Big Daddy
ArboristSite Operative
I picked up my new 395xp this evening. I was wondering if there are any special break-in procedures I should follow on it's first start-up?
Thank You in advance
Jeff
Thank You in advance
Jeff
New Saw First Start
- Thread starter Big Daddy
- Start date
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ShneaSIG
ArboristSite Operative
Not sure if Husqvarna follows the same playbook, but for most Stihl saws, you aren't supposed to run full throttle unless under load for the first few tanks. Personally, I babied my saw through the first tank, cutting small-ish stuff, then ran it pretty good while bucking up the bigger pieces, but I still don't like to race the motor without a load. Quick revs are one thing, but I don't think you should let is race until you've got a few tanks of gas through it.
To each his own
I heat cycle for a few minutes
New or rebuilt saws.
40/1 since the 80s no problem
I've seen guy's buy new 1000.00 saws
And piss rev the crap out of them lol
before they've seen wood
I heat cycle for a few minutes
New or rebuilt saws.
40/1 since the 80s no problem
I've seen guy's buy new 1000.00 saws
And piss rev the crap out of them lol
before they've seen wood
stihldragon
ArboristSite Operative
The proper way to break in a new chainsaw is as follows... For the first three tanks of mix, add a teaspoon of two stroke oil directly into the saw. This can be done no matter what ratio you run, 40:1, 50:1. During the these three tanks, make only small cuts and avoid over-revving the saw. This will make the saw run better and longer than If you skipped the break in procedure.
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I have bought 5 new saws in my life. I ran them wide open from the first start just like I always run them. I still have all of them and they still run great. The oldest one is 34 years old.
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Big Daddy
ArboristSite Operative
Czed, what do you mean by heat cycling?
I have mixed about 40:1 since I started cutting firewood.
stihldragon
ArboristSite Operative
The break in procedure isn't do or die for Stihl but I would highly recommend it on a cheap saw.
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cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
that is a procedure i have not heard of.
stihldragon
ArboristSite Operative
stihldragon
ArboristSite Operative
I learned it from a small engine mechanic on YouTube
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My saws consist of 2 Husqvarna, Craftsman, Dolmar and echo. The oldest and newest being Husqvarna. I do have a Stihl but it's a 4 mix pole saw so I didn't count it, but I ran it wide open from the start as well.
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similar to this
stihldragon
ArboristSite Operative
I'm not a text book saw mechanic but I try to do at least a half a break in procedure, give or take. All they need is little maintenance and they should last many decades.
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stihldragon
ArboristSite Operative
As soon as you Skip basic maintenance, It's a matter of time before they fail
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Run them like you stole em. I would do 40 to 1 mix. Bearings and rings to metal so what does babying have to do with it? What is the difference between 10000 rpms and 13500 rpms lol on break in.
You better know how to retune one if you go to adding oil. That actually leans them out. Though more oil is better for break in as long as it’s retuned properly every time you change the ratio.
I’ve never owned a new husky, but I’ve had 20-30 new stihl saws. Always ran them like I stole them from day one with 50:1 super no ethanol and stihl oil. Never blown one up or scored any pistons and I’ve put some serious hours on a few of them (to the point of pistons not having etching on them)
stihldragon
ArboristSite Operative
I'm a self taught saw builder and all I buy is parts saws. I cut trees with my rebuilds on a daily basis. I restore and reuse worn engine parts and I've been using this break in procedure not knowing if it's really necessary but I always retune as needed. Here's a picture of a badly scored piston I reused. The rebuild ran like new.
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kyle.kipple
ArboristSite Guru
I'm a self taught saw builder and all I buy is parts saws. I cut trees with my rebuilds on a daily basis. I restore and reuse worn engine parts and I've been using this break in procedure not knowing if it's really necessary but I always retune as needed. Here's a picture of a badly scored piston I reused. The rebuild ran like new.
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You reused that??
That slug is a paperweight and should have went in the scrap. Hopefully you just did that for ***** n gigs on a personal saw.
As for your break in procedure I’ve never heard of sure. But if it’s worked for you then I reckon it doesn’t hurt.
I’ve never had new but any of my rebuilds I run really Fat on the high side for a couple tanks. Keep the WOT to a minimum while out of wood. Other than that while in wood I run it like any other saw of mine.
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My latest saw, the 261c, was ran full throttle for about 30 sec by the dealer. I’m not sure if that is a break In process or just a way to see if it has any flaws. I know it made my gut feel funny, just didn’t seem right but that’s what they have done with 2 saws purchased there.
When I got it home I ran it hard with the bar buried in dry Oak. I’ve always been told to break something in the same way you expect to run it.
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When I got it home I ran it hard with the bar buried in dry Oak. I’ve always been told to break something in the same way you expect to run it.
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Gas it up and beat it like it owes you money. Its always worked for me. This is especially true for the newer AT/MTronic saw You don’t want them and ”learning” at half throttle because it causes running issues. I know the 395 isn’t but just sayin’.
