Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
Just a thought. How do you think that combo would run as a limbing saw? (under 8" hardwood)
Ian
Ian
MS361, 16" bar, 325 NK chain, 9 pin rim.
- Thread starter Haywire Haywood
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Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Wonderfully... but I'd use 3/8 chain...
Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think it's great!.........I used mine today, 18" BC 9T Stihl .325 RSC.
It pull's the full 18" in White Oak coming and going.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I believe that would work very well, but I suspect that Oregon LP and Stihl RSC would be even better on that saw - and 3/8x8 with RSC probably would be the best.....:biggrinbounce2: :chainsawguy:
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Bowtie
Gearhead
I was at the dealer today as they had a saw cutting contest. For the house class we all used a 361 with 20 inch bar and rsc 3/8. The wood was a 15 inch telephone pole, kinda odd. I placed 3rd of about 25 people. I used my 441 in the open class, and was in second to an older 044 when these guys brought in 2 660's. I got my butt handed to me. lol Anyway, not trying to derail the thread, I was impressed with the feel and performance of the 361. I went in and asked about a 9T rim for my 441 and/or my 034. They said they were never made. Im not real impressed with this dealer, and that didnt help.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Well, that dealer is full of ????, or just uninformed.....:chainsawguy:
What's up Ian. I'm curious why you ask since you just sold yours? Curious minds demand answers
Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
Nothing sinister, was just wondering how it would do with smaller chain and bigger rims for a limbing saw.
Ian
Ian
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Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
I did a little playing today, I still like the 9T .325 RSC on the 361
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
I did a little playing today, I still like the 9T .325 RSC on the 361
Nice Pic T-T! Would've made a nice promo photo w/o that shadow over the big 'uns. Looks like you needed to cut one more...........
Me to. .325Nk just would not hold up for me and I trashed it pretty quick.
oldsaw
"Been There, Milled That"
I just don't like .325 chain on a saw that can pull 3/8ths. The biggest saw I have run it on is Dad's 028. Told him he should swap it over, he has 3/8" on both his other saws, but he's got too many chains now to do it.
I'm trying to talk him out of his Dolmar 115, but he still likes it.
Mark
I'm trying to talk him out of his Dolmar 115, but he still likes it.
Mark
SawTroll
Information Collector
I would take a 115 any day over an 028.....
SawTroll
Information Collector
95VP is outclassed by the 21LP on my 50cc 346xpg, so I doubt it will perform too well on the MS361......
.....and Oregon doesn't recommend larger sprockets than 7-pin with the 95VP.
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ShoerFast
Tree Freak
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I'm with you here,,,
It just seems to close to 3/8th to begin with that it just seems to complicate things with an extra pitch chain.
It seems to make more smarts to tailor the DG's with a 8 pin sprocket and reduce some of the extra wear-n-tear on the bar with a slower chain that cuts just as fast.
Just as a from the hip example, no real facts on the .325 pitch, but I would bet that my 361 with an 8pin 3/8th on a 16" bar and .030 - .040 off the DG's would cut just as fast as a .325 pitch 9pin and .025 off,,,,,,,,, smoothness in a cut is not an issue with that saw.
Danger Dan
ArboristSite Guru
I've got a 9 pin, .325 RS w/16" bar on my 361, (off my 026). Cut up a couple of 15-16" cherry trees the other day...worked great, but I would stick with the 026 for limbing. The 361 is a bit heavier, especially noticeable if your working for extended periods. 
opcorn:
opcorn:
SawTroll
Information Collector
I've got a 9 pin, .325 RS w/16" bar on my 361, (off my 026). Cut up a couple of 15-16" cherry trees the other day...worked great, but I would stick with the 026 for limbing. The 361 is a bit heavier, especially noticeable if your working for extended periods.
I actually prefere the 361 for limbing the lower parts of my mature birches, often all of them as well, and use a 15" bar, 3/8x8, and RSC. The "limbs" can be pretty large, and I mostly buck to transport length in the same operation. I prefere the 15" to the 18", even though it means that some "over-bucking" is needed.
For smaller trees, I use a smaller saw......
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Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
To me it's like cutting any thing else.....Steel, wood, the thinner and
harder the martial, use more smaller cutters per inch and less pressure.
Wider softer martial, bigger cutters, less cutters per inch and more pressure.
Think about a hack saw and cutting 1/4" or 4" wide stock, are you going
to use the same blade? Or hand saw, are you going to use the same
saw to cut trim work that you used to cross cut that 2X6?
Not trying to change any bodys mind. Just what I like......your mileage my vary
harder the martial, use more smaller cutters per inch and less pressure.
Wider softer martial, bigger cutters, less cutters per inch and more pressure.
Think about a hack saw and cutting 1/4" or 4" wide stock, are you going
to use the same blade? Or hand saw, are you going to use the same
saw to cut trim work that you used to cross cut that 2X6?
Not trying to change any bodys mind. Just what I like......your mileage my vary
Austin1
Addicted to ArboristSite
You make a very good point here Since I cut mostly pine, spruce and poplar I like 3/8 or .404, for the odd big one and use in my big saws.But and I mean But I do like to be outdoors in really cold weather and find Frozen wood to changes the rules a bit but that only applies to my small saws the big ones don't care.To me it's like cutting any thing else.....Steel, wood, the thinner and
harder the martial, use more smaller cutters per inch and less pressure.
Wider softer martial, bigger cutters, less cutters per inch and more pressure.
Think about a hack saw and cutting 1/4" or 4" wide stock, are you going
to use the same blade? Or hand saw, are you going to use the same
saw to cut trim work that you used to cross cut that 2X6?
Not trying to change any bodys mind. Just what I like......your mileage my vary
