New saw owner looking for safety gear advice

[number9]

Joined the site and started a thread today but it never showed up....anyway......

We recently bought some wooded property and the PO cleared an area out to build a tack barn, and just took the easy way out of bulldozing a big pile of trees over into the pond. Now I get to drag them out with a backhoe and cut them up. Also need to clear about 20-30 trees to widen the driveway into the property. Those will be the two big jobs for the saw, the rest will be just normal homeowner type stuff.

I did a lot of searching the web and reading and picked up a Stihl MS261 with 18" bar from the local dealer Friday. This is my first saw, I've never even used a chainsaw before so to say I am green is an understatement. I do have a very good mechanical background and enough common sense to know that I need to "learn up" on how to properly & safely run a saw when cutting downed trees or falling trees and I plan to do that before starting the work.

Since I highly value my life and limbs, I have been searching for the proper PPE for running a saw. I feel that everyone should and me even more so since I am new to running a saw. I'd like to get some advice on some PPE from you that have far more knowledge and experience than I do.

I am leaning toward the Labonville Competition Xtreme 10-ply chaps. My length from top of belt to top of boot is 38". They only come in 36" and 40". I called today and spoke to a girl at Labonville asking for advice on which size to pick and she wasn't helpful at all, but that's ok, I understand she may have just been a "phone girl". My concerns are that the 36" may be too short and ride up exposing my ankle or too much of my foot - and that the 40" may be too long and bunch up around my foot and create a hazard as well. Any advice on this would be great.

I have been researching chainsaw boots and looking at the following boots.

SwedePro Leather Chain Saw Boots
- I like that they are a traditional made lace up "work boot" and are kevlar lined, though I can't find details on how many layers or if they have been tested and certified to any degree of "chainsaw protection"

Viking Black Tusk Chainsaw Boots
- I like that these have a leather upper and have the "Green Tree" and CE Class 3 protection ratings.

Husqvarna Rubber Logger Boots
- These are CE Class 3 protection rated but have reviews of being way too heavy and hot

Labonville Kevlar 1" Low Heel Chainsaw Boot
- I've read many positive comments on these boots, but when talking to the girl at Labonville today she said they USED to be 6-ply kevlar but current production boots are 2-ply kevlar and they won't have my size (10.5) in until around sometime in May.

Any boot advice you guys could give would be great as well as any advice on gloves and a helmet as I haven't researched those PPE items yet. Being too hot doesn't concern me that much if the gear is GOOD PPE. I ride sportbikes and dirtbikes and NEVER ride without full gear year round. I melt down in the summer time and get many strange looks from the cruiser crowd in their t-shirts and sunglasses, but I know that wearing the proper gear is FAR less of a hassle than skin grafts or being mangled up.

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[Natty Bumppo]

I have an old pair of Husqvarna branded chainsaw boots that look identical to the Swede Pro boots. They're reasonably comfortable. A little stiff in the sole and a gel insert wouldn't hurt. I don't wear them a lot anymore as I've got other work boots that are more comfortable and lighter. I usually try to wear steel toed boots when I'm cutting.

I don't think apron style chaps would bunch up so much they'd be a hazard. I prefer wrap chaps. If they're too long, I suppose they could get chewed up a bit if you're constantly stepping on them with your heel. But I don't think that'd be a dangerous situation. I guess I'd rather go a little long rather than a little short.

 

[excess650]

Those Swede Pro boots look interesting. If I were working in wet areas often, I might consider the rubber bottomed boots. Chaps generally fasten several places around the leg, so the 40" should work OK.

Gloves, helmet/shield/ear protection?

 

[farmboss45]

First all,WELCOME to the site!! Your off on the right foot with inquireing about PPE. You can go to any stihl dealer and try on a pair of chaps for fit and go from there. Lots of guys including me like them. Think also about eye, ear,hand and head protection, as well as the footwear. Check ebay for some good options by Forester for kevlar backed gloves, helmet w/face screen and muffs. I like the stihl hi-vis for saftey glasses. I have not gone as far as the boots, although I should.

 

[fearofpavement]

My opinion on the chaps is to skip the competition ones and get the regular Labonville full wrap ones. I also recommend going with the 40" ones. I was in the same dilemma and chose the longer length and glad I did. I have no idea why they don't make a 38 as I suspect that would the right size for many many guys.

the 261 is a very excellent saw for your tasks. Read the manual. No, seriously, read the manual. There is a LOT of very useful info in there. The manual for my older Stihl 026 gives all sorts of useful felling info, how to avoid kickback and so forth. Assuming they haven't cut stuff out, you will find most of the info you need.

Tip, for the kind of cutting you're going to be doing, it may be wise to pick up a cheapo used chainsaw to cut yourself out of a bind (literally)

You will need to learn to properly sharpen a chain with a file. Chain sharpening isn't something done once a year like a lawnmower blade, I usually sharpen the chain every couple tank fulls of fuel. What you're cutting will make a difference.

Dirt, sand, grit and the ground are the primary enemies of your chain. Avoid these if at all possible. If you cut through a log into the soil just once it can dull the chain.

Congrats on a new saw and kudos on staying safe.

