SawTroll
Information Collector
Freakingstang said:
The same bar length on a MS361 will save you another pound (+), and a Rollomatic E (not ES) some additional ounces....
MS 260 for removal?
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The same bar length on a MS361 will save you another pound (+), and a Rollomatic E (not ES) some additional ounces....
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Freakingstang said:you could...
1) run a smaller bar on the 365 (18-20")
2) put a 372 topend on the 365, as myself and many others have done and get a 361 or 357/359 to fill the 60cc range
3) do what you want to do
I have ran a couple of 365's for about 6 years now and they are great saws. they are not the greatest saw with a 28" bar, and a I relize you are cutting softwoods, but the 372 conversion would be better suited for the longer bar and a good midrange ground saw. I have climbed a few trees with my 365's. i made due with what I had.
4) sell me the 365 super cheap to help with the costs of a new smaller saw...
i like #4 the best..... lol
Yeah # 4 but let me have it instead,,,,
Just kidding,,, seems like to me the 18 or 20" bar W/full comp chisel would be the most ecomical way to go and a 10 or 8 inch shorter bar will make that 365 sing and you can ge the job done, but hey it yo money
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
musch said:Andy, did you just recommend a 346XP??
Well, kinda :deadhorse:
MTCInc
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks everyone for providing feedback. I guess I was not really super to the point on the original post and may have confused you with my reasoning for this saw.
Ok, my MAIN objective is to have a saw that has a bit more capacity then my 020 to bring up in the tree, but will not weigh a ton more (like my 365.... I think that saw weighs at least 6 lbs more?). This current project (not the only one) has three pine trees about 70' tall. They range from 22,24 and 28" DBH. Most of the tree needs to be rigged down, but the trunk sections can be dropped once they are at about 20' tall. So, I want a saw that can do this and not burn up my 020. I know that my 365 can do this no problem, the problem is me having to climb with it all day. I have noticed many of you do not do this for a living, but I am doing it every day, so any weight I can drop will be very appreciated. I do not do a lot of removals, I am mostly into large tree pruning/preservation, so that is why I am looking into help with chainsaw purchase. Keep in mind that weight is a key factor here, and that is why the 260 seems like a good fit. It may not be perfect, and I can always put an 18" bar on it later. I just wanted to know if this saw will work decent enough to get this first job done.
Now, what do you all think??
Thanks!
Ok, my MAIN objective is to have a saw that has a bit more capacity then my 020 to bring up in the tree, but will not weigh a ton more (like my 365.... I think that saw weighs at least 6 lbs more?). This current project (not the only one) has three pine trees about 70' tall. They range from 22,24 and 28" DBH. Most of the tree needs to be rigged down, but the trunk sections can be dropped once they are at about 20' tall. So, I want a saw that can do this and not burn up my 020. I know that my 365 can do this no problem, the problem is me having to climb with it all day. I have noticed many of you do not do this for a living, but I am doing it every day, so any weight I can drop will be very appreciated. I do not do a lot of removals, I am mostly into large tree pruning/preservation, so that is why I am looking into help with chainsaw purchase. Keep in mind that weight is a key factor here, and that is why the 260 seems like a good fit. It may not be perfect, and I can always put an 18" bar on it later. I just wanted to know if this saw will work decent enough to get this first job done.
Now, what do you all think??
Thanks!
fishhuntcutwood
Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
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Well, I still think you should think twice about a 20" on a 260. It'll work ya, and I'm a West Coast, long bar guy saying that. I climb with my 361 and an 18" and it's not a problem. A 20" would be managable too. If you're bent on buying a saw get th 361 over the 260. The 361 is like two pounds more than the 260, and you won't find a saw that's super light that'll pull a 20" like you need it to. Or live with the 365. That's just my take on it.
SawTroll
Information Collector
MTCInc said:
Not even close, the empty powerhead difference is about 3 lbs, or slightly less, depending on the exact MS260 version - the rest is really up to you (bars&chains + fluids).....
