dooby
ArboristSite Guru
Looks like its's right up your alley- According to your profile. Maybe you want to help me with acquisition for a huge piece of the pie?LOL
opcorn:
New Chain Sharpener
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Looks like its's right up your alley- According to your profile. Maybe you want to help me with acquisition for a huge piece of the pie?LOL
opcorn:Cloud IT
ArboristSite Operative
Looks like its's right up your alley- According to your profile. Maybe you want to help me with acquisition for a huge piece of the pie?LOL
See that's my point. Right now there is no "pie" and there won't be until you can create sales.
I would love to take a product like SS and crush the DR version or to take a great product like the timberline and make it a national brand. There are just so many great products in this niche that just don't get the proper marketing they deserve.
Name one nationally branded company for performance chainsaw tuning. (top result in Google is for tuning a carb with ZERO bids for advertising on that keyword)
How many times have we seen a new product only to say "hey, that was my idea". It takes a special type of person to not only have the idea but then to have the will to start the project and the determination to follow through when everything goes wrong. Smart investors wait until that person has proven they have what it takes.
dooby
ArboristSite Guru
I have thought a lot about trying to inc. w/Timberline or get this to a national brand like Granberg,Oregon,Carlton or maybe even Stihl or Husqvarna. Time and patients is were I'm at right now. Still got some improving to do on proto-type. And believe me-I could use some of Corp. America's $$$$.LOL.
Already done it, but should I have?
I have not used my Timberline sharpener excessively but nevertheless the aluminum catch was getting real ragged resulting in poor results on the left cutters. I made a new catch out of 3/8" steel key stock. The sharpener is very precise once again. Any significant reason why I should have stayed with aluminum? Ron
New catch installed:
Old catch (sorry for the blurry picture but you can get an idea of the damage:
View attachment 306320View attachment 306321
I have not used my Timberline sharpener excessively but nevertheless the aluminum catch was getting real ragged resulting in poor results on the left cutters. I made a new catch out of 3/8" steel key stock. The sharpener is very precise once again. Any significant reason why I should have stayed with aluminum? Ron
New catch installed:
Old catch (sorry for the blurry picture but you can get an idea of the damage:
View attachment 306320View attachment 306321
Hulsty
ArboristSite Operative
I am about to pull the trigger on one of these, just need some advice on which cutter size. I want to use the same cutter and angle on all my chains, I have a mix of carlton and stihl 3/8''. Should I stick to 7/32″ or 13/64″ cutters to do both?
Majorpayne
ArboristSite Operative
Yes.
Both. When the teeth get filed back over half way the 13/64 will probably work better for you.
if i were going to buy only one size, i would make it 13/64", especially for sharpening stihl chains, which, i think, specify 13/64" files, or any semi-chisel. you get a bit more hook and improved self feeding. the 13/64" burrs should work well on oregon and carlton chains too.
hope this helps.
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matteusz
ArboristSite Lurker
Timberline will send you a new one for free! That is the only reason I can think of.
Aluminum is probably used because the stock is cheaper and it is cheaper than steel to machine. Seems like there are plenty of other jigs and such made of steel can't see this being a problem.
Talked to Timberline this morning and got a current discount code when I mentioned AS. Have been looking for a simple tool like this for some time. Almost ended up with a file guide and a headache till I read the bulk this thread. Thanks to all those that have reviewed the product and provided some great tips.
In case anyone else is wondering Timberline does not have plans to offer a pro model and does not seem to have any improvements in the works atm. I asked about an additional cut to move the pawl to the other side of the tool and a pro model and he said "Not right now, but check back. There may be something in the future." Too bad there is so much good feedback available from end users here that could make this a more widely sold and used tool. Probably economics are a heavy influence here. Although the changes are simple they are costly to make and for now I am betting cash flow is insufficient for the owner to be wanting to improve his product. Which is ironic since improvements could increase cash flow improve sales and get him to bigger and better business. Oh well I'll leave the business decisions to him. I have some trees to :chainsawguy:
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I have been out cutting wood recently and have been using the timberline sharpener to sharpen the chains. Well, I am having some issues with it. I will get it set up which I am pretty sure is the right way and I will sharpen a few teeth then the top of the teeth will start catching the tool and you can't move the chain until you readjust the tool. When you readjust the tool where it isn't hitting, the cutter is not lined up on the tooth right. Another issue I am having is when I am sharpening the teeth on the outside of the chain, the cutter is coming in contact with the chain stop. It is also real close on the other side as well but does not touch.
This is on a fairly new Stihl chain that has not seen a whole lot of use yet. I may try to get some pics of what is happening, might be hard since it will be so close up. I thought about taking some material off the tool so the teeth do not catch but I before I do that, I would contact Timberline about this if I don't figure out anything. It is also possible I am not getting it setup right but I don't think that is the case. Has anybody else ran into issues like these? Maybe I need to start a new thread about this.
This is on a fairly new Stihl chain that has not seen a whole lot of use yet. I may try to get some pics of what is happening, might be hard since it will be so close up. I thought about taking some material off the tool so the teeth do not catch but I before I do that, I would contact Timberline about this if I don't figure out anything. It is also possible I am not getting it setup right but I don't think that is the case. Has anybody else ran into issues like these? Maybe I need to start a new thread about this.
