My splitter build

[Rattler05.5]

Made some nice progress today. I got the mower all cut up. I couldn't think of a way to use all of the stuff that I needed without a lot of work so I left it pretty much whole. Minus the steering wheel. :cool2:
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Not sure how I will place it on the rest of the splitter.
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It's a behemoth!
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[Rattler05.5]

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Looks like I need to finish welding this seam.
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Thoughts?

 

[Rattler05.5]

I just ordered the lovejoy L-100 couplings and spider. They are rated for 23HP and should arrive next week.

 

[jags]

Keep that engine on the low side (remember though, you gotta hang a pump under it). How thick is that push plate? Mine is 1-1/4" thick and the corners are bent a bit for reference.

 

[jthornton]

That push plate looks wimpy compared to the wedge... that said that thing is going to be huge. With 20 something hp what size pump are you using and is that a 4" cylinder?

John

 

[Rattler05.5]

The cylinder is recycled and I just got it fully extended and set it up there to see some distances. I haven't even started to build the push plate. I was thinking braced/gusseted 1/2" though so maybe I need to up that a bit.

I have a 28gpm pump with 20hp kohler. I think the cylinder is 4"x36".

 

[jags]

I was thinking braced/gusseted 1/2" though so maybe I need to up that a bit.

My suggestion - go thicker and still use bracing. Build it like you mean it. That one piece takes all the punishment that the splitter can hand out.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Better to be safe than sorry, overbuild it. If your running a 28GPM pump, try to keep all the hard 90 degree bends out of the system. Heat is going to be a factor when you start pushing that much fluid. If you have to have a 90 degree bend, use a long sweep. With a 4 inch cylinder it is going to be WAY fast.

 

[jags]

With a 4 inch cylinder it is going to be WAY fast.

Like - super splitter fast.:msp_scared:

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Like - super splitter fast.:msp_scared:

he was talking about splitting wood, not kindling. Firesuit ready.

 

[Rattler05.5]

definately not making kindling.
I will get a photo of the cylinder and check the rod diameter to figure out the speed but I am building somewhat assuming I will need to buy a new (larger) cylinder. I just don't have much faith in this old dog. It was parked for many years with they rod extended part way and it was rusty when I got it. Time will tell.
I hate standing around waiting for the cylinder to cycle. I am hoping to be able to operate without being at 3600RPM and make it a little bit more enjoyable. I will be looking for a large volume fluid reservoir to help with the temps. I will stay away from 90s if at all possible.
Thanks for the input.

 

[Rattler05.5]

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5.5" OD would make it a 4" cylinder right? The rod is 2".
I think I got the rod cleaned up pretty well but it is not chromed any more so it is vulnerable to rust if it's ever left exposed.


Speed calculations come to
28 gpm 4" x36" stroke 2" rod
Extend Time= 4.2 sec. Retract Time= 3.2 sec. Cycle Time= 7.4 sec.
30" stroke
Extend Time= 3.5 sec. Retract Time= 2.6 sec. Cycle Time= 6.1 sec.

 

[jags]

5.5" OD would make it a 4" cylinder right? The rod is 2".

Nope - that would more than likely be a 5" with 1/4" walls. Still gonna be a fast machine.

 

[Rattler05.5]

In that case I hope the cylinder holds fluid. 5" will give me enough force to use the 4 way and maybe a 6 way if it doesn't rip itself apart.
Thanks Jags
5" x36" 2" rod
Extend Time= 6.5 sec. Retract Time= 5.5 sec. Cycle Time= 12 sec.
using 30" stroke
Extend Time= 5.5 sec. Retract Time= 4.6 sec. Cycle Time= 10.1 sec.

 

[jags]

If you plan on using an auto return (detente) control valve, you can drill a 1/2" hole in the I-beam where you want the return to stop and drop a half inch bolt in there. When the shuttle hits it, it will create the pressure needed to pop the control valve back to center.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Nope - that would more than likely be a 5" with 1/4" walls. Still gonna be a fast machine.

28GPM ,5 inch cylinder auto cycle is what I put on mine. You'll be a happy camper. If you do the 4 or 6 way, make it removeable or where you don't have to use it with a cylinder or something. The knotty stuff will give you fits and takes more force than people think. Stairstepped wedges ease the strain and do better. There is just a lot of surface area if you try to do it all at once.

 

[jags]

I am also a 5" cylinder guy, but only running 16 gpm. That will change if the pump ever gives me a problem.

 

[Rattler05.5]

How's this?
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Beefy, still not done though.

 

[Rattler05.5]

Today's progress. Made a run to the salvage yard and got a 30 gallon tank for hydraulic fluid. Even comes with a nice mount, should work very well. After trading them for 80lbs of batteries it was $32. Score.
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Trying to keep the weight as far forward as possible to bring the axle forward and out of the way when splitting. The hydraulic tank will be on the opposite side of the front.
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This will make the cylinder controls and the engine controls very accessible. I think I will like it.
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[wndwlkr]

Looks good , you'll like the big tank,mounts are always good also. if you plan on a bigger pump later, weld in a 3" bung for a big strainer & you'll be ready to go. nice build you got going !:msp_thumbup: