hats been too hot won’t stay sharp.
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that depends on the metal involved. My experience has shown that overheating a cutter hardens it to the point that a file won't touch it, and on top of that the edge will be awful, so it won't cut so good anyway. A dirty wheel turns into a friction heater, and it doesn't take long to glow a chainsaw cutter.
So, when you are done doing a decent job with the grinder, and have set the depth gauges, and all of that. Grab a nice file, and give everyone a stroke or two. Any cutter that you overheated will be harder, and the file will skip across it, not removing metal like it should. This is a good error check, and feedback to your technique.
On my list of things to learn is the square grinder, and that takes this to yet another level of complexity.
Depends.
The temperature that you need to heat steel to to anneal it, is quite high.
What is more common, is that the very fine edge gets overheated, and cools very fast, causing “grinder hardening“. Or an ‘air quench’. Similar to induction hardening.
A sharp file will skip over that like a buttered knife on glass. Fortunately, it is normally possible to grind through that layer, and return to a normal cutter.
Philbert
I find both methods have their place, especially if you aren't great at hand filing. It pays to persevere as there will be times you need to hand file, but it's easier if the chain is kept consistent by running it through the bench grinder every few sharpening's.
I find with care & good technique you can take the minimal amount of material off with a grinder. I employ a light "tapa...tapa...tapa..." method that results in the cutters never getting too hot to touch. Takes a little longer but I find the results are worth it.
In my opinion, the best sharpen you will get is by cleaning out the gullet & truing the cutters up with an accurate fixed angle device (ie bench grinder), then filing the hook to the correct round file profile, & finally setting the depth guages progressively. I usually do this over the course of 2 or 3 sharpenings
I find with care & good technique you can take the minimal amount of material off with a grinder. I employ a light "tapa...tapa...tapa..." method that results in the cutters never getting too hot to touch. Takes a little longer but I find the results are worth it.
In my opinion, the best sharpen you will get is by cleaning out the gullet & truing the cutters up with an accurate fixed angle device (ie bench grinder), then filing the hook to the correct round file profile, & finally setting the depth guages progressively. I usually do this over the course of 2 or 3 sharpenings
