McCulloch Chain Saws

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First off,thanks for all the advice guys! I don't have any gas in the tank,so it eliminates the carb dumping gas endlessly into the cylinder.I found the reason why it was chipped - a bad condenser.I put another good condenser on & it had spark from the points.I cleaned & gapped the points,still wouldn't fire up.I've had saws with bad seals before,they still fired up ,but wouldn't run very good.As far as rebuilding the carb for a learning experience,I've already rebuilt at least 40 carbs,I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing at this point with carb rebuilding.As I said before,the saw is pristine.It still has paint on the cylinder fins & has NO paint loss anywhere.When I put fuel in the plug hole it's not enough to foul the plug,it's NOT like I'm filling the cylinder with fuel & then expecting it to fire up.This isn't my first saw that I'm working on,just my first 2-10I've got several Macs,(7-10,10-10,four 610's ,Timberbear,380,1-50,1-75,& Eager Beaver) so this isn't my first Mac either.I'm not a chainsaw virgin by any means.I've been cutting wood for over 45 yrs.now,been working on the saws for only a couple yrs.now because I started collecting them about 4 or 5 yrs.ago & I couldn't find anyone who was willing to work on them,so I said screw it,it isn't exactly rocket science,& started working on them myself. Now don't get me wrong guys,I don't profess to know everything there is to know about saws or Macs.I'm not a know-it-all either,but I have learned quite a bit in the last couple of yrs.,& I know that I have much more to learn.
As for the carb on the 2-10,it's not a bullfrog (I have another 2-10 for parts that has a bullfrog on it).I have a Walbro SDC as a carb on this saw.I'll put the original chip back in the saw,as it's a one wire chip.I can only reverse the polarity on a two wire chip.I'll see what happens since I fixed the bad crimp.
Ed
 
Great find Jethro (the 7-10A). I think it's as good a time as any to post a pic of my 3 macs. The 7-10A is awesome I was lucky enough to find one a couple of years ago in Melbourne Victoria.
View attachment 685801

Thanks macfinder and welcome aboard thats a nice collection there your 7-10 looks nice and used too. Hang around mate love to see more of them.

Edju, i had a similar situation with a couple saws, both with chips. Had all you did but no pop. Reversed the polarity of the chip and fired off. Tricky thing was that polarity was backwards on them. One was one way one was the other. Just a thought. Simple fix maybe.

Do the chipped saws run as good as the factory CDI saws Vinny?

Edju throw a running sdc on it and see what happens it mite just run if not its still gota be ignition trouble.

Random mac pic
20180921_175608.jpg
 
I don't have a running SDC to put on the 2-10,they took their own special model.Any other SDC's I have are on Homies,the carb probably wouldn't even bolt up,the linkage wouldn't work,etc.I haven't been out to the shop yet,been researching & looking for parts for other saws I'm working on.
Ed
 
I am kind of getting lost on this but did you say that you had good fire at the plug? Have you checked the gap between the flywheel and the coil? I had one of my PM6 give me a problem and it turned out when I used a drill to turn the engine over the fire was hit and miss but when I pulled the starter rope it looked alright. It wound up being dirty points.

I started putting the chip in all my saws when I started collecting a couple years ago. At that time I could take them out and cut with them for a while and everything would be fine, then the next day they would not start. It was the chip but I don't remember if I had fire or not. I don't think I did. Getting old and memory failing. I had all 10-10 and one PM55 at the time and I was removing the capacitor/condenser and putting the chip there. What I found was there was too much heat at that location and would burn the chip out. I got a 510 last year that the points and condenser were burned out and I took a chip and put it on the front of the case where there was less heat and I have had no problems with it.

While they were running on the chip the 10-10's and the PM55 . I done some testing and it has been a while back but seams like to me I found that a saw with the chip would fire at a lower RPM which helped it start and the fire seamed hotter. But because of the heat issue I felt that the reliability was not what I wanted. So other than the 510, which I am kind of using as a test I have stuck with points.

Brian
 
Thanks macfinder and welcome aboard thats a nice collection there your 7-10 looks nice and used too. Hang around mate love to see more of them.



Do the chipped saws run as good as the factory CDI saws Vinny?

Edju throw a running sdc on it and see what happens it mite just run if not its still gota be ignition trouble.

Random mac pic
View attachment 685842


Like the saws, like the car.

Brian
 
Like the saws, like the car.

Brian

He said he tried with out the chip an no luck eather had spark but no pop... something dont add up.

I never thought of the car in that pick. It's a rather rare now toyota trueno GTZ its the 4age with a roots blower from the factory goes very well 14psi makes about 10 at 2000rpm. Makes a 1600 go like a v8.. Funny little carPic_1120_183.jpg
 
Hey Poge you ever get that rather pritty sp81 of yours going?

On the back burner until I can get some other projects out of the way. Ignition problem of some kind. Had a chip when I got it..., along with a broken crank. Went back to points when I rebuilt it and think I need to revisit the gap and/or double check the coil itself to make sure it isn't actually an electronic coil fighting the points.

And Ed -- Have you checked the flywheel alignment on that 2-10?
 
He said he tried with out the chip an no luck eather had spark but no pop... something dont add up.

I never thought of the car in that pick. It's a rather rare now toyota trueno GTZ its the 4age with a roots blower from the factory goes very well 14psi makes about 10 at 2000rpm. Makes a 1600 go like a v8.. Funny little carView attachment 685856
I used to have a Toyota Supra with turbo. Another car I wished I had never gotten rid of. It was fast. In 1988 I bought a Porsche 944 Turbo. Also a fun car. I have a 1983 944 non turbo right now that I need to get back running. Not as fast as the turbo, but still fun to drive. If for some reason I rebuild the engine I will drop the compression and turbo it.

Brian
 
On the back burner until I can get some other projects out of the way. Ignition problem of some kind. Had a chip when I got it..., along with a broken crank. Went back to points when I rebuilt it and think I need to revisit the gap and/or double check the coil itself to make sure it isn't actually an electronic coil fighting the points.

And Ed -- Have you checked the flywheel alignment on that 2-10?

Well it will keep for another day.

I used to have a Toyota Supra with turbo. Another car I wished I had never gotten rid of. It was fast. In 1988 I bought a Porsche 944 Turbo. Also a fun car. I have a 1983 944 non turbo right now that I need to get back running. Not as fast as the turbo, but still fun to drive. If for some reason I rebuild the engine I will drop the compression and turbo it.

Brian
Nice Brian yea those supras are very nice cars I love boosted engines. Was the turbo Porsche quicker than the supra?
 
I'm pretty sure I set the flywheel gap at .012,I don't remember for sure.I can check that again too.It's just frustrating as hell because I can't figure that saw out.I got spark,I got compression,I add fuel to the plug hole,& even if the crank seals are bad,it should pop.I've been in touch with fossil,he's a pretty knowledgeable guy,we live a few hrs.apart by car.He's been very helpful to me.
Ed
 
I meant the flywheel keyway/key alignment for timing, not the air gap. And fwiw, I'm having the exact same problem with a small Husky. 135# compression, killer spark, flywheel key intact, won't even pop on prime down the plug hole with a new plug. I'm suspecting the coil somehow losing its timing at this point, but I also recently saw a vid of a guy having a similar problem who discovered a small crack in one of the flywheel magnets. It evidently somehow created an erratic/severe enough timing offset to keep the saw from firing. Replacing the flywheel cured the problem in his case.
 
I've got spider web cracks throughout the flywheel.Tim & I discussed this & he said it was from crappy casting.I've got 3 or 4 other 2-10's laying around that have flywheels on them.I checked the key way in the current saw I'm working on & it was intact.Changing the flywheel might just be it.Thanks Pogo!
Ed
 
First off,thanks for all the advice guys! I don't have any gas in the tank,so it eliminates the carb dumping gas endlessly into the cylinder.I found the reason why it was chipped - a bad condenser.I put another good condenser on & it had spark from the points.I cleaned & gapped the points,still wouldn't fire up.I've had saws with bad seals before,they still fired up ,but wouldn't run very good.As far as rebuilding the carb for a learning experience,I've already rebuilt at least 40 carbs,I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing at this point with carb rebuilding.As I said before,the saw is pristine.It still has paint on the cylinder fins & has NO paint loss anywhere.When I put fuel in the plug hole it's not enough to foul the plug,it's NOT like I'm filling the cylinder with fuel & then expecting it to fire up.This isn't my first saw that I'm working on,just my first 2-10I've got several Macs,(7-10,10-10,four 610's ,Timberbear,380,1-50,1-75,& Eager Beaver) so this isn't my first Mac either.I'm not a chainsaw virgin by any means.I've been cutting wood for over 45 yrs.now,been working on the saws for only a couple yrs.now because I started collecting them about 4 or 5 yrs.ago & I couldn't find anyone who was willing to work on them,so I said screw it,it isn't exactly rocket science,& started working on them myself. Now don't get me wrong guys,I don't profess to know everything there is to know about saws or Macs.I'm not a know-it-all either,but I have learned quite a bit in the last couple of yrs.,& I know that I have much more to learn.
As for the carb on the 2-10,it's not a bullfrog (I have another 2-10 for parts that has a bullfrog on it).I have a Walbro SDC as a carb on this saw.I'll put the original chip back in the saw,as it's a one wire chip.I can only reverse the polarity on a two wire chip.I'll see what happens since I fixed the bad crimp.
Ed

Probably stating something you have already tried, but if not, try another plug. Spark outside doesn’t necessarily mean spark inside. I believe Mark H was the first to bring this phenomenon to my attention and it cured my problem. Ron
 

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