New here - 346XP with a ground electrode that broke off in the cylinder

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Those clips are spring steel and one use only as the heat ruins the temper.

your saw, but I would never re-use circlips. Ever.

oops, just noticed you got it back together. It might be just fine.

pretty aggressive muffler mod...

chinese mufflers to fit that saw are 20 bucks and a good piece. You'll be needing one I think.

:innocent:

Ugh. I went too far didn't I.

I'll order one.
 
You might be ok. I was told a million years ago not to re-use them. So I don't. I've removed lots that definately were softer than the new ones that went back in.

Did you re-use the wrist pin bearing?
 
I've gotten away with stuff too, don't get me wrong.

I hope that main drive belt on my baler hangs together for a few more acres. I gotta pick up the new one tomorrow...
 
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You have a nice saw. Don't ruin it with a junk top end.

Make sure to get a new wrist pin AND bearing while you are at it. Make sure to use new piston clips too. Put a little rag under the piston when you install the second clip (the first clip will, of course be installed before you start installing the piston) so that it can't fall in the crankcase...

others have differing opinions, of course.
 
OK I'm back in HL Supply.

I was having too much fun.

Should I be getting the stock looking exhaust or the side exit?
 
A muf mod with a 3/4" outlet, or modding your stock opening, wile keeping a spark screen present would be the best option imo. I'm a bit of a hypocrite on that, as I havent gotten around to making screens for all my saws, but the saws I normally cut with have screens. I prefer side Exit, myself. Keeps the heat off the front of the saw imo.
 
Those clips are spring steel and one use only as the heat ruins the temper.
Annealing temperature for spring steel starts at 500F.
I can't imagine a properly running saw having a piston reach that temperature and not show damage the piston.
Then again I've seen rod ends turned blue with high operating temperatures.
That said, new clips are cheap insurance as a loose clip in the engine trashes the piston and cylinder.
Have a cylinder from a 034 that suffered that fate.
 
Guys,
Thank you all for your input.

I have a huge sh*t eating grin on my face.

I modified the exhaust today. I though it would be really loud but honestly it's not too bad. I had some logs that needed bucking and I did that today. It was awesome.

My tachometer arrives tomorrow and I'll learn how to tune it but right now the thing absolutely rips.

I didn't have an exhaust gasket... So just the metal heat shield and then the muffler.

And I still need to fix the oil leak tomorrow.

I borrowed my brother's brand new echo cs490 and the thing is so anemic compared to the 346xp.

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I'd make sure it's tuned properly before you run it anymore. I've never used a tach, I tune by ear.
Yes I'm reading into that now.

Set idle speed first so the chain barely moves.

Set low so that it reacts well
Set high so that it 4 strokes with no load but 2 strokes in the wood.

Not sure if I can hear the difference between 4 stroking and 2 stroking. But I may use the tach to bring me to 14,200 as a max.

Does that sound about right?
 
My saw did not have a gasket between cylinder and exhaust. It had a metal heat shield.

Does it need a gasket?
 
My saw did not have a gasket between cylinder and exhaust. It had a metal heat shield.

Does it need a gasket?
Sometimes they stick to the muffler and it’s hard to tell if they are there. It doesn’t really need it, but it’s not a bad idea either. It serves as an insulator between the muffler and cylinder to keep heat out.
Also, take a video of yourself tuning the saw. It’s a lot easier to hear the 4 stroke sound in the video than it is in person
 
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