Get both new oil lines that should cure it.
New here - 346XP with a ground electrode that broke off in the cylinder
- Thread starter Underwhere
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Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
OK I have to redo the tune. After bucking a few times the saw dies when not at WOT so I think I have the idle or L screw improperly set.
RED-85-Z51
Addicted to ArboristSite
Read the plug. Make a cut...kill it at the end and look at the plug, give you a good idea how close your H is. Also dont rule out an air leak if its suddenly starts not wanting to idle.
Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
I have the carb out. Gonna clean it today.
Also the H, L and Idle screws don't line up too well with the saw case. The screwdriver doesn't like to find the screws very well. I have to push up on the carb to make the holes line up.
Gotta look at that too.
Also the H, L and Idle screws don't line up too well with the saw case. The screwdriver doesn't like to find the screws very well. I have to push up on the carb to make the holes line up.
Gotta look at that too.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think that you have a carb issue as well from your videos. It shouldn't sputter at WOT like it is doing. Likely stiff metering diaphragm. It is likely a Chicom aftermarket carb (or the wrong carb) if the adjustment screws don't line up. What are the markings on the existing carb? Others here can tell you what carb is supposed to be on that saw.
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
I just disassembled the carb and cleaned it. Carb cleaner through every jet and it sprayed clean. Everything looks good.
The adjusment screws were a little dirty and I don't think they were screwing in all the way. I would meet resistance and think it was all the way lean. It wasn't.
So I'm at a good starting point now.
I'll start with 1.25 out on the L and 1 turn out on the H.
I didn't see any markings on the carb.
The adjusment screws were a little dirty and I don't think they were screwing in all the way. I would meet resistance and think it was all the way lean. It wasn't.
So I'm at a good starting point now.
I'll start with 1.25 out on the L and 1 turn out on the H.
I didn't see any markings on the carb.
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
The alignment of adjustment screws
I push up on the red lever and it lines up better.
I push up on the red lever and it lines up better.
There's a black plastic piece that fits over the adjustment screws to help align the screwdriver for adjustment, someone who worked on this saw previously didn't replace it.The alignment of adjustment screws
I push up on the red lever and it lines up better.
That pump diaphragm is shot.
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
Ok. I guess not the biggest deal. I can live with it.
Ok thanks for that. I will look for a rebuild kit.
For right now the saw is working.
I just tuned it again.
Got it to idle, L screw like to be about 1.25 turns out.
H screw I am still having trouble hearing. It is clearly lean at 1 turn out. I'm about 1.25 to 1.5 turns out right now.
Is it 4 stroking at all? In the cut?
Seems like there's still an air leak, without going back, did you perform a pressure-vac test?
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
I didn't. I'm going to look that up.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
The metering diaphragm doesn't look healthy either! Time for a new carb or at least an OEM kit.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
I don't even know why people bother cracking a carb open without a new kit...
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
That looks like an OEM carb. There should be some numbers on it somewhere so that you can get the right kit for it. Kit should say "Zama" on the bag or it is Chicom JUNK!I just disassembled the carb and cleaned it. Carb cleaner through every jet and it sprayed clean. Everything looks good.
The adjusment screws were a little dirty and I don't think they were screwing in all the way. I would meet resistance and think it was all the way lean. It wasn't.
So I'm at a good starting point now.
I'll start with 1.25 out on the L and 1 turn out on the H.
I didn't see any markings on the carb.
OP, find something like
A tester is avaiable for less than a pair of OEM stihl oil seals.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Vac...rand=Unbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c100935.m2460
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
It should be an EL-32. Marking will be on the PTO side rear of the carb, opposite side of what he took pics of.
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
Yes it says EL32 132A.
So people suggest a Zama kit?
So people suggest a Zama kit?
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Underwhere
ArboristSite Member
Thanks.
So this RB-122 looks like it firs Zama carburetors. Is the EL-32 a Zama carb?
