New here: Introduction and a couple questions

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dakotalawdog

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
37
Reaction score
18
Location
Southwest Wisconsin
Howdy - I'm new here, but figure I'll be sticking around for a while, so I thought I would introduce myself. First off, the information I have found on this board in the last two weeks has been invaluable - I wish I found it a year ago. My wife and I bought a house w/ 40 acres in Southwest Wisconsin two years ago to escape the city. My job requires me to interact with some of the most foul people on the planet, so getting into the woods and firing up my saw is one chore I truly look forward to. Actually, I've found running chainsaws is kind of addicting.....

Anyways, 30 acres of our land is timber - mostly walnuts and a few oaks. I bought my first saw two years ago, a Stihl MS290 w/ 18" bar, just to clear brush and for firewood. There was a lot of downed and dead trees on the property, as no one had really done any real management in some time. For the last two winters, we have done almost all our heating with firewood from the property, which meant that 290 saw a lot of use. There were some days I dulled four chains out there cutting. Thinking back at how much I've cut, I should have probably started with something bigger.

Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, my 290 was dying when idling. Cleaned the air filter, adjusted the carb per the manual and continued cutting the 135 year old fallen oak. After 20 more minutes, she seized up. I had been thinking about picking up a bigger saw anyways, so
I bought an MS391 with a 20" bar. Definitely has more power than the 290 :rock: I'm real good with fixing guns, so I figured I'd try to rebuild the 290 and found my way here (never rebuilt an engine before). I scored the factory manual and am waiting on a new piston, so hopefully it will be up and running soon.

When I tore the 290 apart, of course, I found the piston was badly scored. Made me feel like a jerk, but live and learn. I want to make sure I do everything within my power to ensure this doesn't happen again. I realize there were things I did (or didn't do), that contributed/caused this to happen. My dealer blamed it on ethanol (without looking at it) - but I'm not 100% convinced. There are a few unanswered questions I have that I was hoping someone could clear up.

1) I did run quite a bit of E10 through the 290, which Stihl says is ok. Correct me if I am wrong, but ethanol essentially leans out your fuel/oil mixture? Anyways, the nearest place with ethanol-free fuel is only an extra 10 minute drive, so I am planning on that regardless. Does octane level matter in these engines? The only ethanol free gas I can get is premium (91) anyways, but I am curious.

2) I read the numerous threads on winter/summer operation modes and carb icing. My dealer said just to leave it in summer mode, unless it gets REALLY cold (in WI that means single digits or less). My question is this - when the air temperature drops, would the dense air not cause the engine to run leaner, which could potentially cause damage?

3) On the 290, I left the carburetor adjustment set as I got it from the dealer. It ran great on that setting in hot and cold weather for two years - until it started suddenly started dying at idle. Looking back, I see that was probably a "sign" of the impending doom, but I adjusted the carb per the manual - and it ran great for 20 minutes, until it seized. My father in law suggested running the carb richer - i.e. setting it so it bogs when I'm cutting, then backing it off a little until it doesn't. How do you guys adjust your carbs?

4) I probably did other stupid stuff, like finishing cutting with a dull chain instead of stopping and changing it - things I will not do again. Am I missing anything else? Seeing that kind of damage makes me think things were too lean and too hot, but as I said - I'm new to this, so any insight or advice is much appreciated. I know Stihl makes a great product, and the problems I had were "software" issues opposed to "hardware" so I'm hoping to fix those for the future.

Thanks again for all the insight this board has already provided. I'll be doing a lot of reading here....

My two saws (391 - right, and 290 - right, left and everywhere else)
View attachment 286678

and my destroyed piston :bang:
View attachment 286679
 
Welcome....

First, ethanol in fuel does nothing good for small motors, especially with old fuel. Leads to fuel line problems, much higher ethanol % than 10-15 are reportedly some who test and so on.

If a fuel problem, I wouldn't run any of that mix in the new saw.

Or, actually, do. Then sell both for parts here and get a Husqvarna or 2 :clap:


And with the old saw, check for other issues - others know a lot more, but it may equally be a different fault, not directly linked to fuel/tune - air leak?

Good luck anyway.
 
1) I did run quite a bit of E10 through the 290, which Stihl says is ok. Correct me if I am wrong, but ethanol essentially leans out your fuel/oil mixture? Anyways, the nearest place with ethanol-free fuel is only an extra 10 minute drive, so I am planning on that regardless. Does octane level matter in these engines? The only ethanol free gas I can get is premium (91) anyways, but I am curious.
Stihl USA's manual may say 10% Ethanol in fuel is OK to run in your saw, but believe it or not Stihl Canada's manual more or less suggests NOT running Ethanol fuel. Take that as you will...

I believe 89 Octane is the minimum recommended. 91 non-Ethanol would be perfect.

The problem with Ethanol is that it attracts moisture, and thus goes "bad" sooner. It is also potentially corrosive to certain intake components...
 
That piston looks like a classic lean failure to me. There are a lot of VERY knowledgeable folks here who will undoubtedly clear things up, but I'll try to throw in what I can provide as well.

1. If you can get non-ethanol fuel it’s certainly in your best interest as small engines don’t like it. That said, using ethanol fuel (which is usually sold at a max of 10%) with a good quality 2-cycle oil mixed at the proper ratio will not do that do a piston. Regarding octane level, yes, it can make a difference. It’s my understanding that a higher octane level indicates a fuel that can withstand a higher compression before detonation. This is relevant with higher compression engines, and is not a bad idea for your chainsaw. Your best bet is to get your hands on some high-octane ethanol free fuel with a good quality oil mixed in. Sounds like to have a good line on the fuel already!

2. This isn’t something I’m very knowledgeable in, but it would stand to reason, as you said, denser air would make your air/fuel ratio leaner.