The 361 is less than 2 lbs heavier than most 260 versions (empty powerheads again).
The 28" bar on your 365 surely weight a lot more than a 18 or 20" German made Rollomatic E.
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Wilson_tree
ArboristSite Operative
MTCInc,
Last summer I was removing some good sized firs in Tahoe and bought an MS260 with 18 bar & chain. My reasoning was that a lighter, slightly more powerful saw would make the blocking down less tiring. What I found, was that the 260 with 18 was slower, so I ended up using more energy because every cut took longer. With the 18 inch bar & chain I also had to reposition more often, which used more energy. I like the saw for limbing and using on the ground, but it has never been back in a tree with me.
View attachment 42493
Last summer I was removing some good sized firs in Tahoe and bought an MS260 with 18 bar & chain. My reasoning was that a lighter, slightly more powerful saw would make the blocking down less tiring. What I found, was that the 260 with 18 was slower, so I ended up using more energy because every cut took longer. With the 18 inch bar & chain I also had to reposition more often, which used more energy. I like the saw for limbing and using on the ground, but it has never been back in a tree with me.
View attachment 42493
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is wisdom, how long do you want to be in the tree MTC? I have blocked down lots of trees with an 020 and then a 372. I use the 372 as the wood gets bigger and even though the wood is bigger I cut blocks faster (to a point), ain't no replacement for displacement. Its like bucking firewood, spend less time with a bigger, heavier saw that cuts faster than spending more time with a smaller, lighter saw that cuts slower. I figure just work harder for less time, less time on your spurs, less time on your whole body, more time to do something else. Each to his own, I like to get it done quick. And this rigging stuff down? Have you explained how much cheaper it is to just hammer it down, is there something priceless underneath it? Is there a really good reason? Just asking 'cause some people here like to leave no damage whatsoever, charging the customer way more of course, customers should get the option, a lot cheaper for a few bags of soil and some grass than a customer paying for lots of extra hours. If you do it all the time you can put all the blocks into the same spot and have your groundsman roll them away, making a wall so the others don't take off. Hardly ever really need to rig down blocks, waste of time and someone elses money.Wilson_tree said:
MTCInc
ArboristSite Lurker
SawTroll said:
I was referring to the weight of my 020.... There is no way that my 365 weighs in at 10 lbs.. that is the weight of the 260. I am thinking the weight of the 365 empty is somewhere around 13-14 lbs? I cannot find that info, but it feels pretty heavy (up in the tree, that is). Someone mentioned that the 28" husky bar is much heavier than a stihl bar... Is this true?
All very good points.. I think all of you are trying to save me some money here.. I appreciate it. Hmmm... maybe a smaller bar on the 365. Then, what is the next saw to fill the gap from the 20" 365 and my 36" 660?
I got money burning a hole in my pocket!
MTCInc
ArboristSite Lurker
clearance said:
I wish it could be just dropped, not roped down. The trees are on a hillside at a recreation center over tennis courts. We will speedline most of the material to the far end of the court with a hobbs on my square reciever. When we hit about twenty feet, I plan on butt tying the stick and droping it on the up side of the hill, then buck it up and move the rounds.
I dont agree with the thought of never having to rig down, wasting time and someones money. Here in the Bay Area, we have some of the most expensive real estate in the world. People spend millions (literally) on there landscapes, and they do NOT appreciate hacks sending tops down into those manicured gardens to get the tree down faster.
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
MTCInc said:
Don't know about the bar weights, can't help there. The true wieght of the 365, PM sawtroll, he has these thing nailed to an artform!!!
Yes, it may seem hard to understand, but we are trying to help you, I really don't think you will be happy with the 260 or 346. Maybe a 5100, but it's tough to beat a 200 in the tree!!!
