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keep an eye on Lowes - just picked to the Troy Built 33 ton with the commercial Honda engine for $1500.00 - i talked them down it was 2,200.00 then it was on clearance for 1795 but i called and said if they would sell it for $1,500.00 i'd buy it - done deal

as a side note - mo matter where you buy one before you start it just make sure you give it a once over to make sure everything is tight. i noticed the axle nuts were hand tight and the hose clamps were a little lose - also make use you use pipe dope on all the hydraulic fittings

good luck
 
I just got the 27T from Lowes, LOVE it. I have had several splitters, some home made and can say this is a well built machine.
 
My speeco has been a gem, I have not looked at the new ones. Sounds like they have really went downhill. I know the toeplate is not solid steel like mine is.

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The toe plates are not solid anymore and the salesman really really pointed at the welding of the toe plate, the welds looked like there was no penetration, just lying on top.
Then where your splitter are boxed for the wedge to ride in, they now use a rounded piece welded on the I-beam on each side.
Sounds like most of the quality issues where from poor asembly at the selling store, nothing new there:confused:

Most of the wood I cut is under 20" rounds and I can manage the pretty easy. The larger rounds I just half or quarter witht the 046, it's faster than fighting them on the spliter. A load table would be nice, an outfeed would be nice if the wedge was on the back, but isn't much use behind a toe plate.
I will look into some of the other suggestions, thanks guys.
 
go TW

I work next to timberwolf and they are a true pro machine, I couldn't afford one at the time I bought my 22t husky, got a special deal and couldn't buy the components to build one for what I got it for. Now I have done most of my big rounds I'm changing the beam, new I beam, to an out feed type, wedge from TW and table. I'll save the old beam for the larger rounds,just swap the cyl and push wedge to it.
check out the beam on the husky and speeco it is not an I beam but welded flat plates.
 
Separate the ones from the fours.

If you're truly going to be a one man processing operation a splitter. regardless of the manufacturer must take a four way wedge and have out feed pans. The 4 way saves time. and the out feed table saves both time and your back. Without these two options you'll still process firewood but no where as efficiently. I personally would take a little slower cycle time in order to have both as they will more than make up for slower ram speed.

Take Care

:agree2:

It's funny how one would think vertical operation is easier on the body. I thought that way for the first few cords on mine, and couldn't go 20 minutes before pain starts. Back, shoulders, etc.
Horizantal mode, especially if you get the working height up a bit using car ramps under the whells, is vastly more body-friendly. Combined with any manner of table or whatever as a staging platform with drastically reduce fatigue as well. 4-way is a must have!
 
The toe plates are not solid anymore and the salesman really really pointed at the welding of the toe plate, the welds looked like there was no penetration, just lying on top.
Then where your splitter are boxed for the wedge to ride in, they now use a rounded piece welded on the I-beam on each side.
Sounds like most of the quality issues where from poor asembly at the selling store, nothing new there:confused:

Most of the wood I cut is under 20" rounds and I can manage the pretty easy. The larger rounds I just half or quarter witht the 046, it's faster than fighting them on the spliter. A load table would be nice, an outfeed would be nice if the wedge was on the back, but isn't much use behind a toe plate.
I will look into some of the other suggestions, thanks guys.
Really a shame they cheaped up an excellent splitter. Like everything else "You pay more and get less"
 
I have a 25 ton dueer. Not sure if they are made anymore. It works very well with a 5.5 hp b&g. My buddy has a speeco 10.5 hp 30 ton I beleive he got from Home depot. It works very well but it goes through alot of gas.

Neither one of us has had issues with ours. Mine is about 2 seconds slower on the return but thats not bad since I have 1/2 of the $$$invested than he does.
 
IMO DONT GET A SPEE CO. I bought a brand new 25 ton model last summer and I hate it. I realize it wasnt going to be a real professional model, the best on the market, but I had a tight budget. The wedge is not nearly tall enough. I split some stringy wood, and some rounds that are 30+ inches. The wedge isnt tall enough to go all the way through the round(split the round in half). I have had probably 10 logs that the splitter wouldnt spilt, had to cut in half with my chainsaw. The table isnt nearly big enough on the bottom. When you are splitting vertically, with big rounds, if enough of the wood isnt on the bottom part (log rest or log table) itll just pick the spitter up off the ground, it doesnt split the wood it just lifts the splitter. I have had taht problem many times especially if the rounds arent perfectly round (ie they taper). The cycle time isnt all that impressive. The briggs motor is pretty fuel thirsty and doesnt start well at all in the cold.
 
I used a 24 ton North star for 5 seasons and put around 3000 hours on it at work. It had the 8 hp briggs motor which lasted about 1800 hours before it burned a whole in the exhaust valve then we put a 8 hp honda on there. That thing split alot of wood from sun up to sun down 5 days a week. When we replaced it had about 3050 some hours on the meter. The pump was about worn out but still original and some of the fittings leaked about a quart a week other then that it still worked good. They bought another north star and it has about 1300 hours on it when I stopped by last month. I would buy a north star again in a heart beat if I was to get back into fire wood.
 
