New Husqvarna burned up using factory premix

[toadman]

Yes, you bought premixed fuel with the assumption that it was good fuel. People buy that, fill up their weedeater, then refill it with gasoline and return it to the store for a refund. Sad, but true. The next guy buys it and runs it and ruins his saw. The cans for the most part are not tamper evident. Manufacturers are starting to implement tamper evident caps because of this issue.

Good point.
Hadn't occurred to me people would be that diabolical, but I could see it happening.
So it is technically my fault in a way, which is fine.
I already blamed myself, but I now need to fix it, and rebuilding these little saws is not hard, but it is not fun either.

 

[full chizel]

My opinion is that any one buying from Lowes will not get any refunds. If you can not do a top end rebuild then take it to a shop and have it done. Or for the same money just another saw and be done with it. An experienced OP would not have had that problem in the first place. It does not matter why or how or who is to blame because none of those things matter. Example in that I bought a brand new car a few years ago and drove it for four years with out a problem. I had gotten a warranty for ten years or 100K. The idle bearing for the timing belt started rattling more and more. I called the dealer and they asked me if the check engine light was on and I said no. They said unless the engine light is on they will not assist me with any repairs. They told me that if the timing belt breaks they will send a towing truck and pick up the car and make the repairs free of charge if they find that the defect was factory related. Then the check engine light came on when it started missing so called the dealer. They said that they had no record of the car being serviced so there would be a $400 fee for routine maintenance. So I told them I had already checked all fluids and changed the oils. They said to have warranty work done they had to do it. Then he says likely would have to leave the car at the dealership over night or more. I said thanks no. So changed the ignition replaced bearings for under a hundred bucks. Yes it took me a day to make the repairs and void the warranty so what. Thanks

Sounds like you need a new car dealer. Nothing requires you to have routine maintenance done at the dealer to get warranty work. If a car dealer requires me to have routine maintenance done at the dealer, they better be providing the service for free.

 

[noodlewalker]

Good point.
Hadn't occurred to me people would be that diabolical, but I could see it happening.
So it is technically my fault in a way, which is fine.
I already blamed myself, but I now need to fix it, and rebuilding these little saws is not hard, but it is not fun either.

People for the most part are jerks. Especially the guys that buy mixed fuel from box stores. They typically don't use it very often, so they don't want to store it in their garage. They use what they need to for the one time in spring when their wife gets on them about the weeds in her garden. Then the take it back, because they know they won't need any again til next year.

 

[Dennis Gauge]

Here's the thing... How many times have you heard "I didn't straight gas it, honest!" and thought to yourself, "YEAHHHH, RIIIIIIIGHT!"

You take that saw to a dealer they're going to say it was straight gassed. You can slap a part-empty can of their own brand premix on the counter and swear on a stack of Bibles that is the fuel you used, but you have no way to PROVE it. The dealer has a saw that was clearly straight gassed sitting on the counter in front of him. Who is he going to believe? You, or the saw?

Standard operating procedure for the dealer is to assume YOU screwed up.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Sounds like you need a new car dealer. Nothing requires you to have routine maintenance done at the dealer to get warranty work. If a car dealer requires me to have routine maintenance done at the dealer, they better be providing the service for free.

I live an hour and a half from the closest Auto dealer with moderate traffic. To have a dealer have one of my vehicles for four hours will take a very long day to accomplish any thing. If the appointment happens while I have a planned project going on then the whole week is effected. When I buy some thing regardless of what happens I will never be back to the dealership for any reason. I can rebuild an engine inside of a week with a few hundred bucks and be on my way so dealing with a dealership has no benefits. Thanks

 

[OM617YOTA]

If you're going to get the canned fuel, it's cheaper by the case too. It's sealed in a box, and you're basically getting a can for free.

 

[woodfarmer]

Husky premix on top and my 40:1 on the bottom.They really think this is adequate?

 

[buzz sawyer]

Depends on how much dye they put in the oil. I don't know how they measure the oil in the pre-mix cans, but I know how I measure my mix. I'll stay with what I know. If I have leftover fuel, I can always put it in mu truck.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Dye is not oil. MX2T had no dye, fantastic stuff though.

Trufuel looks clear when you pour it. You shine a light in the bottle and you can see color. I've poured it and gone wtf, had to take another look. All was well, and I've had zero issues. For the tiny amount of fuel I use, I love the stuff.

