MS 260 for removal?

[jhellwig]

I have a 260 with 16" bar and less the 8 tanks through it and I am not very impressed with it so far. Not very much torque. All I do is buck firewood though. If I did climb trees I think that it would be good for that. Light and balanced.

 

[begleytree]

This is a follow up.... I did get the ms260 with a 20" bar on it.

This saw was excellent. I still am not sure why so many of you tried to talk me out of it. The lightness of it was key. Having it hang off my saddle all day almost felt like having my 200t on my side. It cut plenty fast for me through those pines and never bogged down. Yesterday, I had to do some tricky rigging on an Oak limb... again, this saw ruled! It was a horizontal limb, with no vertical tie in point. I was blindly doing under face cuts, and the lightness of the saw once again proved itself. The power was plenty, even going through 18" Oak.

Great in tree saw, even with a 20" bar on it! Glad I went through with this. The 365 has been grounded until I need bigger capacity.

If anyone else out there is thinking of this saw, get it. It is light, has plenty of power for mid size (14-18") wood in the tree, and is affordable.

well, here is your problem. you titled this thread as 260 for removal, which brings out all the part timers and firewood guys, so you got 3 pages of standing on the ground answers (except for a few posters who actually climb) and 1/2 the posts are made by people who don't even own a 260, but only have a spec sheet in their face. no world knowledge, and should have stayed out of it, not counting the fact that they are also gound standers, (read=non climbers) and are totally clueless as to your needs.

so, yup, the 260 is a great blocking saw in a tree. in a tree I would gladly give up some hp if it meant giving up a few pounds to pack up as well.
there's a difference between standing on the ground pushing to all hell on a 50cc saw with 20" bar, and standing on spurs in a tree cutting horizontally, and just letting the saw cut.
so, next time title it as climbing with 260 or something to make these types skip over your thread. I even allow 200T/192T threads to stay in commercial tree care, where the answers actually fit the question. There are a lot of guys here who climb with saws everyday, but with the gaggle in the chainsaw forum, most don't bother to answer questions there. The firewood types have their place here, but they should be no where near a climbing saw question. Ground cutting and in-tree cutting is as different as night and day.
-Ralph

 

[Timberhauler]

I guess we do what we gotta do.I have always used a 026/260 for blocking bigger wood down.I keep 18 inch bars on mine,and they get it done.As the wood gets bigger,I have no problem lugging my 440 up a tree.I would rather deal with the extra couple of pounds and get out of the tree faster.

 

[MTCInc]

well, here is your problem. you titled this thread as 260 for removal, which brings out all the part timers and firewood guys, so you got 3 pages of standing on the ground answers (except for a few posters who actually climb) and 1/2 the posts are made by people who don't even own a 260, but only have a spec sheet in their face. no world knowledge, and should have stayed out of it, not counting the fact that they are also gound standers, (read=non climbers) and are totally clueless as to your needs.

so, yup, the 260 is a great blocking saw in a tree. in a tree I would gladly give up some hp if it meant giving up a few pounds to pack up as well.
there's a difference between standing on the ground pushing to all hell on a 50cc saw with 20" bar, and standing on spurs in a tree cutting horizontally, and just letting the saw cut.
so, next time title it as climbing with 260 or something to make these types skip over your thread. I even allow 200T/192T threads to stay in commercial tree care, where the answers actually fit the question. There are a lot of guys here who climb with saws everyday, but with the gaggle in the chainsaw forum, most don't bother to answer questions there. The firewood types have their place here, but they should be no where near a climbing saw question. Ground cutting and in-tree cutting is as different as night and day.
-Ralph

Nice reply... I am glad that someone has finally understood me. I thought in my original post when I stated "in tree saw", that folks would understand that I meant climbing with it, not standing on the ground. But, you made a very good point. I did start to realize most guys replys where sounding like they did not think about having this hanging off a saddle for 6 hrs a day...

Anyway, thanks to all who replied. I will take the advice and go to another forum if I have future "professional" saw questions (climbing arborists).

 

[MTCInc]

New here? Oh ya, two posts. Welcome to AS.
John...

Uhhhh..... and your point John???

Like I said..... Why bother to post if you offer no help.

 

[treeclimber jul]

026 pro

Did you get the pro modal? I climb with a ms200t and if thats not big enough than the 026 pro goes up. I have a slightly modded muffler, 18" bar with .325 chain on the saw and it works great for my use. If you have to push real hard than something is wrong with the sharpness of the chain.

just my thoughts.