New saw advice.

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But what was wrong with his saw that cost $300.00 to fix? I think his dealer bent him over, which sucks. But honestly, an electronic carb is nothing to be scared of. Husqy or stihl for that matter, they have proven to be very reliable over the years.
 
Still curious what other saw(s) he has, maybe another saw isnt actually needed.

Sure, I'll like a 100+ cc saw with a 32" bar, do I need one?
 
Agree to disagree.

:yes:Same as an 034 Super except those ran better.

Probably

Mine runs good, and surely has some of the best antivibe available. Gotta run lots of mix oil I think. Keep the clutch needle bearing oily. Granted, mine is still very low hours. They're more reliable than the comparable Husky's of the day, which cratered regularly. Which also created a mass exodus in my world to Stihls. Predominantly 362's, 441's and 461's. Imo, the 441 was the turd of that bunch. The problem with the 362 is that it's needlessly complicated in its construction. Kind-of a Stihl thing at the time and going forward from then.

Anyway, I like my old 362 lots.
 
I literally picked up a new MS362 with a 24 inch bar on it today. I wanted a long term reliable all around saw to compliment a pretty hot MS440 I have. I also have a chinee kit MS361 with 20 inch bar that I hotrodded a bit with ported big bore, muff mod and the carb out of a 440. Problem with it is it uses the same amount of fuel as a 440 without doing as much work. Bunch lighter of course. And I find I am constantly fussing with the carburetor tune. Learned a lot but wanted the reliability of the OEM Stihl.

Stihl makes a couple versions of the MS362: The C-M model with Mtronic carb, and the plain ol MS362 model with regular carburetor. I got the later so I can port and mod later with better ease.

I am getting older at nearing mid 60's. My hands don't like the heavier saws any longer. For falling, I'll grab the 440 and go to it. Dropped a 54 inch ponderosa next to the house recently. Can handle anything around the northwest with those two saws.IMG_2064.jpeg
 
So parts are readily available for that Pro Mac 700. If they will last 40+ years, can he buy a new one, or expect the saw to run 80 years?
Yeah I bought one last January, 40years he probably won't have to worry about it running. My car is 50+ years old, jeep is 30 now?
Well maintained equipment should last you a lifetime, the expectation that it wont is sad.
 

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You lost me on this one. Old cars are for hobbyists, same with old saws. Driving an old car/truck every day will nickel and dime you to death, and in the north rust will eventually kill a car good, rubber and plastic breaks down too. People drive way more now and 250,000+ miles on a car in ten years is common. I was driving a 88 Ranger with 300,000 on the clock until 2014 someone cut in front of me, that was that. She was well maintained but rust was killing her, it was old and I never went too far. Old saws are cool, but most will make your hands go numb, and parts are hard to come by, they're for collectors not someone that uses as saw all day. You must not drive much or go very far with those old things, are they rebuilt? Very few things last a lifetime, and to make then is often not worth the cost, you have to know when to move on and not waste time or money.

Nice 700 by the way! :cheers:
 
Not to hijack, but partially related, what saws would most consider too large for a 20” bar? My father always had a 20” bar first on an 041av, then on a Johnsred super 930, i bought my 385xp equipped with a 20” and got a 28 along with it, he strongly objected until the first time he used it, by th next day he had a 28” on the 930. Now the 2 390‘s each have 28’s and the only 20 Is on my 562xp. The Stihl 440 I am working on acquiring I plan to put a 24 or 25” bar on as that is listed as the biggest available. When using the 20” I often find myself wishing it were just a little longer, but as it is in the truck most of the time, and I got it to have a small saw, I refrain.
 
You lost me on this one. Old cars are for hobbyists, same with old saws. Driving an old car/truck every day will nickel and dime you to death, and in the north rust will eventually kill a car good, rubber and plastic breaks down too. People drive way more now and 250,000+ miles on a car in ten years is common. I was driving a 88 Ranger with 300,000 on the clock until 2014 someone cut in front of me, that was that. She was well maintained but rust was killing her, it was old and I never went too far. Old saws are cool, but most will make your hands go numb, and parts are hard to come by, they're for collectors not someone that uses as saw all day. You must not drive much or go very far with those old things, are they rebuilt? Very few things last a lifetime, and to make then is often not worth the cost, you have to know when to move on and not waste time or money.

Nice 700 by the way! :cheers:
I think it would be hard to deny that the saws like a Xl12 or a Pro Mac 700 cut alot of wood, I doubt a fellow in 1978 was like "oh hell no I can't use that!".
I agree that modern saws have creature comforts that were only dreamed of ,but the fact remains that all of the total lumber cut ,the bulk was done with ( collector saws) .
The OP paid more to have his carburetor fixed then I paid for 2 of my pm700s and I drop plenty of trees with mine and cut firewood to heat the house with old poulan, homelite and macs.
I'm just saying that they're options for people who are strapped for cash, and if you put the monthly payment for a new car into an old car every month you'd have the most badass car or truck in your neighborhood .
 
