MS 270, 290, or 260 Pro??

[Wizz]

I need a replacement saw ('had' a Husqy 455R) for occasional Landowner use. I have an excellent Stihl dealer down the street that I like dealing with. We have mostly Oak trees and nothing 'huge' I'd be cutting (by arborist standards), bigger ~10" limbs mainly. I've narrowed down to 3 saws: 270, 290, and 260 Pro. I'm mainly concerned with long term reliability, ease of maint, and build quality...weight is no concern. I've searched but need more specific info.

Any suggestions on which saw and bar size should suit me best? Much appreciated!

 

[TreePointer]

What did you like/dislike about your 455?

What did you wish it did?

 

[Wizz]

Hi, I didn't like how finicky it ran (due to EPA standards on motor), even after run-in chain would not stay tight either...I suspected it was the tensioner as it had to be tightened very often (mult times per use), saw would run hot compared to others as well, hot re-starts were interesting, build quality was cheap in some aspects (choke lever, etc). Power was good on the 455...wouldn't want less cutting power. I just feel for the same price or a $100 more I could get a saw I'd be much happier with. Oh...I already know the dealer is going to suggest the 290...that's all the local Stihl dealers suggest for non-pro use around here, must be a money maker I figure.

 

[Brian13]

Welcome to AS! The 270 and 290 are designed for home owner use and will probably work fine. But the 260 is a pro level saw designed for daily use. My vote would be the 260, but anyone of them will probably work well for you. The 290 would be a side step from the 455, and the 260 is a step up in quality. Although not really familiar with the 270 I think it falls somewhere in between the two. I think as long as you have good dealer support you will be happy either way.

 

[AmericanLawn]

Of the three: 260 Pro

I was trying to make a similar decision back before Spring. I decided on the 260 Pro, got into the store, and changed my mind to the 361. It wasn't a lot more expensive but seemed like a lot more saw. The difference between a 'pro' level saw and anything I'd used previously (Poulan, Craftsman, Homelite) was noticeable with the first use. I remarked the rest of that day that I wished I had gotten a nicer Stihl years ago. I have used it commercially 20 +/- times in 2010 in my lawncare business. My only issues have involved learning the Stihl-specific controls, chain adjustments, and learning maintenance for regular use (all on me and not the saw). I had only used cheap saws around the house previously and had never put much regular mileage on one.

On here, there are a lot of people who work trees for a living that say they have a 260 in the mix. Of the three saws you listed I would definitely select the 260 given my experience with a nicer Stihl. For bar length, 16" sounds like it would cover what you described. 18" would not be crazy and would give you a little more capacity if a big tree fell. I run a 20" on my 361 and have cut down a couple sizeable trees without needing any more bar length.

With regular service and sharpening the 260 should be all the saw you'd ever need. If a local dealer still has a 361 in stock (not the EPA 'improved' 362), upgrading to it would be a nice early Christmas present to yourself. Get the dealer to show all the start-up procedures (cold and warm); go ahead and get bar oil and fuel stabilizer if you don't have it; and if you buy an orange carrying case get a file/handle that you can keep tucked on the top of the bar sleeve.

 

[bcorradi]

I haven't personally run the 455, but i don't think there is anything mechanically wrong with the husky that prevents you from keeping the chain tight. If your encountering this with the 455, you may very indeed encounter it with the stihl saws you mentioned.

If you really are cutting 10" or less oak limbs and want the most economical stihl saw I would opt for the 250. If you want to spend more money the other 270, 280, and 260 (highest price point) are good options.

As far as normal maintenance goes they are all the same (air filter, chain, fuel filter, carb, plug, etc.). If you getter deeper in maintenance the 026 is the easiest and least time consuming to change the p&c on, but the others are a lot easier to change the crank bearings on.

Any of the homeowner/midrange saws including the 455 you had will perform your task with little problem and little maintenance as long as you maintain it.

I'm personally very fond of the 260, but its at a much higher pricepoint than the rest of the others and isn't really needed if your talking economics.

 

[bowtechmadman]

If you want the same power/more power than the 455 your probably going to need to step up to 361 if your set on buying a Stihl. Nothing wrong with the other three you mentioned but they will at best have the same "power" as the 455. 260 is the best of the three but you won't outcut your 455 with it.

 

[SawTroll]

Welcome to AS! The 270 and 290 are designed for home owner use and will probably work fine. But the 260 is a pro level saw designed for daily use. My vote would be the 260, but anyone of them will probably work well for you. The 290 would be a side step from the 455, and the 260 is a step up in quality. Although not really familiar with the 270 I think it falls somewhere in between the two. I think as long as you have good dealer support you will be happy either way.

I think you got that right!

The only thing I will add is that the US version of the 260 has the least power of all the models mentioned (except the 250), at least "on paper". On the flip side it is a lot lighter, and better built saw.

The bottom line is that Stihl doesn't really have any really good options in the 50cc+ class at the moment! :jawdrop:

 

[SkippyKtm]

Hi, I didn't like how finicky it ran (due to EPA standards on motor), even after run-in chain would not stay tight either...I suspected it was the tensioner as it had to be tightened very often (mult times per use), saw would run hot compared to others as well, hot re-starts were interesting, build quality was cheap in some aspects (choke lever, etc). Power was good on the 455...wouldn't want less cutting power. I just feel for the same price or a $100 more I could get a saw I'd be much happier with.

Sounds to me like you're not tightening the bar nuts properly and relying on the tensioner to keep the chain tight.

bcorradi I haven't personally run the 455, but i don't think there is anything mechanically wrong with the husky that prevents you from keeping the chain tight. If your encountering this with the 455, you may very indeed encounter it with the stihl saws you mentioned.

:agree2:

Sawtroll The only thing I will add is that the US version of the 260 has the least power of all the models mentioned (except the 250), at least "on paper". On the flip side it is a lot lighter, and better built saw.

The bottom line is that Stihl doesn't really have any really good options in the 50cc+ class at the moment!

It sounds like you should seriously consider a 346xp.

 

[2000ssm6]

Sounds like the 455 needs some attention, like tuning and a good chain. Most of the chain that comes on them from the box stores is junk. I'd try a loop of Stihl RSC on it.

If you are set on getting a Stihl and have 10" wood to cut, the 260 would be the cat's meow. Great saw and very light. Once you get up to 16"+, you will want more than 50cc. The 290s are great saws too but will have the same power as your 455, built almost the same also. The 361 would be a better all around saw and can handle a 20" b&c easy. If he has any NOS, check them out. The 362 has replaced it and has a little more power.

 

[7sleeper]

I would leave out the 290 because for more or less the same weight you could get a 391 which cuts as fast as the 362. That is at least what Thall(a well respected member & Stihl dealer here) says. Since you are a home owner forget the weight and rebuild discussion. It is sensless! Thall and others have shown in multiple threads that the clamshell design is just as quick to repair as the split case if you know what you are doing. Many others have described in multiple threads that they use the home owner league profesionally and are totally happy with them. The price difference, at least here in Austria is >250€/>300$. You can get a lot of chains, 2 stroke oil and gas for that.

Don't misunderstand me, I also am a homeowner and have 2 pro and one homeowner saw. But I only have them since I got them used or at such a discount that they were cheaper than the homeowner model. I just don't believe in the line that used to be popular here "the Stihl 361 is a holy tool, it cures cancer, never needs to be refilled or sharped and who holds it is enlightend to higher .....".

I understand you are having problems with your 455. The chaintensioner is not working to your satisfaction. Is it a new chain? They tend to lengthen in the beginning. The recomondation of Stihl chain is great. They are pre stretched at the factory.

In your user scenario, a farmer/mid range chainsaw, from any of the major players (Stihl, Husqvarna, Solo, Dolmar/Makita, Hitachi/Tanaka, Echo, Efco/Oleo Mac) would make you happy.

