I don't think so. If so, I don't want it. I believe the 4000 is the strato saw in that size.
MS180 vs PS-401 vs G3800AVS
- Thread starter blsnelling
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I don't think so. If so, I don't want it. I believe the 4000 is the strato saw in that size.
UnckieBub
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello Folks...
Long time reader here that just picked up a Maktia (Dolmar) 401. Read alot about it being a older design but well built. Stihl's for what I do their price was way out there for the same size saw. So I opted for this one. Got it new in the box for $239.
Looking forward in operating this saw.
Any advice on how to break it in or if I should mod it???
I am just a home owner that cuts wood once in a while but heard the exhaust mod was worth doing. Anyone have pics on how to do this??
Also I am thinking about using AMSOIL or Klotz 50/1 mix to run it on.
All advice is welcome..
Thanks in advance...
Steve in Michigan
Long time reader here that just picked up a Maktia (Dolmar) 401. Read alot about it being a older design but well built. Stihl's for what I do their price was way out there for the same size saw. So I opted for this one. Got it new in the box for $239.
Looking forward in operating this saw.
Any advice on how to break it in or if I should mod it???
I am just a home owner that cuts wood once in a while but heard the exhaust mod was worth doing. Anyone have pics on how to do this??
Also I am thinking about using AMSOIL or Klotz 50/1 mix to run it on.
All advice is welcome..
Thanks in advance...
Steve in Michigan
Welcome to the forum. Either oil will be fine. First of all make sure the carb is tuned to perform properly. No way could mine be tuned until the limiting tabs were removed from the caps. The L needle was WAY lean and it wouldn't rev up at all hardly. All it wanted to do was die when you hit the throttle. If yours does this you need to turn the L needle counter clockwise until it runs properly. I say fuel it up and go use it. If you have the time, you might want to let it idle with a few blips of the throttle until the cylinder is warm and then let it cool. This isn't mandatory though. Enjoy your new saw.
UnckieBub
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the tips...
I'll keep that in mind about the carb set. Also I was think about what you mentioned on the break in first fire.
Just seems the right thing to do on a new engine.
Again looking forward in firing it up. Which will be tomorrow.
Still open for any more advice which includes the exhaust mod.
Thanks again:greenchainsaw:
UnckieBub
ArboristSite Lurker
Oh one more thing..
Even though I been reading since 2005
Thanks for the invite and having us.
This is a great site...
Even though I been reading since 2005
Thanks for the invite and having us.
This is a great site...
woodchuck361
ArboristSite Guru
My money is on the ported 401. It already has more h.p. in stock v.s. stock form then the 180 and is a larger cc motor so I think there is Way more potential there. Have you weighted them to see if the manufactures lied? I have never held the 401, don't know if it is larger then the 180 but if its close and handles well I would run it. As for the rpm f the 401 I think you will pick up plenty more with one of your fine port jobs. Thanks for the link (wink,wink) 
Javelin
Addicted to ArboristSite
I like the 401 dolmar but have you looked at the 420?
When talking anything RedMax as far as having a strato engine... Any models with a Z in the model of the machine are strato motors. No Z no strato. G3800AVS no strato GZ4000AVS strato.
I think Brad looked at the published weight and then quit looking. If you're going to carry a 10+ lb powerhead, you may as well have a PS-5100s. My Dolmar dealer tells me the PS-420 is a more modern, smoother running saw, but I can't get past the weight. It's certainly better looking than a 401.
Javelin
Addicted to ArboristSite
Take a closer look at the 420 the weight is under 10lbs more like 9 and it is strong!
You sure about that? Dolmar claims 10.6 for the 420 and 11.2 for the 5100s.
http://www.dolmarpowerproducts.com/productcatalog/product/5143/index.html
http://www.dolmarpowerproducts.com/productcatalog/product/5143/index.html
Javelin
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes go to Dolmarusa.com and go to new products on the front page it shows the 420 at 9.7lbs. I know if you hold them side by side it fells less than that!
Then go to products and ps 420.
http://www.dolmarpowerproducts.com/productcatalog/product/5143/index.html
Javelin
Addicted to ArboristSite
I quess I will have to weigh one tomorrow!
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Well.... Mine will last for a few thousand hours... Yours? well... you can have fun with it at a few GTG...:greenchainsaw:
Erick
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well I told Brad earlier this week I would get some pics for him….. this looks like the perfect place to post them.
First let me say you guys know I pretty much bleed orange and white, but I think you also know I call’em like I see’em.