The Stihl 440 I am working on acquiring I plan to put a 24 or 25” bar on as that is listed as the biggest available.

Every bar manufacturer, including Stihl, make bars 36 inch and even larger that fit that saw.

I bought a 28 inch Stihl ES Light for mine last year - will never go back to a heavy bar :D That saw came with a 28 inch from Stihl when new.
 
Seems the context on the size, type of trees and what is being cut is missing.

When is a saw too big? Personally (top handles are a bit of an exception), if the power head is longer than the bar; I'd consider using a smaller saw. Or if i am ground cutting and have to stooping/crouching excessively to make the cut, I'd use a larger saw with a longer bar.

Of what I use the most are 12" and 24" or 25", I do have a 20" bar but I hate using it. I am too tall and my trees are too big. Occasionally I have use for a 32" to fall and limb, 9/10 are hardwood trees or fir.

I dont do a lot of beam cutting, slot plunge, or carving obviously.

It should be readily apparent that as you go up in power and shorten your bar, tooth bite gets more aggressive and kickback becomes worse. Shortening that kickback arc means it rotates faster, too short and that chain brake will not help.
 
Out of the 60-75 cc saws I have the husky 372 gets an upvote from me... stihl 462 is nicer, with a hair more power & a bit less weight. Neith are my favorite saw, but my 372's have proved to be reliable, tough and very capable.
I got 2 372's used at the same time less than 500 total for both from a logging company. They had a very rough life before I got them & still chooch with the new ones.
I run a small firewood service for 3 months of the year, and typically cut, split and sell enough wood to pay off 2 new 661's in a year just by cutting junk wood from tree companies leavings into firewood the fall.
I don't need new saws, but it is a passion of mine and it supports itself. The guys love the 462, but it's expensive new.
Zero issues there so far, but I have yet to ruin a saw I bought new in the 7 years of cutting 45-60 12-14 hr days a year.
That said, the 372 is a good saw best production numbers at the end of the year besides my 661, but nobody touches that saw but me.
Husky 460 rancher has made a huge pile of sawdust here too, as have stihl 290's & 390's 460 stihls... stihl 460 is a good saw too. very reliable & well built, but hard to find used in good shape at a decent price.
79xx dolmar/makita is built well & cuts with the 372 for the most part. That particular saw is massively overhyped here on the forum imo, but still a good saw.
 
I think it would be hard to deny that the saws like a Xl12 or a Pro Mac 700 cut alot of wood, I doubt a fellow in 1978 was like "oh hell no I can't use that!".
I agree that modern saws have creature comforts that were only dreamed of ,but the fact remains that all of the total lumber cut ,the bulk was done with ( collector saws) .
The OP paid more to have his carburetor fixed then I paid for 2 of my pm700s and I drop plenty of trees with mine and cut firewood to heat the house with old poulan, homelite and macs.
I'm just saying that they're options for people who are strapped for cash, and if you put the monthly payment for a new car into an old car every month you'd have the most badass car or truck in your neighborhood .
Grab a 372 that needs tlc, put new P/C, SKF bearings, gasket set, carb kit in it for $180 and have a saw that should run like new and last, with parts readily available. 5.4hp stock, do muffler mod, base gasket delete and have at it. You have a great looking saw there, just not for me. Auto-tune has come a long ways and I enjoy running them, but that ported 372 is new inside, ugly outside and runs great. Everyone has their idea what saw is best, to each his own. That's exactly why so many makes and models available to feed our disease and lighten our wallets. Carry on, I am out.
 
I've never seen the tree in NE that my 266 wouldn't demolish.....and my two 262's are racehorses......I usually go for one of my 51 or 55 for small stuff or a top handle echo for the really small stuff. I would LOVE to find a 372 as they are my dream saw........but they are pricey in NE and no one lets them go.....that said, I've had a few Husky 350's and they are light and with a sharp chain will do anything I ask them....and CHEAP.
 
I've never seen the tree in NE that my 266 wouldn't demolish.....and my two 262's are racehorses......I usually go for one of my 51 or 55 for small stuff or a top handle echo for the really small stuff. I would LOVE to find a 372 as they are my dream saw........but they are pricey in NE and no one lets them go.....that said, I've had a few Husky 350's and they are light and with a sharp chain will do anything I ask them....and CHEAP.
Just buy a new 372, done.
 
I've never seen the tree in NE that my 266 wouldn't demolish.....and my two 262's are racehorses......I usually go for one of my 51 or 55 for small stuff or a top handle echo for the really small stuff. I would LOVE to find a 372 as they are my dream saw........but they are pricey in NE and no one lets them go.....that said, I've had a few Husky 350's and they are light and with a sharp chain will do anything I ask them....and CHEAP.
You'd be surprised what a ported 266 will do
I ran a 28" on one of my zoo city 266s
Cutting hardwood
Nice light powerful saw
Good torque not a screaming 372
In my ears all day lol
 
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