My splitter build

[Patrick62]

opcorn:

 

[Rattler05.5]

28gpm should satisfy for quite some time.
I'm having fun.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

You asked for thoughts so just floating this out there. When splitting the push plate flexes some, vertically and horizontally. Not much, but some. It appears in the photo that your cylinder rod is welded directly to the push plate, where I believe most are pinned or bolted, front and rear, allowing some movement one plane or another. Welding directly, if that's what I'm seeing, may load the cylinder rod with undesirable side stresses. Does anyone else think that might be an issue?

 

[Rattler05.5]

A

You asked for thoughts so just floating this out there. When splitting the push plate flexes some, vertically and horizontally. Not much, but some. It appears in the photo that your cylinder rod is welded directly to the push plate, where I believe most are pinned or bolted, front and rear, allowing some movement one plane or another. Welding directly, if that's what I'm seeing, may load the cylinder rod with undesirable side stresses. Does anyone else think that might be an issue?

I agree that it might pose a problem. It came off of another homemade splitter as it is and I have added lots of additional gussets. I have $0 into the cylinder at this point so I guess we will all have to wait and see. The cylinder came off of a loader of some type so it has a half circle welded to the end of the rod, then that is welded to the 1" plate, gusseted with 1/2".
I will remain transparent about how it works and we will all watch and laugh if it rips itself apart.

 

[Rattler05.5]

Here is the valve I have. Again, left over from the old ugly splitter that I'm cannibalizing. I think it has 1" inlet and 1 1/2" outlet. I'm confident it will flow what I have. I wish I had unlimited funds to buy an auto valve but I don't. :/
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8902.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8902.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8902.jpg"/></a>
The only markings show Gresen Minneapolis. It's probably left over from a loader.
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8903.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8903.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8903.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8905.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8905.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8905.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s250.beta.photobucket.com/user/papagrande2001/media/Splitter%20build/IMG_8904.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8904.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8904.jpg"/></a>
Think it'll work? I'm getting ready to order up some hoses, filter assembly, screen filter, etc.

 

[Rattler05.5]

My suggestion - go thicker and still use bracing. Build it like you mean it. That one piece takes all the punishment that the splitter can hand out.

The push plate is now 2" thick with 1/2" angled braces on the back side to keep it straight. Can't imagine what it weighs. I'll get some photos soon to show how I made it.

 

[jags]

The push plate is now 2" thick with 1/2" angled braces on the back side to keep it straight. Can't imagine what it weighs. I'll get some photos soon to show how I made it.

Now yer talking.

 

[Rattler05.5]

2" thick!
<a href="http://beta.photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8925-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8925-1.jpg"/></a>
Clearance for the 4-way wedge.
<a href="http://beta.photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8926.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8926.jpg"/></a>
Startings of the slip on 4-way wedge. The horizontal wings will be stepped to help with the force it takes to split it.
<a href="http://beta.photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8928.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8928.jpg"/></a>
It's freakin' big. Valve, cylinder, and motor are pretty much in place. The tank will be opposite the motor. I'm really hoping the axle will need to be pretty far forward at the Center of Gravity to make lots of room out back for splitting.
<a href="http://beta.photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8930.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8930.jpg"/></a>
Pump mount. I will get it all lined up "perfectly" before welding it solid. I hope it will work.
<a href="http://beta.photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_8932.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_8932.jpg"/></a>
I'm not a professional welder and I know it. Vertical welds suck!

 

[Rattler05.5]

Parts coming!

Allright, I ordered bunche$ of parts from surplus center. New oil and air filter for the motor. It should all arrive next week and I hope to make some tangible progress.
I ordered a return filter, suction strainer, hoses, weld in flanges, adapters for the different sizes, tee for the pressure gauge, breather for the tank, etc.

I will need to fill holes on the tank and weld in new flanges for the return and pump suction strainer.

I have a mountain of Iso 46 hydraulic oil waiting. Bomgaars had the 5 gallon buckets $10 off this week. With a 30 gallon tank I bought 30 gallons of hydraulic oil, after filling the cylinder and hoses will that allow enough headroom in the tank?

 

[jags]

With a 30 gallon tank I bought 30 gallons of hydraulic oil, after filling the cylinder and hoses will that allow enough headroom in the tank?

