More oil in the mix?

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i have always ran 50:1

Now im beggining to wonder if it is damaging listening to all these guys that run 32,and 40:1.I havent had any trouble but would be hopin not to.
 
Cut4fun said:
I just bought Klotz 2 stroke racing synthetic, 80% Techniplate with 20% Benol racing castor. I was going to switch to 32-1 from my norm of 40-1. What will that do to my carb set ups? If I didnt change the carb set ups for sometime, will they run richer or leaner with 32-1 and no carb adjustments from my 40-1 set up?

For the finer points of BS'ing, going from 40 : 1 to 32 : 1 is running a "leaner" effective AFR, as it is lowering the octane rating,,,,,,,, bye .625/10th of 1% (give or take a decimal point, I think that math is wrong?)

Your going from 3.2 oz. of oil to 4 oz in 128 oz's of gas, by all means tweak away, as a weather trend could change your tune, but the effect of .8 oz of oil is moot.

Edit: Just a numbers oddity, as 40:1 is 3.2 oz,,,and 32:1 is 4.0 oz
 
I may run the klotz at 40-1 in the first gallon of 93 gas. Just to see if I notice any changes in anything, Before going to 32-1. Just wondering and learning.
 
I Run 32:1 In All My Two Cycles And Knock On Wood I Have Never Toasted A Motor Yet. I Do Not Use Any Major Brand Chainsaw Oil. I Use Havoline And Valoline That I Purchase In Quarts. I Mix One Gallon At A Time With 93 Octane And Pour The Oil Into A Measuring Cup. This Has Worked Well For Me For Over Twenty Years And I See No Reason To Change Now. I Have Several Saws That I Got From A Friend Who Has A Tree Service. Funny Thing He Uses Only Stihl Brand Oil Mixed At 50:1 And I Cannot Convince Him To Change His Mix Ratio. Im Not Saying That The Oil Or The Mix Ratio Is His Problem But After Toasting 8 Saws In Two Years Im Not Going To Change To Find Out. Good Luck On What Ever You Decide. Rick!!!!!!
 
32/1 in everything. I have used Mobil Racing2T since it became avaible and the MX2T for a year before that....but I NEVER had an oil related problem in all the years that I used any old 2 stroke oil at 32/1
 
I think I'll start running 40:1 with the oil I have and when it's time to buy more, I'll look for a full synthetic.

thanks for the input,
Ian
 
In my old Craftsman, 32:1.
In my Stihl 310, 40:1.
In my Yamaha 40hp outboard (oil injected), I use the oil injection setup (I couldn't get a non-injected motor that year, or I would have!), but I also premix the gas at 100:1 ... and I watch the oil reservoir CLOSELY!
In my GM 350 inboard (310hp) I run Marvel Mystery Oil and/or Lucas Fuel System Additive at a ratio of approx. 400:1.
My tricycle squeaks. :jester:
 
ShoerFast said:
For the finer points of BS'ing, going from 40 : 1 to 32 : 1 is running a "leaner" effective AFR, as it is lowering the octane rating,,,,,,,, bye .625/10th of 1% (give or take a decimal point, I think that math is wrong?)

Your going from 3.2 oz. of oil to 4 oz in 128 oz's of gas, by all means tweak away, as a weather trend could change your tune, but the effect of .8 oz of oil is moot.

Edit: Just a numbers oddity, as 40:1 is 3.2 oz,,,and 32:1 is 4.0 oz
Increasing the oil concentration in your saw gas will very slightly lean the saw out. This leaning effect isnt related to octane though.
I might also add that the any change in octane from a increase in oil concentration is is differant from oil to oil. Some will actualy raise the octane of the mixed fuel.
I do not care for Klotz or castor bean oils in chainsaws unless they are for racing only.
I have ran lots of Klotz oil over the years in differant applications, but I know longer use the stuff.
 
bwalker said:
Increasing the oil concentration in your saw gas will very slightly lean the saw out. This leaning effect isnt related to octane though.
I might also add that the any change in octane from a increase in oil concentration is is differant from oil to oil. Some will actualy raise the octane of the mixed fuel.
I do not care for Klotz or castor bean oils in chainsaws unless they are for racing only.
I have ran lots of Klotz oil over the years in differant applications, but I know longer use the stuff.

