Making a road or parking on your biz property.

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treevet

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I am finally completely in my property I bought about 3 years ago. I had to wait for the project of paving the 3/4 dead end road and associated concrete entrance to be installed over a ditch runoff to get in. I spent one whole winter clearing it of invasives. Now I have put in a circular drive and turn in and back to parking. I did it with #2 stone and did tailgate spread then bobcat it flat. It has worked ok but I have so much more to do.

I have spent over $2k on the stone but saved about $7k not having to put in the concrete entrance myself which I was quoted prior to the road improvement going thru. I plan to put crushed limestone over the driveway stone. I looked into recycled concrete but have been told you will get flats with the rebar in it even tho they attempt to magnet it out. I have a ton more to do. It is a full acre of commercial property in the suburbs which is real hard to find that will put up with a tree svc. operation. I love it and we have a hawk that has taken up residence in it as it is not very developed around it.

Any opinions on the driveway/parking surface? Wonder if I can pave right over it later without excavating. Also worry it will be almost impossible to plow in winter as the stone will move with the plow.
 
I will get one but all it gonna show is a driveway made of rocks. Nothing uncommon there but just looking for some opinions.
 
I wanted to see to get an idea of the pitch, if any. The driveway to my property is steep, and prone to wash out. We've tried a lot of stone. But we may have to replace it with large stuff since we don't have the money to pave it.
 
what are millings? Wood?...


and Gorman the property is flat and mostly level. Get a pict tomorrow.

And RDAA...crushed recycled blacktop is great but you'd probably have to excavate to hardpan first, and I don't have the time or money now to do all that given how much space I want to get un mudded quickly.
 
Its either bite the bullet and pave or shoot yerself with a bullet cause you didn't.
 
what are millings? Wood?...


and Gorman the property is flat and mostly level. Get a pict tomorrow.

And RDAA...crushed recycled blacktop is great but you'd probably have to excavate to hardpan first, and I don't have the time or money now to do all that given how much space I want to get un mudded quickly.

I don't think its bad to start dumpng gravel now then just paving right over later. I think they do it all the time if there is enough gravel. The sides will just be high like Peabody's, I have dump chips along that drive to help. It will probably work out that over time you will be adding gravel til one day you just bring some one down to lay the paving and roll it.
 
It would be boggling the cost to pave everything I want to drive on and not get muddy. You should know having to sell your Dingo. Just got so many other places for the $ to go and first is a building. I think I can live with this for life after the crushed limestone over the 2".
 
It would be boggling the cost to pave everything I want to drive on and not get muddy. You should know having to sell your Dingo. Just got so many other places for the $ to go and first is a building. I think I can live with this for life after the crushed limestone over the 2".

I didn't have to sell it. I think besides getting into tree work that was the biggest mistake I ever made.
 
If its flat just keep adding 21a and pave it later. Millings can work really good but have to be spread and smoothed out nice or it'll just harden into however you laid it out. Guy I used to rent a yard from put that down a long road but it was wavy as hell and never got smoothed out, rough ride through there every day.
 
unrinsed gravel ground to 3/4 or so. put in water bars if it's steep it will pack and be as hard as concrete. we used this to build trails and roads in some preety freaking remote places in Alaska with swamp for a bottom. for our purpose we drop spruces on the left and right side peel em and pin them together run landscape fabric between them then back fill with with road base the the above mentioned gravel gravel. erosion is caused by runoff manage it and it's not a problem. our roads/trails last about 10 years in a rain forest/ snow enviroment before needing another refresh. we always go min 6" thick with the gravel. pack it well use water bars if it's steep and you can drive a dump truck on it and it will last.
 
unrinsed gravel ground to 3/4 or so. put in water bars if it's steep it will pack and be as hard as concrete. we used this to build trails and roads in some preety freaking remote places in Alaska with swamp for a bottom. for our purpose we drop spruces on the left and right side peel em and pin them together run landscape fabric between them then back fill with with road base the the above mentioned gravel gravel. erosion is caused by runoff manage it and it's not a problem. our roads/trails last about 10 years in a rain forest/ snow enviroment before needing another refresh. we always go min 6" thick with the gravel. pack it well use water bars if it's steep and you can drive a dump truck on it and it will last.

What's a water bar?
 

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