My splitter build

[Mac88]

I was just there and it looks like you are correct. Is there more to this than I am seeing? What are you suggesting? If you can get them that close to perfectly lined up what is the point of having the coupling?

I'm not so naive to think that I can get it within a 100th of an inch but what will happen? They claim fail safe and will still function without any rubber elastomer. I'll look for an adapter after I figure out what I have to bolt to and see if anything is available.

The coupling serves several purposes, among them ease of assembly and vibration dampening. Imaging trying to install a solid coupling between the two shafts in the limited space available. Yes, the coupling will function without the spider (fail-safe), but it will beat itself to death if continuously run that way. You can certainly build your own engine/pump mount, but to prevent unexpected failure of the coupling, engine or pump bearing failure or whatever, the mount must be built to pretty close tolerances. I'd be curious to know if your engine has a place to mount an adapter separate from the standard base mounting holes.

 

[Rattler05.5]

I'd be curious to know if your engine has a place to mount an adapter separate from the standard base mounting holes.

I doubt it. This seems to be the reason they aren't used as often as horizontal engines.
I see your point about solid coupling the two together. I will let you all know what I go with when I get that far!
Thanks for the insight

 

[Mac88]

I doubt it. This seems to be the reason they aren't used as often as horizontal engines.
I see your point about solid coupling the two together. I will let you all know what I go with when I get that far!
Thanks for the insight

No problem. I'm sure it's do-able, since they obviously make splitters with vertical shaft engines. My guess is that the pump mount is incorporated into the engine mount or is bolted to the engine using the engine mount bolt pattern. I've never looked an one so I can't really say. My old splitter uses a dump truck hydraulic unit, belt driven (originally pto driven off the transmission), so there's no mechanical connection between the engine and pump other than the drive belt. I'm sure you'll come up with a solution.

 

[Patrick62]

put the specs somewhere else

I have built engine/pump adapters bunches of times. I can guarantee that I ain't even close to perfect. You can cut the "legs" to the same length, make the plates for each side. That gets things close enough to parallel. Then hose clamp the coupler together and tack weld the legs. Nothing to it.

 

[Mac88]

I have built engine/pump adapters bunches of times. I can guarantee that I ain't even close to perfect. You can cut the "legs" to the same length, make the plates for each side. That gets things close enough to parallel. Then hose clamp the coupler together and tack weld the legs. Nothing to it.

Hey, if that works for you, who am I to argue? Go for it.

 

[jags]

Use a pipe clamp to keep the two pieces (and spider) aligned for the lovejoy.

Not the best pics of the mount but you can see it:
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/194745.htm

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Pull up the specs on the Lovejoy site. As I recall, the running tolerance on those couplings is something like .01" maximum shaft misalignment and 1 degree angular misalignment. The inserts don't last very long if they exceed that.

Went through this with my splitter build. In a perfect world you want zero but from my experience it is impossible. I tried to set mine up using a dial indicator. Motor shaft was out .005 (orbit)which was fine. Hydraulic pump was a different story. .030 out(orbiting) and the outside of the coupler makes it worse do to the increase in diameter. IMPOSSIBLE to align dead on. Call the manufacturer and they sent another, same thing. Distributer checked his Haldex pumps and they were the same to worse. I'd HIGHLY recommend checking your parts(shafts) BEFORE installing the couplers to see what you're working with. It's easy to say get them perfect, but I found it just wasn't possible.

I ran a bolt circle in setting mine up within .005 and ran it. It was basically the best I could do with what's out there. One thing that IS very important is to deburr your Lovejoy or Magnalloy couplers. They seem to have quit doing this at the factories and it'll chew up your spiders in a hurry.

You can check your alignment with a straightedge briding the 2 as well. Just look for light under the edges.

 

[Rattler05.5]

Going to bump this up again. I'm finally getting going on it.

Here is the beam. I cut it off at 9' long. It's probably overkill but it was free. The top and bottom are 1/2" thick and the middle is 3/8" thick. It's heavy!
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8405_zps4ed20743.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8405_zps4ed20743.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8404_zps9d8db648.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8404_zps9d8db648.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8402_zpsa8a46678.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8402_zpsa8a46678.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8400_zps2b7667b1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8400_zps2b7667b1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>
I know the fittings on this are not safe. They will be removed. I put a gauge on it prior to dismantling it and it never could go over 900psi. My pump is a 3000psi 28gpm that will serve this well and I will not risk the safety of galvanized pipe fittings.

