Stihl 023 problems

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Anseeuw Dries

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Hey guys, i'm Dries, I live in Belgium. Owner of a stihl 023 with a problem ... I'm allready at 2 bandages ...

I bought a new carb & gasline for it for greater succes ... nope.

Can my ignition coil play tricks on me ?
Watched a lotta youtube videos allready to tune the carb

Have no idea what difference is in safety on/off when finetuning the carb ? I guess you start the chainsaw up with the safety lever activated an then switch ? Does it matter in wich 'mode' you tune the carb ?

Ignore the spark plug thingy ... I found the machine like this years ago in my dads shed.

Thank you for your help
 

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Do you have a good description of what you are having trouble with? Is it running too fast, not running at all, not idling, too rich, won't fire, etc.
 
Do you have a good description of what you are having trouble with? Is it running too fast, not running at all, not idling, too rich, won't fire, etc.
I got firing and then I tried to idle it and since then it won't run on 1. It does make the 'noise' on cold choke, so then I try to start it but no luck. I've been turning the screws on that aftermarket carb like an idiot and I don't know what to do anymore. I don't even know when to adjust properly ... Do i adjust in safety mode or in running mode ...

I've ordered a new coil an spark plug because maybe be the spark that is not consistent (strong) enough ? I've seen and read about coils wearing out and stil spark but not give enough spark or the color of the spark is yellow ish ... (should be blue ? )

Seen a lotta youtube last weeks ...
 
If its firing but not running I would look into getting a carb kit and rebuilding the original carb. Just the diaphragms even can make all the difference. Thats just a first thing to do, and they can be had for pretty cheap. If its the Zama carb I think the kit is RB-105 (I might be wrong..). If its still not running at all then a vacuum/pressure test is the next step to make sure the carb is in decent shape where you can't see.
 
If its firing but not running I would look into getting a carb kit and rebuilding the original carb. Just the diaphragms even can make all the difference. Thats just a first thing to do, and they can be had for pretty cheap. If its the Zama carb I think the kit is RB-105 (I might be wrong..). If its still not running at all then a vacuum/pressure test is the next step to make sure the carb is in decent shape where you can't see.
Yeah, I saw that the diapragms need to be in good shape, but my carb is completely new ... The vacuum/pressure test doesn't sound familiair to me, i'll look it up on youtube ...
 
If its an aftermarket carb sometimes they just ship as duds. Poor quality control. If you haven't yet, also check your fuel feed line and your fuel filter. Best idea is to always change those when you go into a saw. Both are reasonably cheap from OEM and just a new filter has fixed some saws for me in the past.
 
Replaced the fuel feed line and filter, came with the carb. Maybe i'll look into the carb if the 'new' coil doesn't help
 
Question, is the air filter housing supposed to be empty, I have no foam in it ? I do not have nr 20,21,22 ...
 

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If that fuel line and filter came with the AM carb, make sure fuel is coming out of the fuel hose. Known issue with AM parts. And yes, I would start over with the original carb is not corroded. The AM carb will have you running in circles.
 
Question, is the air filter housing supposed to be empty, I have no foam in it ? I do not have nr 20,21,22 ...

There are three different air filter set ups used, over the years, on those saws. Only one version uses the foam.

I agree with the others: firing the AM Parts Shotgun at a saw before knowing what's wrong is often a mistake.

At this point, I would be tempted to reinstall every single original part...set the carb to factory settings, test, and report your findings here.

Now is not the time to be buying new parts...especially, AM.

Roy
 
Just ordered a coil, so if that doesn't show up I will def use the carb with Stihl on it, I think it was a Wabron ...
 
I got firing and then I tried to idle it and since then it won't run on 1. It does make the 'noise' on cold choke, so then I try to start it but no luck. I've been turning the screws on that aftermarket carb like an idiot and I don't know what to do anymore. I don't even know when to adjust properly ... Do i adjust in safety mode or in running mode ...

I've ordered a new coil an spark plug because maybe be the spark that is not consistent (strong) enough ? I've seen and read about coils wearing out and stil spark but not give enough spark or the color of the spark is yellow ish ... (should be blue ? )

Seen a lotta youtube last weeks ...
"I've been turning the screws on that aftermarket carb like an idiot and I don't know what to do anymore."
Turn both H and L all the way in. Gently, clockwise until you feel resistance.
Back each out, counter clockwise, 1 1/2 turn. That's a starting point.
Personally, I am putting my money on the impulse tube. jmho :cool: OT
Hope you get it going. Good little saws. Be sure to let us know what you did to get it running.
 
Impulse tube huh, is that the lil hole you see that some people refer as intake ? When I fitted the gasket/seal my dad told me to make sure that hole is 'free/open'.
 
Hey roy

He didn't have one, so i found the 'impuls line' after removing the orange casing & pullstarter casing. It was not broken or dried up and I blew thrue it with my mouth so there was flow coming thro .... I'm really lookin forward to another coil% spark plug. And i'm also gonna try all the spark plugs he has laying around ... it should have at least 5-15thousand Ohms ?
 
As a general rule, when I get a saw, I track down the owner's manual, the shop manual, and the IPL.

I happen to have those for your saw, and just PMed them to you. Generally, you ask for them in the Beg For Manuals thread, on this site.

Plugs do fail...seemingly, way more frequently in a saw than in a car. Having a new plug around for each saw, for testing is a good idea. Plugs are one of the many parts which are often counterfeit. Buy a name brand plug from a trusted source. Not Ebay. Not Amazon.

Roy
 
As a general rule, when I get a saw, I track down the owner's manual, the shop manual, and the IPL.

I happen to have those for your saw, and just PMed them to you. Generally, you ask for them in the Beg For Manuals thread, on this site.

Plugs do fail...seemingly, way more frequently in a saw than in a car. Having a new plug around for each saw, for testing is a good idea. Plugs are one of the many parts which are often counterfeit. Buy a name brand plug from a trusted source. Not Ebay. Not Amazon.

Roy
Thanks for the manual, I found one as well but could not 'save' it on my computer. I'm usually only using, champion or ngk. I got one with my carb kit but its screams chinese al over the place.
 
So, replaced the coil with an AM coil, same ****, i'm really starting to believe the AM carb is just unadjustable or ontuneable. Sometimes I get it running, somethimes not, sometimes it wil idle, then when I try to tune it it goes burp ... Fathers gonna perform a compression test on the cilinder to look how many pressure it has. The carb that was on it when I got is a WT215 Walbro singapore ...
 
+1 for compression test.

I would remove muffler, and post pics of piston. Like the compression check...this is free.

I stand by this: "At this point, I would be tempted to reinstall every single original part...set the carb to factory settings, test, and report your findings here."

You have too many after-market balls in the air.

These are cool little saws. The effort will be worth it.

Roy
 
Thanks Roy, the whole afternoon did create some new blisters, now at 4.

Where would I get a good carb rebuild kit online ? And possibly fuel/vent/impulse line .... Or is that just a big maze to find quality
 

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