Needed a bigger saw. Can't afford new. Found a hardly used 064.

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There is were I left my blower......... Could you get that back to me ASAP??

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How about we rig that up on your 064?? :rock:
 
There is were I left my blower......... Could you get that back to me ASAP??

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How about we rig that up on your 064?? :rock:

I'd be winning hot saw competitions if we figured out how to do that!
Its a Eaton m45 used on smaller engines from 2.0L to 3.0L so maybe it will work?????? :msp_thumbsup:
 
This is what I have found so far:

Looks like two of the buffers are deformed from being in that "bent handle" position too long.

I also found the needle bearing to be completely dry and seem to be done with. The inside of the clutch drum looks like it saw some serious heat from it. If you run your finger on the inside it feels fairly rough. I am planning on a new needle bearing but do I ned to replace the drum also? can I run some steel wool through there and smooth it out?
 
Road2dmascus, nice saw's they are great, way underated by many people. Definately one to hang on to.
 
I have never had luck with any repainting of saws holding up worth a darn... Look good for a few tanks then looks even worse than what I started with.
 
I ended up using a rustoleum rattle can. It was a universal paint and primer in one for wood, metal, plastic or masonry. I have never used the stuff so who knows if it will hold up. Looks a lot better right now.

I have never had luck with any repainting of saws holding up worth a darn... Look good for a few tanks then looks even worse than what I started with.

Solid urethanes are the way to go, I normally use a color matched, 2 part (automotive type, hardener activated) urethane. The stuff dries fast, is tough, hard, covers very well, and most importantly is very fuel resistant -its the closest thing to a factory finish I know of and in some cases its better.
Prepping bare mag surfaces must be done right. As with any paint, if the primer doesn't stick, then nothing on top of it will stick either.
Clear 2 part urethanes work well too, but the paint underneath must be very dry. If I use a rattle can paint for a base coat, I'll bake the finish to be sure its dry before applying a urethane clear coat on top. I've used Krylon with good results. I don't use Rustoleum as it takes way to long to dry (even if baked) and remains soft for far too long.
 
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Looks like two of the buffers are deformed from being in that "bent handle" position too long.

I also found the needle bearing to be completely dry and seem to be done with. The inside of the clutch drum looks like it saw some serious heat from it. If you run your finger on the inside it feels fairly rough. I am planning on a new needle bearing but do I ned to replace the drum also? can I run some steel wool through there and smooth it out?

Anyone help me on this one?
 
Make sure your crank bearings aren't loose. Try to move both ends of the crankshaft. I've seen the plastic spacers break that hold the balls in put splace. I've also seen them waller out the case on clutch side. Check your intake boot and all rubber hoses. Check your tank vent. That looks like a well used saw and should be gone through thoroughly. They make a great saw though.

So the flywheel and the clutch are attached to the crankshaft on either end. Do I need to take them both off to do this test? Right now when I try to move the flywheel or clutch in and out or up and down there is ZERO play. I also threw a wrench on both the flywheel and clutch and it is very tight. I don't know if that means anything.
 
Right now when I try to move the flywheel or clutch in and out or up and down there is ZERO play.
Sounds like the bearings are snug. Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

The inside of the clutch drum looks like it saw some serious heat from it. If you run your finger on the inside it feels fairly rough. I am planning on a new needle bearing but do I ned to replace the drum also? can I run some steel wool through there and smooth it out ?
The part of the drum that is prone to wear is the bore that holds the needle bearing. As long as the drum is a snug fit on the needle bearing, you should be able to continue using it. Don't worry about roughness on the drum itself.
 
Sounds like the bearings are snug. Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

The part of the drum that is prone to wear is the bore that holds the needle bearing. As long as the drum is a snug fit on the needle bearing, you should be able to continue using it. Don't worry about roughness on the drum itself.

The bearing is snug and is not seized. I will pack the bearing with grease and reuse it. Thank you.
 
Have you fired the saw up yet?

Still in pieces on bench. I need to get some parts first. One of my sons turned two so there was no work done on the saw today. I still need to degrease the crankcase and surrounding areas as well.
 
While you've got it down this far, I'd go ahead and pull the cylinder. Decarbon the piston crown, combustion chamber, and exhaust port. Check the ring gap. If excessive, grab a set of Caber rings. Go back together with a new gasket. Clean the carb, and replace the diaphragms if needed. Check your intake boot, impulse hose, and fuel line. When you're done with this, you'll know what you've got and have a dependable piece of equipment.
 
Still in pieces on bench. I need to get some parts first. One of my sons turned two so there was no work done on the saw today. I still need to degrease the crankcase and surrounding areas as well.

It's good that you are going through the saw, but in the future, fire it up , put it in wood once or twice, before you tare into it. That can alert you alot of potential problems up front.
 
I did run it through some wood first. Hit a firewood pile and took down a small tree. post #28


Had to play with the saw today. Started on third pull again. Took down a small tree. Only issue was that I had considerably less time to play due to how fast it worked through all the wood! This thing is great! No gas leaks or bar oil leaks. Air filter is considerably dirty.
 

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