The cylinder appears to be a 5"x30" with a 2" rod. It was left to sit for years with the rod partially extended so it rusted. It's not shiny any more but I was able to sand it all smooth. I don't know if it will survive under pressure or not. It may have ruined the seals but I'm going to try it before buying a new one.

When it's done I want the work platform to be about 36" tall. It will split out the back.

I would also like to make a 4 way or a 6 way wedge. I have some 1/2"x9" flat iron. Would that be strong enough with that width? Usually you see 1" sharpened to a point but it's not ever that wide(long?). I don't know if it will stand up to the forces of a 4-way or 6-way wedge.

I need to start tearing this apart and see what kind of engineering I need to do to get the pump mounted to it.
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_7971.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_7971.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

Any thoughts on the wedge? 1/2"x9" flat iron strong enough? If not what would you suggest? 1"x? I'm thinking 14" tall, Is that too much strain on the wedge?

 

[wndwlkr]

1-1/2" would be ideal with the size you're wanting, make it long enough to set it 5" down in your beam and weld it in & then box in the end of your beam. that will be very strong! :msp_thumbup:

 

[Rattler05.5]

I was hoping to make it an adjustable wedge so it would go all the way through the 10" beam and 12-14" above the beam. Could I laminate 3 pieces of the 1/2" to make 1 1/2"? I know it's not the same as 1 1/2".

hmmmm

 

[jags]

I was hoping to make it an adjustable wedge so it would go all the way through the 10" beam and 12-14" above the beam. Could I laminate 3 pieces of the 1/2" to make 1 1/2"? I know it's not the same as 1 1/2".

hmmmm

For an adjustable wedge I would highly recommend taking a look at the design of the timberwolf splitters. They are the most straight forward and proven adjustable wedge design that I know of. If it were me, I would emulate what they are doing. Just one dudes opinion.

 

[merlynr]

This may be helpful. The bracket was bought from northern tools. I aligned everything up before I drilled holes etc. Been working for 4 years now.

 

[Rattler05.5]

For an adjustable wedge I would highly recommend taking a look at the design of the timberwolf splitters. They are the most straight forward and proven adjustable wedge design that I know of. If it were me, I would emulate what they are doing. Just one dudes opinion.

Thanks jags, that looks like a very strong wedge and I can use the material that I have.

Here is where I am at today. Obviously this will be topped off with plate and finish welded. I will put another 1/2" plate that has been sharpened on the front of this as you can see with the lines. It will tie into the web of the I beam and the top and bottom plates. I think it will be plenty strong. If not, I will rip it off and start over! :msp_sneaky: Then I will fab a 4 way wedge that slides over the top of this. Maybe the adjustability will come later<$$
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8406_zpsd79e3386.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8406_zpsd79e3386.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8407_zps967de350.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8407_zps967de350.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8408_zps405fd1f0.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8408_zps405fd1f0.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

 

[wndwlkr]

That will be very strong, you'll like it. Looks good !

 

[jags]

I know it might sound crazy, but you will probably want to put a support or two inside of that V. You have enough surface area that eventually you will start to see the wedge cup.

 

[Rattler05.5]

I know it might sound crazy, but you will probably want to put a support or two inside of that V. You have enough surface area that eventually you will start to see the wedge cup.

Not crazy at all. I was planning on it but then thought that most of the "work" was in starting the split with the sharp end. I didn't think it took much force to pry the 2 halves apart. I will cap the top and I will add something in the middle since it's 14" tall. That's a lot of distance between the two supported ends.
I need to get more steel; hopefully today.

I'm not looking forward to making the sharp edge. I might try to whittle it down with the torch like I've seen on here. Then finish with hours on the grinder.

Thanks for the input!

 

[jags]

I have roughed in an edge with the torch and then finished it with the grinder. Lots of noisy work.

 

[dave_dj1]

Run a bead or two right up the center and sharpen that, it will be harder than steel alone.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Rattler05.5]

Run a bead or two right up the center and sharpen that, it will be harder than steel alone.:hmm3grin2orange:

Our pine trees aren't that hard to start with. Shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Jakers]

Run a bead or two right up the center and sharpen that, it will be harder than steel alone.:hmm3grin2orange:

my dad made our splitter back in the 80s. he started with a one inch plate and then laid a bunch of beads that tapered in. last 3-6 beads were hard surface rod. never had to sharpen it in 30 years.