Good luck,

7

 

[SawTroll]

455/460

Sounds to me like you're not tightening the bar nuts properly and relying on the tensioner to keep the chain tight.

......

Came to think of something, is the saw one of those with the tool-less chain tensioner?

Another thing; those choke/start/stop lever and knob is a very well functioning system, much more convenient than the Stihl solution, and holds up well. Of course you have to know how to use them properly.

 

[SawTroll]

...
It sounds like you should seriously consider a 346xp.

That surely would be the best option in the 50cc class, and it doesn
't cost much more than a 260 in the US, if at all......

 

[SkippyKtm]

That surely would be the best option in the 50cc class, and it doesn
't cost much more than a 260 in the US, if at all......

Sounds to me that the op Is basing his opinion of the entire line of Husky saws based solely on his experience with his 455.

 

[SawTroll]

Yes, but it could of course be a dealer issue as well?????

 

[SkippyKtm]

Yes, but it could of course be a dealer issue as well?????

Dealer? He may have bought it from a big box store, thats the problem with selling 'em that way- no customer training or service of any kind.

 

[MacLaren]

270

IMO, I would go with the 270. It's about $100 less than the 260pro and its basically a darn pro saw. :chainsawguy:

 

[Wizz]

Sounds to me that the op Is basing his opinion of the entire line of Husky saws based solely on his experience with his 455.

I actually never stated an opinion on Huskys one way or the other. The chain will not stay tight even with 30+ ft lbs of torque on the nuts...and chains don't stretch enough to have to be tightened mult times per use every single time you use it. I also have almost no dealer support for Husky in my area, just box stores, the one dealer for Husky in my area looks like a junkyard to be honest. I repair/rebuild all my own motors (4 stroke, 2 stroke, etc) so ease of maint is a must...can't remember the last time I hired out anything.

Thanks kindly for all the suggestions, please keep them coming!...

 

[Brian13]

I actually never stated an opinion on Huskys one way or the other. The chain will not stay tight even with 30+ ft lbs of torque on the nuts...and chains don't stretch enough to have to be tightened mult times per use every single time you use it. I also have almost no dealer support for Husky in my area, just box stores, the one dealer for Husky in my area looks like a junkyard to be honest. I repair/rebuild all my own motors (4 stroke, 2 stroke, etc) so ease of maint is a must...can't remember the last time I hired out anything.

Thanks kindly for all the suggestions, please keep them coming!...

That being the case any of those will work, as long as they will handle the wood you are cutting. That will be the most important factor. For maintenance and rebuilding both pro and homeowner have pro's and con;s, but neither are impossible. With all the rebuild threads already posted any questions you could have are already answered or at the very least can be quickly answered. There really is no right answer to your question, just a lot of opinions, all of witch are valid. So my best advice is evaluate the size wood you are cutting, go with the best dealer support, and then find the one that feels best in your hands that you feel comfortable using. Just my .02.

 

[justtools]

I think you got that right!

The only thing I will add is that the US version of the 260 has the least power of all the models mentioned (except the 250), at least "on paper". On the flip side it is a lot lighter, and better built saw.

The bottom line is that Stihl doesn't't really have any really good options in the 50cc+ class at the moment! :jawdrop:

Now wait a minute, The 026/ms260 have made a lot of guys a lot of money. They have been dropped, abused, poorly maintained, etc. And they still start, run, cut and come back for more. I have a 346 and a 260. The 346 has a little more power but until it has been out there in the field for 25 years as trouble free as the 026. It will still ride in the BACK of the bus. The 260 is a fine choice for his needs. The biggest reason Stihl has not updated this saw for years is it wasn't broken. If the OP main concern is starting, using and not working on the saw before each use 5 to 10 years down the road. The 260 is the only choice. The price will be long forgotten When you are still using the saw in 5 years. On a side note This is a great 50cc saw, If you need something larger down the road buy a 70cc saw.