The only time I've had a problem like yours is trying to sharpen a chain with a lot of different tooth lengths and angles. A hand filed chain will sometimes be so far out of whack that putting it on a sharpener really points out the mistakes that were made.
Check your tooth length and if there's a lot of variance you'll probably have to go over the chain lightly two or three times to get everything back the same again. Once everything on the chain is uniform...cutter length, top plate angle...you'll find the Timberline dead simple to use.
I've been using the Timberline for a couple of years now and I like it. I have a volunteer trail crew made up of weekend warriors and I got another one just for them to use. Their chain sharpening problems and challenges went down to almost nothing when the little gadget showed up.
Be sure the side knobs are tightened well and it shouldn't move on the bar.
[video=youtube;BBJOtkqUnEI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=BBJOtkqUnEI[/video]
Check your tooth length and if there's a lot of variance you'll probably have to go over the chain lightly two or three times to get everything back the same again. Once everything on the chain is uniform...cutter length, top plate angle...you'll find the Timberline dead simple to use.
I've been using the Timberline for a couple of years now and I like it. I have a volunteer trail crew made up of weekend warriors and I got another one just for them to use. Their chain sharpening problems and challenges went down to almost nothing when the little gadget showed up.
Be sure the side knobs are tightened well and it shouldn't move on the bar.
[video=youtube;BBJOtkqUnEI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=BBJOtkqUnEI[/video]
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Clarkbug
ArboristSite Operative
Make sure the knobs that secure the body of the sharpener are TIGHT. Sounds like you are shifting the tool around and getting hung up.
Take some pics and post them. What size chain are you sharpening? Is your stop worn down, or did you hit it with the stop? Using standard 30 degree guides?
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I will check the teeth for variance but I don't think there should be much. This chain is not that old and not been used a whole bunch.
The knobs are tight. I will try to get some pics. The chain is 3/8 Stihl chain. The stop shouldn't be worn down as I just bought the tool in the past year. I am using the standard guides.
Timberline vid
This has been posted before but it's still a good learning tool...
[video=youtube;UnarjvDm_gI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=UnarjvDm_gI[/video]
This has been posted before but it's still a good learning tool...
[video=youtube;UnarjvDm_gI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=UnarjvDm_gI[/video]
make sure your not being to aggressive trying to cut to much when i first got mine i was trying to do all in one pass noticed tool would move and chain wood be to close on the front our back side now i take lighter cuts and go around twice
Thanks for the tip, Matteusz.
I picked up a Gamn sharpener on eBay. Although it is very nice, I believe the guys at Timberline did a better job. The Gamn has a fixed 35 degree angle and way too many accessories but it does have a pilot pin to center and set how much you are going to cut off. Of course the adjustment is almost useless if your chain is boogered, but on a good chain it should make set up easier - especially if you find yourself sharpening in the dark as I did Friday night. I don't have the pilot pin for 3/8 chain but I may attempt to make one once I get the dimensions. Assuming the teeth are all the same, you can also lower depth guides with the Gamn but I am not sure it is worth the set up time. I think you could do the same with a Timberline if you filed one depth guide to the proper height and set up off of it. Ron
PS to Bob: Too bad the good part of California is so far away as this worn out weekend warrior would sign up for duty. I'm sure you could teach me a lot more than just sharpening and falling.
I picked up a Gamn sharpener on eBay. Although it is very nice, I believe the guys at Timberline did a better job. The Gamn has a fixed 35 degree angle and way too many accessories but it does have a pilot pin to center and set how much you are going to cut off. Of course the adjustment is almost useless if your chain is boogered, but on a good chain it should make set up easier - especially if you find yourself sharpening in the dark as I did Friday night. I don't have the pilot pin for 3/8 chain but I may attempt to make one once I get the dimensions. Assuming the teeth are all the same, you can also lower depth guides with the Gamn but I am not sure it is worth the set up time. I think you could do the same with a Timberline if you filed one depth guide to the proper height and set up off of it. Ron
PS to Bob: Too bad the good part of California is so far away as this worn out weekend warrior would sign up for duty. I'm sure you could teach me a lot more than just sharpening and falling.
What's the current discount code ?
Flintknapper
ArboristSite Operative
I use mine about every third or fourth 'filing' just to keep things even.
It is not a difficult tool to use...but an unevenly filed chain (teeth different lengths) is going to require some time advancing the stop. IMO....it is best used from the very start on a new chain.
DON'T try to take too big a 'bite' on chain tooth, you will only succeed in lifting it with the carbide cutter.
Also, I don't alternate sharpening teeth. I do all in one direction then switch and do the others, it seems to require less adjusting of the stop.
Getting the fixture the right height (and parallel with the bar) is the trickiest part at first, but you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly.
It is not a difficult tool to use...but an unevenly filed chain (teeth different lengths) is going to require some time advancing the stop. IMO....it is best used from the very start on a new chain.
DON'T try to take too big a 'bite' on chain tooth, you will only succeed in lifting it with the carbide cutter.
Also, I don't alternate sharpening teeth. I do all in one direction then switch and do the others, it seems to require less adjusting of the stop.
Getting the fixture the right height (and parallel with the bar) is the trickiest part at first, but you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly.
If you ever get out this way let me know. The trail crews usually work weekends with most of the heavy saw work being done in winter. You're more than welcome to join in.
If I'm still logging, and I really hope I'm not, you're also welcome to hang out. We'll really put you to work.
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