What to buy
Now it gets fun!!! I have not run one, but everybody is raving about the Dolmar 7900. Weighs less, cost less then a 440, and out cuts a stock 460, something to think about!! The 372 is an AWSOME saw, and there seem to be favorable reviews of the 441. Those would be my sugestions in that range. I myself run the 046BB modded, but it will outrun you're 660, so get something lighter and enjoy it, I just got done running mine with the 32" on it for three hours, and I am beat!!! Lighter is better!!!Have fun, as you have just opened up another can of worms
Andy
SawTroll
Information Collector
MTCInc said:
I was referring to the difference vs the 260, as my post quite clearly said - I tought you were referring to that one also, but I was wrong...
The German made Rollomatic E is quite a bit lighter than the Oregon Pro-Lite, and of course a lot lighter than any solid bar with replacable tip, even when they are the same lenght.
Husky bars are mostly rebadged Oregons.
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clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Calling me a hack, boy? Listen up, rigging stuff down ain't rocket science, rigging huge pieces like some here do can be retarded though. Thats too bad you have to rig it all, you are going to be there a long time, have fun.MTCInc said:
MTCInc
ArboristSite Lurker
clearance said:
No, I am not calling you a hack. I am stating that there is a time and place for rigging down material. It is NOT rocket science, but sending tops down without rigging is even less so. I say the word hack because there are a lot of tree services around here that are only concerned about getting it done fast and are not worried about damage. Some think, hey, I am getting this big tree down in this tight space, I am entitled to break stuff and cause damage. Not true. You don't get away with charging $85 a man hour and drop stuff where it is not acceptable. As in pruning work, most clients seem to appreciate the clean job left behind rather then the quality work that was just done. I am convinced that most clients do not really understand that a quality job just took place, but they do understand that it was done without anything being broken. Thats a big plus in my book.. They will be a repeat client.
I will have fun, too. Especially at the end of the day when I give the client a fat bill for my time. A fat, honest bill.
Anyway, this is off topic. I have seen where this can go and I am not interested in going there.
MTCInc
ArboristSite Lurker
This is a follow up.... I did get the ms260 with a 20" bar on it.
This saw was excellent. I still am not sure why so many of you tried to talk me out of it. The lightness of it was key. Having it hang off my saddle all day almost felt like having my 200t on my side. It cut plenty fast for me through those pines and never bogged down. Yesterday, I had to do some tricky rigging on an Oak limb... again, this saw ruled! It was a horizontal limb, with no vertical tie in point. I was blindly doing under face cuts, and the lightness of the saw once again proved itself. The power was plenty, even going through 18" Oak.
Great in tree saw, even with a 20" bar on it! Glad I went through with this. The 365 has been grounded until I need bigger capacity.
If anyone else out there is thinking of this saw, get it. It is light, has plenty of power for mid size (14-18") wood in the tree, and is affordable.
This saw was excellent. I still am not sure why so many of you tried to talk me out of it. The lightness of it was key. Having it hang off my saddle all day almost felt like having my 200t on my side. It cut plenty fast for me through those pines and never bogged down. Yesterday, I had to do some tricky rigging on an Oak limb... again, this saw ruled! It was a horizontal limb, with no vertical tie in point. I was blindly doing under face cuts, and the lightness of the saw once again proved itself. The power was plenty, even going through 18" Oak.
Great in tree saw, even with a 20" bar on it! Glad I went through with this. The 365 has been grounded until I need bigger capacity.
If anyone else out there is thinking of this saw, get it. It is light, has plenty of power for mid size (14-18") wood in the tree, and is affordable.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Well, I would hate to run a MS260 with more than a 16" bar (.325x7), but thats just me........:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Great choice!
Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
.png "Love :heart:")
the 026/260 saws.260
I have a 260 with a 16 inch bar on it I'm happy with. I would like to run some of thses other saws to see what I am missing? I may buy a 5100 Dolar. Called a local dealer and they said $365. Sounds fair enough.
I have a 260 with a 16 inch bar on it I'm happy with. I would like to run some of thses other saws to see what I am missing? I may buy a 5100 Dolar. Called a local dealer and they said $365. Sounds fair enough.