 

[lone wolf]

Here's the thing... How many times have you heard "I didn't straight gas it, honest!" and thought to yourself, "YEAHHHH, RIIIIIIIGHT!"

You take that saw to a dealer they're going to say it was straight gassed. You can slap a part-empty can of their own brand premix on the counter and swear on a stack of Bibles that is the fuel you used, but you have no way to PROVE it. The dealer has a saw that was clearly straight gassed sitting on the counter in front of him. Who is he going to believe? You, or the saw?

Standard operating procedure for the dealer is to assume YOU screwed up.

Yup that is the first thing they say that and too much Ethanol!

 

[RED-85-Z51]

You have to keep in mind the techs persepctive. Someone brings me a Vtwin that kicked both rods and says "it was running fine, lost power and clunk it shut off". I drain exactly 2 quarts of clean fresh oil out of the motor with streaks of black and alot of metal...i have to tell them it 1. Was run with no oil and 2. New oil doesn't have healing properties.

Ive had saws come in with the piston smeared over the ring...tank full of mix. I clamp the fuel line, remove the carb and open it up over a clean white paper towel...looking for mixed gas. I know...when its clear and devoid of lube, they straight gassed it and then dumped in oil.

Techs go by evidence...what we can see and we try to trace the failure back to something we can explain. Honestly i listen but ignore the story...i dont let it sway my thoughts on what might be the reason for a failure.

Every so often youll get one like an ms260...good mix in it, clearly cared for as far as being beat around or left outside...not alot of use on it...low compression, piston dark with streaks of melt. No obvious air leaks, mix present in the carb itself...oil tank bone dry, no evidence of oil sling off, bar discolored and chain slacked...chain very very dull. Test fuel in the tank..18% ethanol. Diagnosis..saw was run too lean and pushed too far with a dull chain running dry. New piston and cylinder go on..fresh fuel, runs great. Sell customer an Ethanol Tester...bar and chain.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I don't want to be a naysayer, but I just pulled the muffler on one of my my Stihl 193t's to potentially sell it... This saw has only seen about 2 tanks of fuel since I bought it new (I bought 2 193T's at the same time) and is un-modded in any way. I only used husky premix.
Pretty pissed, my using premix was to eliminate any error in my own mixing, prolong the saw's life, and so I could leave it in the car trunk without worrying about my plastic can exploding.
It has some decently bad looking scoring on the piston, and I don't feel comfortable selling it this way. which sucks, as I do need the money ATM.
Saw runs well, with 175psi compression and passed vac and pressure tests with flying colors, but is badly scored none the less.

I normally use corn free 96 octane race fuel I buy in drums in all my saws, and I have a few saws that have run 180+ gallons of that stuff over the years, with brand new looking internals.

That’s a tuning issue surly, 50:1 works just fine. Did the premix can have a broken seal?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Ive had saws come in with the piston smeared over the ring...tank full of mix. I clamp the fuel line, remove the carb and open it up over a clean white paper towel...looking for mixed gas. I know...when its clear and devoid of lube, they straight gassed it and then dumped in oil.

Bloody brilliant i like this a lot! I’d like to see the customers face when they realise their fuel trick didn’t work!

 

[Deleted member 117362]

That’s a tuning issue, 50:1 works just fine. Sure a bit more oil is a good thing to increase longevity over the decades that the saw will last, but 2 tanks and you are seeing that damage isn’t the mix, it’s your tuning.

If he did not remove limiters, I doubt he did that. New saws, like any other engine could have a manufacturing defect or assembly defect. They should hand him a new saw and send it back to Husqvarna.

 

[toadman]

That’s a tuning issue surly, 50:1 works just fine. Did the premix can have a broken seal?

There's no seal on premix, just a child proof cap... at least not on any of the stuff I have seen for sale or bought.
I didn't do any tuning to the saw or mods whatsoever. It seemed to run great, revs quick and easy, and cuts well for what it is.
Being brand new, and running as well as it does, I didn't feel it needed any carb tuning.
It was intended as a backup/ dedicated car-trunk-saw and unless something happened to my main 193, I wasn't going to use it much outside of trees being down across the road.
I had 3 trees down on my way to work, and thats the only use it's seen...

 

[toadman]

You have to keep in mind the techs persepctive. Someone brings me a Vtwin that kicked both rods and says "it was running fine, lost power and clunk it shut off". I drain exactly 2 quarts of clean fresh oil out of the motor with streaks of black and alot of metal...i have to tell them it 1. Was run with no oil and 2. New oil doesn't have healing properties.