I have the North Star(northern tool brand) 30 ton with Honda 5.5hp. I really like the machine- had one small proplem and they took care of it right away. Bought mine during 10% off sale that happens in the Spring and in the Fall. Its h/v capable and you dont have to stand over the wheels when splitting horizontally, but you do have to use the front and rear stands. The 4 way works well on 12"-14" logs. It also has a idle control to save gas-
 
i have an American.

i will never buy another brand.my buddy bought the 22 ton from TSC a few years ago.nothing but problems.

never had a problem with my American.my buddy bought their big one and has had no problems either.
 
I bought an Iron and Oak 20ton fast cycle last Sept for $2000 out the door new at the dealer. Not much more expensive than what you are looking at. I bought mine after borrowing my neighbors for years. He has never had any problems with his splitter, the quality is there. I love the fast cycle, its like going from a 290 to a 440, until you try it you will never know what you are missing! Being able to switch from horizontal to vertical is also important, there is a time and place for both, don't limit yourself. Iron and Oak is the same as Brave, different places get different names? Good luck shopping!
Dok
 
:agree2:

It's funny how one would think vertical operation is easier on the body. I thought that way for the first few cords on mine, and couldn't go 20 minutes before pain starts. Back, shoulders, etc.
Horizantal mode, especially if you get the working height up a bit using car ramps under the whells, is vastly more body-friendly. Combined with any manner of table or whatever as a staging platform with drastically reduce fatigue as well. 4-way is a must have!

I second that!! I ended up raising my splitter by putting a new axle and larger wheels under it. Makes a world of difference. As a side benefit, I now have more ground clearance.

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My find on CL

Here is a picture of my find on CL! It has a single stage pump...so that may be the first item that I'll replace. I'm going to get a psi gauge and see where the weak point is. Right now it doesn't take much to stop it. Is the pump not putting out enough? I've only used it once since I got it home last weekend. I haven't checked the hydraulic fluid yet, that will be the first thing. It doesn't have a very big reserve.


The direction valve is built into the reserve tank. Some where in the past a machine lost it's identity and it's parts along with others became a splitter.


I see where the previous owner(s) helped it out a bit with a hammer on the wedge. It's been hit a few times. Not my idea of functioning splitter. However, it's a start considering that I was thinking about building one from scratch.
Dan



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Here is what I was thinking about building:

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I like the Supersplits, two things trouble me, I am accident prone and they are VERY fast. I am also leary if I get some Hedge or Elm, I think it could turn into a long day. Then I don't understand, nor do they show pics of what the differences are between the machines?:dizzy:

I looked at American, but am having trouble finding prices?

Back to Iron and Oak, like the cycle times on this: http://www.right-tool.com/22ton8hpfash.html

I like the operation and option of a four way on this, but the cycle times are SLOOOOOOOOOW:
http://www.right-tool.com/30ton8hplogs.html

Both would be with the Honda option.

I've got a couple more ideas I post links to in a bit.
 
So after all is said and done, what are the criteria I should be lloking for in a good splitter? Cycle time apparently is important. Is there minimum ton/pressure I should get? How about wedge height? Horse power from the motor? I'll be getting one in the spring and i'm starting to look now. So far I've seen the Troybuilts to have good reviews and years ago I used a friends Northern Hydraulics splitter and had zero complaints. One thing I noticed in a reviwe was the Troybuilt 33 ton was best overall splitter but the 27 ton was best for professional use. What give there? Wouldn't the 33 ton be better?:confused:
 
So after all is said and done, what are the criteria I should be lloking for in a good splitter? Cycle time apparently is important. Is there minimum ton/pressure I should get? How about wedge height? Horse power from the motor? I'll be getting one in the spring and i'm starting to look now. So far I've seen the Troybuilts to have good reviews and years ago I used a friends Northern Hydraulics splitter and had zero complaints. One thing I noticed in a reviwe was the Troybuilt 33 ton was best overall splitter but the 27 ton was best for professional use. What give there? Wouldn't the 33 ton be better?:confused:

In a nutshell, I want a good cycle time, enough power to deal with Hedge and Elm, very twisty wood, and apperantly under $3k.
I don't think I want under 9hp on a hyd. unit, and nothing less than a Honda.
The Yard Machines is identical to the Troybuilt. I would not discourage that purchase for a homeowner that isn't in a hurry. Most of the Oak I get I can split two to three rounds with the maul faster than the splitter can split one. I just cant do more than a face cord at a time without a break. (About 30-45min) What kills the Troybuilt is the time it takes to kick in to the second stage. It hits the log then you wait, then you wait some more, then wait, and about the time you are ready to just give up it starts moving.
I don't expect it to keep up with the maul, but as a few others have said, even 3 seconds makes a huge difference over an hour!
 
I have a Troy Bolt 27 ton and like the performance some days I have processed as much as four to four and a half ricks, that's sawing and splitting.
I have a three point tractor mount splitter minus a cylinder for 400.00, it includes the valve. I live in SW Missouri, it is a factory US made splitter, it was rated at 35 ton before the cylinder was stolen.
 
I was at the local cub cadet dealer the other day and noticed there was a new cub splitter there for sale. I did not ask the price but it looked like a good machine. Anyone else see one of these?
 

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