Reserve 5 and see where that sets you. It is easier to add than it is to suck it back out.

 

[Jakers]

best start with something like 10 or 15. the oil will become foamy with all the trapped air being pushed out into the lines and expand quite a bit. when you first fire it up keep it at a low idle and let it run a minute or so just to get the air out of the pump, lines, and filter. then with the engine still at an idle slowly open a valve to start filling the cylinder and pushing the air out of the other side. when you get to the end dont hold the valve open trying to force more fluid in with the compressed air in it. this only compunds the problem. at this point check your oil to make sure you still have 3-4 inches in your tank. I dont recall the size of your cyl off hand but even a 6x36 only takes 5 gallons to fill. now return the cyl to the retracted position agian not holding the valve open at the end. do this a couple times and then shut it down for an hour or two to let the foamy oil seperate out the air.

Air is very hard on your pump so getting it all out is critical. dont build pressure and expect the 2nd stage to work properly if theres still air in the system

now there will still be air in the system so when you re-fire it keep things slow again and cycle the cyl a few more times. monitoring your oil. if still foamy after 5 min or so then let it sit again. after this you should be able to safely fill your tank to the 25 gal mark. save 5 gal for refilling if you have a leak or a break down. now you should be set to try pressuring it up some. if you dont have a pressure gauge in your plan get one installed someplace easy to see. a gauge is your friend in telling whether things are working properly or not.

 

[Rattler05.5]

Thank you for that insight. I wouldn't have expected the foamy oil. I will go easy at first and be sure that everything is working before puting much volume in the tank.
Again, Thank you for the help.

 

[Jakers]

Thank you for that insight. I wouldn't have expected the foamy oil. I will go easy at first and be sure that everything is working before puting much volume in the tank.
Again, Thank you for the help.

have to have enuf so you dont suck a hole in the oil too, just make sure you leave some space is all. if you have a 30 gal tank 15 will work great to start. the only reason to have more than about 7 or so is to keep oil temps down

 

[walkerdogman85]

Looking forward to seeing a video cause I am going to order a 28 gpm for my splitter build!

 

[Rattler05.5]

Parts came in today. I got the tank all prepared. I had to seal off a couple of holes and got all the flanges in. I put a 1/4" bronze breather right by the fill spout for venting.

Here is the 3" female flange for the strainer.
<a href="http://beta.photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_9003.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_9003.jpg"/></a>

Here is the 1 1/4" for the return line. Hopefully it will hold.
<a href="http://beta.photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/IMG_9004.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_9004.jpg"/></a>
Tomorrow I will finish up the cylinder back stop and start running lines.... Finally!

 

[dave_dj1]

Awesome! It's a good feeling isn't it?

 

[Rattler05.5]

Awesome! It's a good feeling isn't it?

Thanks for following along,
It feels good but sometimes it feels good to drive to the store and bring home something that simply works!

I ordered two 3/4"x1" elbows for the pressure lines. Will come Monday probably. :msp_unsure:

I got the tank mounted, the cylinder butt stop welded on, some lines run and some fittings in the tank. I will get the pump all set where it needs to be tomorrow. I need to run to Ace Hardware to get some better bolts for final assemply. I will also finish the 4-way wedge.

The pieces are getting smaller that I still need.

I am still looking for an old ragged trailer that I can cannibalize to get an axle, lights, receiver, etc. off of. If I get it done before I find one I will just pick it up with the tractor to test it out.

There will be video!

 

[dave_dj1]

Check CL for a small trailer or boat trailer

 

[jthornton]

I used a rear axle from a Dodge K car and fabricated some spring hangers to mount it to my frame. I found mine with good rubber and hubcaps at a local junkyard for $80 which is much cheaper than using new trailer parts.

John

 

[Jredsjeep]

I used a rear axle from a Dodge K car and fabricated some spring hangers to mount it to my frame. I found mine with good rubber and hubcaps at a local junkyard for $80 which is much cheaper than using new trailer parts.

John

funny i used the exact same thing because i had a k car i was parting out. you dont see them in yards anymore but i found saturn wheels fit just fine, trouble is they are dissapearing to now.

you can get nice 15 in wheels with a wider tire easily then, i can get new tire/wheel combos in the yard for 20 each when i need them.