To the replies above about needing dealer support... Blah blah blah...:chatter: If you have the willingness to learn you don't need anyone but yourself, a few hand tools, and this forum to fix any saw problem you might encounter! In fact most of the newbies to this site could learn most of what you need by buying and rebuilding a saw for themselves! It's how I learned to fix and trouble shoot on my own... I think people put way to much emphasis on professional support when it'll put you ahead to learn a little now.
Also buying a less powerful, heavier, non-pro saw new from the dealer and adding all the saftey gear will certainly push you over a $400 budget. Do yourself a favor and get a good used pro saw that has better air filtration, will last longer, and give you a better power to weight ratio. Not to mention you'll actually have enough cash left for the saftey gear.
ALSO!!!! IF, you go to a stihl dealer and buy a consumer saw (ms250 or ms290 etc), you'll need a compressor to blow your filter off after every time you use it b/c the filters clog up with dust and choak the saw for air. The carbs also come stock leaned out way to far! So to make the saw reliable you need to pull the limiter caps, retune carb. As for muffler mods: it keeps heat off the cylinder and muffler so it's a good idea. By the time you do either you'll void your warrenty!
I agree it isn't extremely complex to be able to work on your own saw and doesn't take a large $ investment in tools,, but if he doesn't have interest in it what is the purpose. Maybe instead of working on working on saws maybe he should spend that same time learning how to file his chain?
An MS250 that has been suggested by a few people and it has a very good power to weight ratio. I also don't buy that hour wise longevity comparison of pro vs homeowner. Why do you think you can put more hours on a new 026 vs 025 (MS260 vs MS250, MS260 vs MS250, pro brand y vs homeowner brand y saw, etc). If neither saw is abused or straight gassed and it runs many many hours what will be the critical areas that will first show signs of fatigue on either saw minus fuel related issues (carb, fuel line, impulse line etc)? I would have to say rings, seals and bearings? What deficiencies in these areas do the homeowner saws have that aren't found on the pro saws?
Do you need a compressor if your own an 026 vs an MS250? How much more often do you have to blow off your filter on an 025 vs an 026? The key to keeping your air filter clean on even saws that may have a bit of an anemic air filter is to keep the chain sharp. I've sold a few 025's to friends and I'm not saying they cut a lot of wood, but about the only maintenance they have done on them is putting gas and oil in them along with bar maintenance. If they have cleaned the air filters I don't think it amounted to more than hitting it on their leg.
I've used stihl in my post because thats what I'm most familiar with, but imo buying a new saw from a dealer with a warranty is this guy's safest bet whether it be a husky, dolmar, or stihl. He can then focus learning to sharpen his chain, about ppe, etc. vs expending a ton of time learning about the mechanics and wrenching on saws.