3. Generally speaking, as long as your saw is stock the factory H & L settings should get you by in most/all circumstances. If (when) you start modding your saws that changes though. Regarding what your FIL suggested, that is certainly a tuning method a lot of guys use. Also, a lot of times guys will tune them so they just 4-stroke in air at WOT and steady out while cutting. It gets you to a nice rich, but proper and powerful air/fuel mix when cutting.

4. During your rebuild make sure all of your soft parts are good. The lean condition could have been caused by many things including air leaks in the system such as a hole in the intake or anywhere else. Hard telling what your local dealer would charge, but it's never a bad idea to do a thorough pressure & vacuum test on the saw to make sure everything is in good working condition before you put it back to work.

5. Lastly, as deepsouth eluded to, if you’re not 100% certain that the fuel mix you were using wasn’t the problem dispose of it and start fresh.

Good luck, and welcome to AS!
 
Welcome to AS.
Advice that my local dealer passed on to me:
1. Sharpen the chain with every refueling and check the depth gauges every other refueling. Perhaps just 2-3 file strokes, but a super-sharp chain is easier and safer for equipment and operator.
2. Before storing the saw for any extended period of time, dump the old fuel and run enough Motomix or equal to get all the old fuel out of the saw. Don't run the saw dry; leave some Motomix in the saw.
3. Always run premium gasoline. Dealer said E10 gas is OK as long as it is less than a month old.
4. Adjust the idle speed on the carb (LA) as necessary, but leave the low and high speed mixture adjustments to the dealer until you have the experience to do this properly.
5. Switching warm air carb shutter to winter setting not necessary until temp is 32º F or below.

My 2¢, run the best mix oil you can find; I use Stihl Ultra because I believe it has better lubrication and high temperature characteristics.

Just a guess, but the stalling at idle may have been the beginning of a seize due to bad fuel. The 290 is worth rebuilding as a backup saw. The cylinder may be salvageable with acid cleaning; however, it's important to determine the source of the original seize before running the saw again. More knowledgeable AS members will provide opinions and details for troubleshooting/rebuilding.
 
Last edited:
The saw dying at idle could be an air leak, if you rebuild the saw be sure to have it pressure and vacuum tested before you run it. If you have an air leak you will probably fry your new piston & cylinder
Usually when a crank seal starts leaking the saw won’t idle properly especially after the saw warms up, it will idle erratically, usually revving up than dying, if you adjusted the carb slightly leaner and had an air leak, well that’s probably what done it in. you can buy a pressure/vacuum tester and test yourself (there are some videos on YouTube), or take it to a reputable saw shop and have them test for leaks. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the info guys - this has definitely been educational and I know a hell of a lot more now about my saws than before.

I've replaced the piston, rings, and cylinder and will probably do the crank seals since they are cheap just to be sure. The hoses all look good, but I'll take it in for a pressure test when I get it back together. I got a hold of the shop manual, and I think I'll pick up one of the digital tachs for future tuning.


Edit: removed non sponsor link.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Welcome to AS

Welcome! I am new to AS as well. This is a great site with many extremely knowledgeable members!:msp_thumbsup::msp_thumbsup: Be careful, you may catch a case of CAD (Chainsaw Accumulation Disorder). I found this site and joined a couple weeks ago for help with a saw my grandpa had given me, next thing I know bought 4 parts saws on ebay, can't wait for them to get here so I can start my first saw build/rebuild:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Welcome to the madness...

Here you will find more information that you could imagine.

What I love about this place is if you ask a honest question, you will get lots of answers.

I love coming home from work, a stressfull crap day and working on saws, starting them and cleaning them.

Welcome to the madness.
 
10% ethanol in fuel is very hard on the rubber parts, especially in older units that were not made to withstand it. Carb diaphragms, fuel lines, crank seals, intake manifolds and gaskets etc will sometimes dissolve depending on how old they are.

Be careful with the high side carb adjustments. Many newer saws are coming with limited ignitions which mimic the four stroking sound of a correctly adjusted carb. The best way to tune these are either in the wood under load or with a tach. Under no circumstances do you want a lean high side so a little extra there can mean alot.

Fwiw Dakota, site sponsor Baileys offers and drop in aftermarket Stihl 390 block that will fit your 290 frame. The price is good especially when looking up the components individually. Take a look; Bailey's - NWP 49mm Short Block Cylinder for Stihl Chainsaws 029 039 MS290 MS310 MS390
 
Update on rebuild

I ended up getting a new Stihl 290 block, piston and rings off Ebay for $110 and some "hard" oil seals for $24. I checked all the hoses, they looked good but replaced one I tore when taking it off the saw, so the total into it was about $140.

I'm not a mechanical idiot, but I'm no mechanic. This was the first engine I've ever attempted to rebuild. It took about 8 hours, which I'm sure now that I've seen how things go together, I could do it a lot faster. I fired it up today, and it ran like a champ. It cuts like a new saw. In the process, I learned a ton about my saws, and realized I can tackle things I've paid other people to do in the past.

There was a ton of info I found on this board that was extremely helpful. Between that, the factory manual and youtube, pretty much all my questions were answered in short order. Thanks for the help, now I have two working saws! :rock: (I think I need a third....)

View attachment 291101
 
Welcome to AS and Congrats on the successful rebuild.
The 290 gets a bad rap around here but I have ran a couple and have muffler modded a couple and I personally think they are a good saw. Your 290 and 391 are "basically" twins with different piston and cylinders.
Now just watch out for CAD (chainsaw acquisition disorder), it has a tendency to sneak up on a guy and your already thinking about a third saw.
If you have the time on the 27th to venture down into Iowa for the GTG (short for get-together) you will find out what CAD is all about. And have a chance to run just about any saw you want.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top