RED-85-Z51
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These saws get a leak behind the muffler and melt the case into the oil tank
Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
New here - 346XP with a ground electrode that broke off in the cylinder
- Thread starter Underwhere
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Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
So the gasket goes between the muffler and heat shield?
I attempted to fix the oil leak today. Hopefully the motoseal sets and cures the leak.
Pretty dirty under the clutch cover.
I have my tach but don't think I can get out today to tune it.
I did a slight muffler mod on my borrowed cs490. I'm going to tune that as well.
I will post videos.
My guess is that I'll post a quick 2 second WOT (no load) and then I'll post a video of it cutting through some wood.
Then you guys can tell me how it sounds.
I plan on setting the saw to 14,200 rpm
I attempted to fix the oil leak today. Hopefully the motoseal sets and cures the leak.
Pretty dirty under the clutch cover.
I have my tach but don't think I can get out today to tune it.
I did a slight muffler mod on my borrowed cs490. I'm going to tune that as well.
I will post videos.
My guess is that I'll post a quick 2 second WOT (no load) and then I'll post a video of it cutting through some wood.
Then you guys can tell me how it sounds.
I plan on setting the saw to 14,200 rpm
i believe you might be thinking of the 350, 346 is a mag saw.
RED-85-Z51
Addicted to ArboristSite
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
So I had a chance to sneak out and use the tachometer.
I warmed it up for a minute or two.
Idle started out around 3k. I dropped it down to about 2700 but it would jump around a little bit.
The low setting - I didn't really know what to do here. It was a out 1.5 turns from all the way in. Seemed fine so I left it there.
The high setting - I tested and the first WOT landed at 13k which I thought it was low. I tried to lean it out and the highest I got was 13.5k and that was with the screw turned in all the way.
I swear I had an limited coil. I popped the cover off and it is black. I think i confused myself as some of the wiring is blue.
So now that I have an limited coil... Now what? Do I just turn the H screw all the way in (lean)?
Should I get an unlimited coil?
I warmed it up for a minute or two.
Idle started out around 3k. I dropped it down to about 2700 but it would jump around a little bit.
The low setting - I didn't really know what to do here. It was a out 1.5 turns from all the way in. Seemed fine so I left it there.
The high setting - I tested and the first WOT landed at 13k which I thought it was low. I tried to lean it out and the highest I got was 13.5k and that was with the screw turned in all the way.
I swear I had an limited coil. I popped the cover off and it is black. I think i confused myself as some of the wiring is blue.
So now that I have an limited coil... Now what? Do I just turn the H screw all the way in (lean)?
Should I get an unlimited coil?
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Next is to figure out why it's not getting enough fuel. Could be the carb, could be a fuel filter, line, or vent.
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
Is the issue fuel or is it the limited coil?
I'm fairly sure all the black coils did not have limiters in them. And you should absolutely not have the high screw turned all the way in! You'll blow the saw up from a lean run.
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
Throw that tach in the bin. Learn how to tune by ear and "feel".
four-stroking is distinctly different sounding than 2 stroking.
what's wrong with 13000? What is max for that saw? 13500? Being 500rpm below max safe allowable is perfectly fine, as long as it runs clean in the cut.
that being said, you may have a fuel delivery problem.
as already stated DO NOT TURN THE HIGH SCREW ALL THE WAY IN! It should be at least 1 turn out, probably closer to 1 and 1/4 out..
four-stroking is distinctly different sounding than 2 stroking.
what's wrong with 13000? What is max for that saw? 13500? Being 500rpm below max safe allowable is perfectly fine, as long as it runs clean in the cut.
that being said, you may have a fuel delivery problem.
as already stated DO NOT TURN THE HIGH SCREW ALL THE WAY IN! It should be at least 1 turn out, probably closer to 1 and 1/4 out..
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
Yea nothing is wrong with being under the max. The saw is rated to 14500 with people supposedly running around 14200 comfortably.
I just went and backed it out 1.25 turns to be safe for tomorrow.
And the damned thing is still leaking bar oil after applying motoseal. %&$!!
This oil leakage is just 2.5 hours of sitting with it freshly cleaned.
Oh, it's 14500. 13000 is low then.
Sounds like a limited coil
You can close your high jet down if it needs it on 3-series saws.
I have done it lots on ported 372's and 357 and at times it had too much 4 stroke. Just depends on the porting, elevation, season + as to where it's going to sit.
Never ran a 266 less than half.
I believe they lowered them to a limited 14100 coil after the first year or two.
You can close your high jet down if it needs it on 3-series saws.
I have done it lots on ported 372's and 357 and at times it had too much 4 stroke. Just depends on the porting, elevation, season + as to where it's going to sit.
Never ran a 266 less than half.
I believe they lowered them to a limited 14100 coil after the first year or two.
Yeah 1 1/2turns on the low is way too rich
That is likely why it won't come up to rev would be my guess
7/8 L & 3/4 H to start
That is likely why it won't come up to rev would be my guess
7/8 L & 3/4 H to start
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
OK so clockwise everything until it starts to tighten.
Go 7/8 counterclockwise on the Low
Go 3/4 counterclockwise on the high
I'll do that tomorrow. Thank you.
I just checked my coil. It looks like an unlimited coil.
Yup, I'm always thinking fat settings to start and missed the way out on the low screw underwear said. Did I spell that wrong? Ha!
No, you are right, If we are teaching
someone how to set up the low then you DON'T want them to start on the lean side ..especially with minimal communication. I agree. I was (and will) walk him through the low setting.
Fair play.
Hopefully he checks in here before he starts setting it up.
The low needs to be right, firstly.
I will walk you through the low setting a bit different than I originally was last night.
So your factory setting are at one turn out each on those saws for reference.
Just go one turn on the low and half on the high to warm it up.
The high isn't important right now.
Low speed jet
1) clean air filter
2)let it warm up a little bit
3) turn your throttle so the chain is fully spinning smoothly.
* make sure the chain is NOT overly snug.
Slowly turn low jet clockwise.
You are looking for the spot (sweet spot) where the chainsaw is running fastest and smoothest so when you slowly pass by it the saw will start to run slightly rougher as the saw is showing signs of fuel starvation. If you continue from there then the saw will cough and then stall if you keep going.
Absolutely you want to recognize the signs and dial it into the sweet spot.
You can practice going back & forth until you are comfortable with what you are doing.
If you do stall it then just make sure you dial it back plenty to restart it and go again.
Now once you have established the end of that sweet spot then turn counter clockwise 1/4 turn and set your throttle down.
*It's just much easier to identify for people with the chain racing but it's not necessary.
now you can set your high jet up.
If you are just bucking wood and not slashing with it then 14,000 is probably more than enough RPM.
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
OK thanks I'll do low as you said and report back.
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
Sorry for being dim. For step 3 (tuning the low jet), am I doing this with the trigger depressed the entire time?
Pull and hold the trigger to get the chain moving but not screaming...adjust while it's moving.