Ive had saws come in with the piston smeared over the ring...tank full of mix. I clamp the fuel line, remove the carb and open it up over a clean white paper towel...looking for mixed gas. I know...when its clear and devoid of lube, they straight gassed it and then dumped in oil.

Techs go by evidence...what we can see and we try to trace the failure back to something we can explain. Honestly i listen but ignore the story...i dont let it sway my thoughts on what might be the reason for a failure.

Every so often youll get one like an ms260...good mix in it, clearly cared for as far as being beat around or left outside...not alot of use on it...low compression, piston dark with streaks of melt. No obvious air leaks, mix present in the carb itself...oil tank bone dry, no evidence of oil sling off, bar discolored and chain slacked...chain very very dull. Test fuel in the tank..18% ethanol. Diagnosis..saw was run too lean and pushed too far with a dull chain running dry. New piston and cylinder go on..fresh fuel, runs great. Sell customer an Ethanol Tester...bar and chain.

I played with thermocouples & recorded temps on a few of my saws in high school for a project, and I found my one saw part way through the day was running absurdly high cylinder temps compared to earlier in the day... long story short, I'd rocked the chain. That buggered edge alone was good for over a 120*F rise in thermocouple readings on the cylinder top by the plug.
I sharpened the chain, and my recorded temps dropped back down 120* to roughly 410*f and held steady with the bar burried in oak. without the thermocouple I wouldn't have known how much a dull chain effects the saw.

 

[toadman]

I don't want to be a naysayer, but I just pulled the muffler on one of my my Stihl 193t's to potentially sell it... This saw has only seen about 2 tanks of fuel since I bought it new (I bought 2 193T's at the same time) and is un-modded in any way. I only used husky premix.
Pretty pissed, my using premix was to eliminate any error in my own mixing, prolong the saw's life, and so I could leave it in the car trunk without worrying about my plastic can exploding.
It has some decently bad looking scoring on the piston, and I don't feel comfortable selling it this way. which sucks, as I do need the money ATM.
Saw runs well, with 175psi compression and passed vac and pressure tests with flying colors, but is badly scored none the less.

I normally use corn free 96 octane race fuel I buy in drums in all my saws, and I have a few saws that have run 180+ gallons of that stuff over the years, with brand new looking internals.

For what it's worth, I did contact my favorite shop to ask if he thought it might be defective from the factory or if it was my fault & he called back and told me; (paraphrased) "Doesn't matter. I can warranty anything that new, that's made by Stihl... It'll be fixed right, and won't cost you (me) anything"
This makes me happy

 

[OM617YOTA]

For what it's worth, I did contact my favorite shop to ask if he thought it might be defective from the factory or if it was my fault & he called back and told me; (paraphrased) "Doesn't matter. I can warranty anything that new, that's made by Stihl... It'll be fixed right, and won't cost you (me) anything"
This makes me happy

That guy deserves a bottle or a sixxer of his preferred poison.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I played with thermocouples & recorded temps on a few of my saws in high school for a project, and I found my one saw part way through the day was running absurdly high cylinder temps compared to earlier in the day... long story short, I'd rocked the chain. That buggered edge alone was good for over a 120*F rise in thermocouple readings on the cylinder top by the plug.
I sharpened the chain, and my recorded temps dropped back down 120* to roughly 410*f and held steady with the bar burried in oak. without the thermocouple I wouldn't have known how much a dull chain effects the saw.

I had a Mychron from my kart days and hooked up the tach/cht/egt on a newer Kawasaki twin that the customer had dropped not one but two valve heads in...both instances resulted in scattered pistons. He swore up and down that his insistence on running 3/4 or half throttle all day had no bearing on it because it was air cooled and the heat produced was directly proportionate to the air movement.

I installed a thermocouple in his muffler at the merge point...and one cylinder head temp lead...and the tach signal pickup....ziptied it to a lap bar and pointed him at my field...set him at 2900 rpms. In 10 minutes he came back...egts were high...cht was high. He was at 1300ish egt and cht was just over 400*

I bumped him up to wide open 3550 on the governor..blades on. Mowed some more...cht down to 340s...egt just over 1000.

He mows full throttle now...no more valve issues since.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[mike-s]

Husky premix on top and my 40:1 on the bottom.They really think this is adequate?

You think the blue is oil? Nope. Oil isn't blue. It's dye they put in the oil, and color isn't an indication of how much oil is in the gas, unless it's exactly the same oil being used.