I always liked Makita, but they're going down hill if you ask me, had this happen to my 18v after about a year. I've had better luck with Hitachi and Milwaukee. Next time I'm in the market I'll likely pick Hilti.
"New" 70cc class saws... Dyno day
- Thread starter Red97
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Most of you might know factories love South Carolina, so I started looking at Ryobi and Makita because they both have factories near me.
Ryobi only boxes pre-assembled tools and slaps a USA sticker on it, whereas Makita actually assembles the tools in house. So I buy Makita for work and Milwaukee for home.
Ryobi only boxes pre-assembled tools and slaps a USA sticker on it, whereas Makita actually assembles the tools in house. So I buy Makita for work and Milwaukee for home.
Returning to chainsaws for a moment, I would very much like for @Cliff R to express his interpretation of the data presented. Last weekend I ran almost 3 tanks through a brand new 500i with a 25" bar and a 8 pin sprocket. In over bar length Pin and Red Oak, I was impressed with its torque. Being a heavy-handed cutter, that power was great to have. Just wondering if the charts read a better suited saw for me than the 500i. The less peaky a saw is the easier it is for a klutz like me to run.
Ron
Ron
Back to the graph
Note how the 500i has rising torque as the speed is pulled down.
Note how flat the 572 torque line is.
How much variation in the 6 values averaged to produce the lines? Is having a skinny line like in the picture misleading in any way?
The text says an average run was picked to display I will guess that kind of means median run.
Note how the 500i has rising torque as the speed is pulled down.
Note how flat the 572 torque line is.
How much variation in the 6 values averaged to produce the lines? Is having a skinny line like in the picture misleading in any way?
The text says an average run was picked to display I will guess that kind of means median run.
Some of the saws (carb) stay very consistent.
Others (auto/mtron) are a royal pain to load....
The computer saws are constantly trying to adjust and tune that it makes a solid smooth pull very difficult.
Unless it was just a plain bad run/glitch etc. They will repeat within .1 or less. Once I get 2-3 runs back to back like that I pick the median.
On single saw runs I've been including 2-3 runs and letting the viewer decide.
It is an engine, they do act just a touch different each time.
But being 5 saws I can only include 6 lines per graph.
Here is 2 pair of lines from a 460 rancher muffler mod before/after.
This is what I am looking for, if I get 2-3 runs repeat like that, I pick the middle one.
I have and still use Makita corded and cordless going back to 1980 to new ones this year. Not a single one has failed. Batteries eventually have gone bad. My 5" grinder still has the original brushes and it's seen a lot of use over the last 30+ years. Al told I'm over 25+ tools.
While my preference is with Makita, Ridgid and Milwaukee none of the name brands are really bad. As you go lower down the list batteries tend to get worse, but generally the tools are usable. The remaining issue is does their battery system have the tools you need.
I used bosch for years, and their 36volt rotary hammer is great!
18v is behind the competition. Their batteries are easy to DIY Rebuild, and Many of my original 8 yo batteries are doing fine.
I have their 6.5 inch 18v circular saw, The rest of the bosch I have doesn't get much use around my Milwaukee.
The saw is better than Milwaukee/dewalt/makita/metabo from a User friendly perspective & makes the easiest Smooth straight cuts without a guide.
18v is behind the competition. Their batteries are easy to DIY Rebuild, and Many of my original 8 yo batteries are doing fine.
I have their 6.5 inch 18v circular saw, The rest of the bosch I have doesn't get much use around my Milwaukee.
The saw is better than Milwaukee/dewalt/makita/metabo from a User friendly perspective & makes the easiest Smooth straight cuts without a guide.
Just an fyi , kobalt contracts out their batteries with Chevron now and they are pretty good.
Vrooom.. Vrooom.. Chainsaw!
Vrooom.. Vrooom
Vrooom.. Vrooom
Now that we've beat battery tools to death back to chainsaws..
I don't have many others to compare to having only a 261CM and 500i now. The 500i has a 25" bar with standard chain and the lightbar. Cutting full bar length less the nose it pretty doesn't hesitate or slow. The 261CM has an 18" bar with Stihl's standard antikickback chain. Past about 14" depending on the wood it starts to shows signs of needing more HP. The real difference I see between them is all about the throttle response to be up and cutting noticeably faster. It seems, though I haven't done any real study, that the work goes faster.
I don't have many others to compare to having only a 261CM and 500i now. The 500i has a 25" bar with standard chain and the lightbar. Cutting full bar length less the nose it pretty doesn't hesitate or slow. The 261CM has an 18" bar with Stihl's standard antikickback chain. Past about 14" depending on the wood it starts to shows signs of needing more HP. The real difference I see between them is all about the throttle response to be up and cutting noticeably faster. It seems, though I haven't done any real study, that the work goes faster.
Fast enough & strong enough little saw, is the 261 but you can't bore well with it on some hardwoods with an aggressive chain without it pounding to death.
That spider bushing at the front needed to be personally corrected.
That spider bushing at the front needed to be personally corrected.
But wait!, you had to correct an engineering defect with some backyard hackery?
Impossible.
Impossible.
I replaced that one in an ms441 with a solid one, I think from an ms361.
