Mobil MX2T vs Racing2T - Differences???

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davefr

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My favorite 2 cycle oil has been Mobil MX2T mixed about 40:1 with fresh premium gasoline.

It appears MX2T has vanished from the market but I now see a product called Racing 2T that appears to meet the same specs as MX2T.

Does anyone know if there are substantial performance differences between these two oils??
 
I race motocross (50hp 250cc two stroke and a 35hp 125cc two stroke) and MX2T or Yamalube 2R are always considered the top two oils for these bikes. Everyone I know thats into this stuff says the new Mobile one "Racing 2T" is the same as the MX2T only with coloring added (makes it easy to reassure one's self that the fuel does indeed have oil in it). If you can't find the Mobil stuff, I highly recomend the yamalube 2R - its available at any yamaha motorcycle dealer.

good luck
 
The only difference besides the color is that I could get the MX2T at Auto Zone, but all they seem to get now is the Mobil Racing 4T. I asked my wife to pick up some 2T while she was in town, and she came back with 4T. My old SUV is afraid of the stuff. If I try to make it swallow the 4T it might run away and hurt someone, like SUVs are prone to do. Needless to say, my wife now knows the difference between 2T and 4T, We've hidden away the 4T, and the S10 seems happy again.
 
I spoke with a Makita tech in Atlanta today and mentioned to him that when I am satisfied breaking in my 520i that I was going to eventually run Mobil synthetic Racing 2T at a 32:1 ratio. He said that I would ruin the saw and that I should stick with... I think he said, a good TCW3 oil at 50:1. He might have said TC-3. I think his recommendation was old school in any case.
The proprietor at a local shop that has been selling Dolmar for the past two years said that a number of users have had trouble using synthetic and had come back to a more traditional petroleum based oil. I asked him what he sold and he reached into a box and pulled out a small container of Torco Racing Oil...correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that a synthetic oil.
I have recently started using Mobil MX2T in a Shindaiwa B45 brush cutter and an Echo PB400E blower and am nothing but satisfied with the performance and improved idling of this equipment. When I am out of this little bottle of MX2T I have a container of Racing 2T waiting.
Here is an interesting read on the subject of 2 cycle oil :
http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm
 
Last edited:
Difference between MX2T & RACING 2T

bwalker said:
The only differance is the color nd the packaging.

Hi Ben:
Would you please telll me where you got that information. I called the Mobil tech service in both the US and Canada and neither of them could tell me the difference.
 
Mx2t & Racing 2t

Up Date:
I just received a response to an email that I sent to Mobil tech service asking the difference between Mobil MX2T and RACING 2T ::

--------------------------------------------------------------

<[email protected]>

"The products are identical with the Mobil1 Racing 2T having the dye in the formulation"
 
Thanks for the avlube tip Ben, we live in the boonies and its almost 200 miles to the nearest city of any size; and, none of the Auto Zone stores had the MX2T the last time we went in for supplies. Tom
 
I know this is a subject that has been beat to death, but after visisting the local Stihl dealership a while ago, this is what they had to say when I asked if the stihl mix was synthetic.

Stihl oil isn't synthetic. No synthetic oil should be run in any chainsaw. <me asks> why is that? They said that, and I have tried this on my own and it is indeed true, but what it means is questionable. The pores of the smaller cylinders are more pourous than most larger ATV/Bike cylinders. When you wipe a non synthetic oil ran cylinder down with a rag and let it set, it will be damp later on (overnight). This is from the oil seeping out of the pores. If you do the same to a cylinder that has synthetic ran in it, you will get no residue. Thier theroy is that the cylinder will be dry of oil apon startup and cause more premature cylinder, piston, ring and bearing wear.

Needless to say, I run what I run, and no you can't get out of me what ratio :)

Steve
 
Freakingstang said:
I know this is a subject that has been beat to death, but after visisting the local Stihl dealership a while ago, this is what they had to say when I asked if the stihl mix was synthetic.

Stihl oil isn't synthetic. No synthetic oil should be run in any chainsaw. <me asks> why is that? They said that, and I have tried this on my own and it is indeed true, but what it means is questionable. The pores of the smaller cylinders are more pourous than most larger ATV/Bike cylinders. When you wipe a non synthetic oil ran cylinder down with a rag and let it set, it will be damp later on (overnight). This is from the oil seeping out of the pores. If you do the same to a cylinder that has synthetic ran in it, you will get no residue. Thier theroy is that the cylinder will be dry of oil apon startup and cause more premature cylinder, piston, ring and bearing wear.

Needless to say, I run what I run, and no you can't get out of me what ratio :)

Steve
Have run full synthetic for years in my Pioneer, can't begin to kill the damn thing. Runs perfect. Took it apart this fall, looks clean as a whistle. Spark plug and muffler were removed and everything inspected and in perfect order. Saw is over 20 years old. Needless to say I run what I run.
 
Stihl oil isn't synthetic. No synthetic oil should be run in any chainsaw. why is that?

First off Stihl oil in the black bottle is partially synthetic. This can easily be verified by doing a MSDS search. It will not be long before all mix oils are partially synthetic. That is the future.

The pores of the smaller cylinders are more pourous than most larger ATV/Bike cylinders.
The coatings of Honda and Yamaha dirtbikes are nearly identical to a stihl or Husky chainsaw with a Mahle cylinder. mahle is also makes cylinders for Polaris snowmobiles and Honda is a Mahle licensee last time I checked. there may be some slight differances bewtween coatins used, but in essence they are all nearly identical.

They said that, and I have tried this on my own and it is indeed true, but what it means is questionable. When you wipe a non synthetic oil ran cylinder down with a rag and let it set, it will be damp later on (overnight). This is from the oil seeping out of the pores. If you do the same to a cylinder that has synthetic ran in it, you will get no residue. Thier theroy is that the cylinder will be dry of oil apon startup and cause more premature cylinder, piston, ring and bearing wear.
I do not know what your are seeing but one of the most common synthetic base oils(esters) has a polarity that makes metal attractive to it. in other words it want to stay attached to the surface of the cylinder instead of running off.
 
bwalker said:
First off Stihl oil in the black bottle is partially synthetic. This can easily be verified by doing a MSDS search. It will not be long before all mix oils are partially synthetic. That is the future.

Also I may add a little more info to this topic Husqvarna now has a new XP mix oil out that is a synthetic blend, this oil was developed due to higher operating temps and also higher RPM's the two-stroke engines are now producing. So I guess my take on this is, if was not good for their products they would not manufacture the synthetic blend nor reccomend it.
:rock: ON
ROBERT
 

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