You may have me on this?

Octane would maybe be raised if the mixed-gas would control the flame front, or burn slower because of the oil. (water will raise the O slightly) (but it would not burn as well, lowering the umpth) My point was, if the oil didn't burn, it is displacing some of the gas (leaner) and lean ratios do tend to be have the characteristics of a lower O , But an extremely moot point.

Burn qualities would change by approxametly 1% , going from 50:1 (at 2.6 + 128 oz) to 32:1 (at 4.0 + 128oz) or 1.4 oz per 128 .
 
bwalker said:
I have ran lots of Klotz oil over the years in differant applications, but I know longer use the stuff.


What is it that you don't like about it, Ben? And what DO you like? For a working saw.
 
ShoerFast said:
You may have me on this?

Octane would maybe be raised if the mixed-gas would control the flame front, or burn slower because of the oil. (water will raise the O slightly) (but it would not burn as well, lowering the umpth) My point was, if the oil didn't burn, it is displacing some of the gas (leaner) and lean ratios do tend to be have the characteristics of a lower O , But an extremely moot point.

Burn qualities would change by approxametly 1% , going from 50:1 (at 2.6 + 128 oz) to 32:1 (at 4.0 + 128oz) or 1.4 oz per 128 .
You have to be careful when talking about flame speed and octane level as they are not analagous. Take pro stock drag racing fuels for instance. They have some of the fastest flame speeds, yet also have the highest octane values. High flame speed actually decreases a engines octane requirment.
You also have to remember that when premix enters the engine most of the gasoline portion of the fuel/oil mix is vaporised causing the oil to be deposited in the lower end. very little unvaporised fuel/oil mix makes it to the combustion chamber and mush of what does is flash vaporised by the hot combustion chamber and piston.
Its also worth considering that almost all racing engines use very high oil ratios and having enough anti knock is always a issue in these highly stressed engines running on the edge.
 
BlueRidgeMark said:
What is it that you don't like about it, Ben? And what DO you like? For a working saw.
I ran it for years in my snowmobiles and had issues related to corrosion. This was with the snowmobile oil.
I ran techniplate in a street bike motor and found it to be pretty dirty.
I guess if I had to sum up the reason why I wouldnt use Klotz it would be because the performance just isnt there. Especially when there are many good oils on the market.
As for what oil I would reccomend. Mobil MX2T/racing 2R, Esso easy mix, Husky silver bottle,Yamaha 2R, citgo air cooled, and Echo powerblend are all top notch oils that I have tried and tested. there may be others, but it takes awhile for me to reccomend somehthing.
 
I bought a quart of Mobil 1 Racing 2T full synthetic today that I intend to use at 40:1. It's marketed primarily for 2 stroke motocross, but also says "protects Snomobiles and Chainsaws" in smaller type on the front label. I didn't even have to read the fine print on the back label to find it.

Ian
 
Haywire Haywood said:
I bought a quart of Mobil 1 Racing 2T full synthetic today that I intend to use at 40:1. It's marketed primarily for 2 stroke motocross, but also says "protects Snomobiles and Chainsaws" in smaller type on the front label. I didn't even have to read the fine print on the back label to find it.

Ian
Did it have dye in it, and how much was it?
 
bwalker said:
I ran it for years in my snowmobiles and had issues related to corrosion.
....
there may be others, but it takes awhile for me to reccomend somehthing.


Thanks for the info, Ben. I'm about out of mix, and have been thinking about what to use from here out. Been using Echo standard stuff. It might be okay, but I want better than just okay.
 
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BlueRidgeMark said:
Thanks for the info, Ben. I'm about out of mix, and have been thinking about what to use from here out. Been using Echo standard stuff. It might be okay, but I want better than just okay.
Any good oil will work fine, we all know that, and we're just here picking the littlest nit we can pick. So in that spirit, I'll throw out the problem with full synthetic oil. If you're going to store your saw for a bit, you'll need to add some petro oil so it doesn't rust. And if the fuel mix sits for a day or two, you want to agitate it real well before filling the tank, and then agitate your saw too, especially those new saws that don't vibrate much.
 
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