New Landowner, need guidance on chainsaw purchase

[CentaurG2]

Clearing an acre of land without, at least, a decent chipper and some hydraulics is a large undertaking. You might be better off hiring the job out. If you really want to give it a go yourself, you can rent a chainsaw and give it a try before you purchase one. If you want to buy, stick with a name brand that has good dealer support in your area. I cleared a 3 acre lot last year with a 346xp, an ms361 and a 372xp for flushing the stumps.

 

[Country1]

I was hoping to get the wood cut this summer, before the basement gets dug (next spring). I had the thought that I could get the wood cut up and stacked, then the excavator doing the basement could just pull the stumps and fill at that time. It doesn't seem like a lot of extra work for me to fell the tree now.

However, I do like the idea of getting the stumps out of the way and the holes filled now, so I can start cleaning up the rest of the property... you think it would cost $500 to knock over a few dozen trees?

I realize you bought some land and are eagerer to start making your dreams a reality, but I think you might be moving too fast here...

It's a fine thought to buy a saw and start clearing your home site, but there is much more to it than that. Are you doing this by yourself? Do you have plans to have any equipment on site to move the cut logs and slash? You did say you were clearing 1 acer for house and yard right? That's a lot of area and you are going to create huge piles of brush and logs...

Walt41 said $500 when we thought you'd already have the equipment and operator on site and I don't think that will be close to enough to do the amount of extra work you'd need.

Again, I think you need to rethink some of this before you spend money on a saw and set out falling trees. Come up with a good solid plan. You'd be amazed at how fast the trees will stack up once they're on the ground and have no where to move them...

Just my thinking...

 

[cedarman]

the weight off the falling tree is what is going to cause the trunk to uproot making the job overall quicker and easier.

id rather pay an operator to push over the trees now, rather than having him dig up the root later. less work on the equipment and probably cheaper in the long run.

digging up a big root is not as easy as you think.

 

[Country1]

Exactly right. Depending on the species of tree and sizes, it would take me 3 or 4 times longer to remove a stump than the whole tree. Leverage is your friend... This obviously equates to dollar signs for you the customer...

 

[Biker Dude]

Think outside the box and get a makita or dolmar.

Throw away the box.

The Pro Mac 610 can be had anywhere in good running condition for $100 and after you are done clearing it can sit in your garage for decades and still fire up when you need it, and still be worth the same $100 you paid for it if you decide to sell it later and upgrade. Parts and parts saws are plentiful, it's bulletproof and dead reliable and 4 hp to boot. They came from the factory with a 20" bar and can pull a 24" bar and full chisel chain if they are tuned well. 90% of us here had a PM610 as our fist saw and if it worked for us, why not you?

I do agree with the idea of knocking the trees over before cutting them up as long as it doesn't become a tangled pile of trees. It's very difficult and dangerous to cut in a pile of trees, I wouldn't recommend it. As for what to do with the wood after you buck it up, that's simple. You have 3 acres and you are clearing 1/3 of that. Split and stack the wood in rows between trees on your land and let it season till fall when you can sell it for firewood or just leave it until your house is done and maybe get a wood burner yourself.

I would burn the brush right on top of where your house will go because the heat of burning brush piles tends to destroy microbes in the dirt that promote plant growth unless you burn many small fires so as to not heat the ground too much. At least that's what my farmer friend told me.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

if you do decide to drop the trees rather than let a dozer knock them over you need to leave adequate amount of stump aboveground so the dozer can stay in contact with the stump rather than riding up and over. a short stump will really cause the dozer operator extra work and extra money. usually a 3-foot stump is adequate but to be sure you should consult with whoever you have in mind for stump removal. lot more to it than just knocking trees down. also depends on soil types too.

 

[Warped5]

The overlooked obvious solution

I have read this thread with great interest. Many solutions/paths have been suggested, all with their own merits.

I would like to suggest the same two words that will solve practically any dilemma encountered in life when applied correctly: plastic explosive.

 

[RiverRat2]

I'm gonna buck the trend here in the name of practicality over saw lust.

Best bang for the buck in that list, would be a Factory refurbed Husky 455.
$300 bucks thereabouts with full factory warranty.

Yeah, it's heavy for it's power output, is slower than some others, and is not a Pro saw.

So what. The things are reliable as hell, and take abuse newbies, Farm hands, and inattentive firewooders hand out.

a single acre of 20"Maples will only take a couple days of cutting to clean up, and then the saw will be semi-retired.

No point in dumping more cash than needed, and in the same price range the only real challenger would be the more expensive 290...that is just the Stihl version of a 455.

If a guy was going to be doing a lot of cutting and for years, yeah, something lighter,faster, and more robust would be logical. So would a special shed just for saws.

Must we infect every newbie with the CAD Virus?
Seriously.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

I'm gonna buck The yote's buzzkill!!!!!

Home depot used rental centers sell low hour Makita 6401's for around 200.00
I have had one over three years 64cc's still works fine and I have used and abused it,,, its a Dolmar in Makita blue plastic,,, tough as nails,,,, still runs fine

 

[oldsaw]

I think the idea of "a plan" is the best choice here. The idea of getting in and cutting down some trees is most certainly a fun one, but a "willy-nilly" approach isn't what you need. Cut trees need to be moved, and if you can't get access with some kind of motorized transportation, you are going to have a mess. Let's face it, cutting trees is a lot of work. For every minute the saw runs, you are going to spend 5 or 10 minutes dealing with the consequences. That's assuming that you are familiar with how to run a saw and fall a tree. Yeah, logisitics and safety issues, I'm a total "drag" (and not in the cross dressing type), and bringing you "down".

Lay out your access path, and mark out your site. You have the space, do it so it feels right. You would hate to knock down a bunch of nice trees that you didn't need to after the house was built. Yes, trees are fun to cut down, but they are also nice to look at. As a new landowner, you need to look at how to best manage your new little forest over the long term. Cut out the crap, protect the nice trees, and build around that plan.

You may be able to work with the heavy equipment operator to have him knock down a few trees, then move to another part of the plot while you cut off the root balls, then have him push the root balls to one pile, and the logs into another. We had a construction guy at one time who would pull out the logs he thought we would like and have them laid out in a real nice order for us. We liked him. It can be done. Just don't be in a hurry. This is a real opportunity to have something nice. Think the process through, and think about how you are going the spent that extra 10 minutes of work for that minute you just ran the saw.

Now, as someone else mentioned, try renting a saw, or going to a GTG to get some "hands on" experience. You are going to need one, and realistically, one in the 50-60cc range. Look at used, look at Stihl, Husky, or Dolmar/Makita. I've never owned a new saw in my life, and probably never will. Too cheap. The GTG is a great idea, since you will get not only a chance to run some saws, but a chance to learn how to do stuff...sort of. Then there is the beer part, but that comes later. Hell, if you wish to get really cheap, find a good Homelite XL12 or Super XL for $50 and cut away. I paid $20 for mine, and have run the crap out of it. No chain brake, loud, slow, and heavy, but it has to be one of the most satisfying saws to run ever. It's just so "right". Perfect saw for "lot maintenance" and for the times you just have to cut something. Some will argue this point, none will have ever run one.

 

[altimus_prime]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I agree, having a plan is important. Here is my current plan:

After the engineers have marked off the house lines, my architect and myself will walk the property deciding which trees stay and which go. Most of the trees in the middle acre will go to make room for the house and the yard. The front acre will be cleaned up and any unsightly trees will go, the rest will stay for privacy between the house and road. The back acre will probably be untouched except for anything that has already fallen.

Once we have marked the trees that are going, I will do one tree at a time. Fell the tree, buck it, stack it in a pile right there to be dealt with after I've finished bucking the rest of the trees. After all of the trees have been felled and bucked, I will rent a log splitter. I will drag that around the property with my tractor and split the wood, then haul the split wood to the back of the property with my tractor, where it will be neatly stacked.

All of the brush will be separated into two piles - things I can chip and things that must burn. I will rent a wood chipper to chip what I can, then burn the rest in my nice new open yard. The roots will be pulled up when they come to dig the basement next spring. I will make sure to leave enough trunk for a dozer to grab onto.

I have run a chainsaw numerous times in the past. My dad owns 2 acres and I helped him clear an acre of that, as well as maintain the wooded parts over the last 15 years. I first ran a chainsaw when I was about 13 or 14. Now I'm 30. I'm not "experienced", but I've felled a number of trees and bucked many more on my own. I'm well aware of the need for safety and to take my time and plan things out - which is why I've given myself an entire summer to clear 1 acre. I'm in no rush. I appreciate that from my brief description you might think I'm just jumping in and have not thought this out, but I've done this once with my dad, and have a very good idea of what I'm getting myself into and how much work it is.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

yeah! cutting in the summer. hehe. that's always fun. however, go forth and conquer. best to ya.

 

[altimus_prime]

yeah! cutting in the summer. hehe. that's always fun. however, go forth and conquer. best to ya.

You only use your chainsaw in the winter?

 

[CentaurG2]

Well it sounds like you have a plan. If you are still taking recommendations, I would shoot for a Makita DCS-6421. The site sponsor Baileys lists a new Makita for about $590. A bit more than you want to spend but it is a pro grade saw that is built like a dump truck and it can pull a 24” bar without issue. If you want to try it before purchase, most Home Depots rent Makita 6401 chainsaws. I think they are about $40 bucks for half day. Same saw withou the CAT muffler on the 6421. Best buy for the buck.

You should be able to get a husky 346xp for under $500. Good saw but it is more at home limbing rather than bucking. Stihl has a new ms261 on the market. List price is something near $570. No trigger time on this one but it is reported to have something that resembles grunt. Both pro saws that will hold good resale value if you want to bail after your project. Good luck.