For those of you bashing the little Red Max let me say up front it has both Stihl and Husky beat hands down in the class of saws we’re talking about here. Sure both Stihl and Husky build better faster saws in this size range but at over twice the price. The only real competition at this price range is the Dolmar 401. I’ve run all the saws mentioned here (except the 420) and I’ve also had them all apart on the bench. If money is no object by all means get the Stihl, the MS200 is hands down top of the line in construction, performance, and durability. At the $250.00ish range there are only two real choices, the Dolmar 401 and the Red Max 3800. For me it all depends on what you want to do with the saw?? If your gonna pick a saw to run pretty much stock I’d say pick the Red Max… quad port design, pro style oiler, excellent air filter for a saw in this range, fully adjustable carb, takes well to a muffler mod, with a few other minor tweaks it will flat haul the mail. The major draw back to the Red Max comes when you want to do any real port work to it. The design of the intake and exhaust castings pretty much limits what you can do with the ports. The casting walls are pretty thin and if you were to do any real grinding on it you will find that you soon run out of aluminum.
If your gonna choose a saw to port I say pick the Dolmar, less plastic, a little better case construction (IMO), and more meat in the port castings to let you do some real grinding. The drawbacks to the Dolmar are the Single transfers, a little cheesier air filter, and the oil pump set up.
Both saws are gonna be pretty lean from the factory and the first thing anybody would want to do is lose the limiter caps and properly adjust the carburetor. The second thing on both saws is to open up the muffler. If you quit here the two are gonna be pretty close to one another with the edge going to the Red Max…. it just depends what you want to do from there as to which saw would best suit you.
I think when all is said and done the Dolmar will be the faster saw when properly ported.
Sorry Brad the batteries went dead in the camera before I could get you any pics of the Red Max cylinder. I’ll try to get you some pics so you can see what I’m talking about on the castings Monday.
Now for the pics.... Enjoy!
The Red Max G3800AVS
First let me say you guys know I pretty much bleed orange and white, but I think you also know I call’em like I see’em.
For those of you bashing the little Red Max let me say up front it has both Stihl and Husky beat hands down in the class of saws we’re talking about here. Sure both Stihl and Husky build better faster saws in this size range but at over twice the price. The only real competition at this price range is the Dolmar 401. I’ve run all the saws mentioned here (except the 420) and I’ve also had them all apart on the bench. If money is no object by all means get the Stihl, the MS200 is hands down top of the line in construction, performance, and durability. At the $250.00ish range there are only two real choices, the Dolmar 401 and the Red Max 3800. For me it all depends on what you want to do with the saw?? If your gonna pick a saw to run pretty much stock I’d say pick the Red Max… quad port design, pro style oiler, excellent air filter for a saw in this range, fully adjustable carb, takes well to a muffler mod, with a few other minor tweaks it will flat haul the mail. The major draw back to the Red Max comes when you want to do any real port work to it. The design of the intake and exhaust castings pretty much limits what you can do with the ports. The casting walls are pretty thin and if you were to do any real grinding on it you will find that you soon run out of aluminum.
If your gonna choose a saw to port I say pick the Dolmar, less plastic, a little better case construction (IMO), and more meat in the port castings to let you do some real grinding. The drawbacks to the Dolmar are the Single transfers, a little cheesier air filter, and the oil pump set up.
Both saws are gonna be pretty lean from the factory and the first thing anybody would want to do is lose the limiter caps and properly adjust the carburetor. The second thing on both saws is to open up the muffler. If you quit here the two are gonna be pretty close to one another with the edge going to the Red Max…. it just depends what you want to do from there as to which saw would best suit you.
I think when all is said and done the Dolmar will be the faster saw when properly ported.
Sorry Brad the batteries went dead in the camera before I could get you any pics of the Red Max cylinder. I’ll try to get you some pics so you can see what I’m talking about on the castings Monday.
Now for the pics.... Enjoy!
The Red Max G3800AVS
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Erick
Addicted to ArboristSite
A few other shots for those who are interested.
Oooops.... Top secret photos of the little hot rod.
Oooops.... Top secret photos of the little hot rod.
Erick, I was hoping you'd poke your nose in here since I knew you had some experience with these saws. A very insightful post. I'm guessing you have ported the 3800. Have you ported a 401? And if so, how much stonger was it? BTW, beautiful pictures!
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Erick
Addicted to ArboristSite
That rod is way more substantial than the one found in the MS180. It is nothing more than a flat piece of steel with a hole in both ends. That 3800 rod looks to be a forged piece similiar to those found in other pro saws.