 

[altimus_prime]

Absolutely still taking recommendations (and advice)! I said I had a plan, didn't say it was a good one . I am especially interested in the saws though. I haven't really looked at Makita's, but keep hearing about them and Dolmar's. I'll have to start reading up on them.

Regarding CAT mufflers - it seems like everyone that uses a chainsaw hates them - why are the manufacturers putting them on? Is it just to meet "green" standards?

 

[CentaurG2]

Makita is the parent company of Dolmar. The dolmar 6400, 7300 and 7900 have the exact same chassis as the Makita 6401 and 6424. To convert a 6401 to a 7900, you simply bolt on a larger piston and cylinder. Rest of the saw, including the carb, stays the same. Cost about $200. A dolmar 7900 will rock you world. Best power to weight of any stock saw I have used. CAT technology is an EPA mandate and it causes a restriction in the muffler as well as a pile of heat. The restriction limits the power of the saw and extra heat is never a good thing for an air cooled engine.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

You only use your chainsaw in the winter?

nah. that's why i know how much fun it is in the summer. drink LOTS of water.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

okay, this is probly gonna turn into a free-for-all but here goes anyway. don't overlook the Efco saws. professional saws, good price, good rep, well-built, plus 5-year warranty for homeowner use (2-year for professional).
But, most importantly, unless you're mechanically inclined and willing to spend the time you should go with whatever brand has a GOOD dealer/mechanic in your neck of the woods. Otherwise, you will love the saw until it needs some luving.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

3, 2, 1

 

[dingeryote]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I agree, having a plan is important. Here is my current plan:

After the engineers have marked off the house lines, my architect and myself will walk the property deciding which trees stay and which go. Most of the trees in the middle acre will go to make room for the house and the yard. The front acre will be cleaned up and any unsightly trees will go, the rest will stay for privacy between the house and road. The back acre will probably be untouched except for anything that has already fallen.

Once we have marked the trees that are going, I will do one tree at a time. Fell the tree, buck it, stack it in a pile right there to be dealt with after I've finished bucking the rest of the trees. After all of the trees have been felled and bucked, I will rent a log splitter. I will drag that around the property with my tractor and split the wood, then haul the split wood to the back of the property with my tractor, where it will be neatly stacked.

All of the brush will be separated into two piles - things I can chip and things that must burn. I will rent a wood chipper to chip what I can, then burn the rest in my nice new open yard. The roots will be pulled up when they come to dig the basement next spring. I will make sure to leave enough trunk for a dozer to grab onto.

I have run a chainsaw numerous times in the past. My dad owns 2 acres and I helped him clear an acre of that, as well as maintain the wooded parts over the last 15 years. I first ran a chainsaw when I was about 13 or 14. Now I'm 30. I'm not "experienced", but I've felled a number of trees and bucked many more on my own. I'm well aware of the need for safety and to take my time and plan things out - which is why I've given myself an entire summer to clear 1 acre. I'm in no rush. I appreciate that from my brief description you might think I'm just jumping in and have not thought this out, but I've done this once with my dad, and have a very good idea of what I'm getting myself into and how much work it is.

That is very similar to what we ended up doing when we built this house.
Flag evertything out, plan your felling and clearing for the end product.

Knocking the trees over with the excavator saves time digging stumps later, and if you leave 3' or so for the bucket to lever against, it helps the operator.
Remember that Machine time is $$.

If you can, flag the trees you want outta there and have someone with an excavator come in and push them out while you cut stumps off, so he can pile up the stumps for burning along with the brush and Tops. No chipper needed if you have time and fire.
Stumps take forever to burn though, and I'm still burning on a few, years later.
Hauling them off costs $$$.

If you're doing a basement, you're gonna have quite a bit of earth work done anyhow. Make sure the topsoil from the woodlot is saved for the lawn, and sand or other loose fill is used around the basement for drainage. Don't be paying for topsoil to be brought in when you already have it...it's hyper pricey!!

Just remember that it's gonna be 100+bucks to transport the excavator each way plus machine time for whatever ya do, and it adds up. You're gonna pay for the machine time on the stumps or pushing the trees either way and you can dodge the extra load and unload fee by just cutting the stumps high.


The 346 will handle a 20" bar, but you're getting back to your limit on $$
The Home Depot Rental Makita 6401's are nice, if ya can snag one.
The 455 Huskys can be had refurbed for around 300 bucks all day long and have full warranty.

The 460? Just a 455 with a bit more oomph, and not enough to justify the extra $$$ really.

Then there is the used option.
Look in the trading post here. Lotsa good Pro saws out there for under 500 bucks that have plenty of life left in them.

Good luck to ya!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[Chris J.]

Lot's of good advice being offered. I'll echo the reccomendation of checking the classified here if you decide a used saw is the way to go, there are guys here who do top quality rebuilds and will stand by the saws they sell. At a GTG you might be able to test some saws that AS members are willing to sell.