 

[pcrevelli]

I recently bought a pair of the Labonvill competition full wrap chaps. They are very nice, but now I have to buy a second pair of the regular wrap chaps, because the xtreme ones are way too hot. I can only use them in cold weather. Just my 2 cents.

 

[srb08]

I bought the Labonville full wrap chaps. They are long on me but the straps at the ankles keep me from walking on them. Long is definitely better than short. They get hot in warm weather but not overly uncomfortable. When bucking in warm weather, I wear shorts and chaps.
Chaps are a place you don't want to go cheap, buy the best.

 

[ttyR2]

Any reason you can't cut the bottoms off to proper length and get a seam sewed there? Shouldn't affect the safety rating at all.

 

[struggle]

Welcome to the site.

If you give some info lightly (not your real address of course) I mite add as to your approximate location you might be lucky enough to find a member here that would be so kind as to meet up and help school you first hand on safety. I know there are a few from your state here.

Very nice choice on the MS261. I have one and it is a great saw no matter what some people (saw troll:msp_winksay about them:msp_angry:

 

[number9]

Thanks for the great response guys!

Right now, I have in my cart at Bailey's the following gear....

Youngstown Cut Resistant Kevlar Gloves

Labonville X-Treme Competition Chainsaw Safety Chaps in the 40" length

Husqvarna Pro Forest Helmet System

Although I am still looking into the Lumberworks Chainsaw Gloves which are 8-ply kevlar on the back of the left hand and certified to EN 381:1999 Class 0 for chainsaw cuts.

I'm still looking into boots. I really like the SwedePro boots, but they only say "Lined with multiple layers of Kevlar" and "boots meet the requirement for chain saw protective footwear in OSHA reg. 1910.266". When looking up the OSHA reg, it just says......

1910.266(d)(1)(v)

The employer shall assure that each employee wears foot protection, such as heavy-duty logging boots that are waterproof or water repellent, cover and provide support to the ankle. The employer shall assure that each employee who operates a chain saw wears foot protection that is constructed with cut-resistant material which will protect the employee against contact with a running chain saw. Sharp, calk-soled boots or other slip-resistant type boots may be worn where the employer demonstrates that they are necessary for the employee's job, the terrain, the timber type, and the weather conditions, provided that foot protection otherwise required by this paragraph is met.

....which doesn't TELL ME how many of layers they have or any other specific protection rating they are made to. This really bugs me as coming from the streetbike world, many makers of gear will state "make to CE specifications" or some crap like that and NOT state the SPECIFIC CE rating the item was tested at and actually met. It's kind of like that grey area......makes me think of Bill Clinton's famous line of "what you're definition of is IS".

I'm about half tempted to pull the trigger on this Matterhorn 10-inch Steel Toe Chainsaw Boot #12277. It does state " 7 layers of Kevlar insulating lining that provides cut resistant saw jamming in case of a worse-case scenario" but again, not that the boot has been actually tested and met any certain protective boot spec as the Husky's and Viking's which state the Green Tree and CE Class 3 ratings.

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[number9]

Been looking up these certifications and from what I can find they are:

Green Tree certification
Canadian Standards Association Standard CAN/CSA-Z195-02 - Green triangle footwear has sole puncture protect ion with a Grade 1 protective toe (withstand impact up to 125 joules). The steel toe extends to the upper foot area behind the toe cap.
Chainsaw operators will need to have a boot that conforms to Canadian Standards
Association Standard CAN/CSA-Z195-02

CE Class 3
EN 381-5 CE certified workwear for users of hand-held chain saws.
Protective clothing certified according to EN 381-5 gives the wearer's leg protection against cuts from hand-held chainsaws. The garment is classified by the speed at which the chain saw chain, it protects against.
Class Chain speed [m / s]
1________20
2________24
3________28

The SwedePro boot or even the Matterhorn or Labonville boot may very well perform better than the above boots with these ratings, but there's no way to know as they don't state any demonstrated performance level that they meet. Which sucks, because I think I'd like them better (based on their build design) and they are a lot more expensive than the Husky and Viking. The extra money would be fine as my feet are priceless to me, but I'd like to know that I am getting an equal (at least) or better performing boot for the extra money. :msp_unsure:

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[ft. churchill]

I got the Labonville full wrap chaps, they are an excellent choice. You wont need the competion 10 ply ones as they are for max protection from full out racing saws. Safety glasses, ear plugs, heavy leather work gloves, steel toed work boots, hard hat, and long sleeve shirt and pants round out my gear. An axe and a couple of wedges will be most helpful as well. I use an Oregon file guide to re sharpen my chains, you'll need to every hour or so of cutting. Look for some info on line or on youtube for felling cuts. Poor notches and backcuts can cause you alot of danger. With proper notches you be able to put the trees exactly where you want, and no getting the saw stuck. Be safe out there.

 

[DarthTater]

Chaps? Chainsaw Boots? Ear Plugs?

The heck is that stuff for? (first I have ever heard of "Chainsaw Boots")

My Safety gear Consists of (in addition to work clothes) pair of heavy leather boots, Gloves, safety glasses and I only drag the hardhat out for when I'm literally out "in" the woods or falling trees (no need for it when cutting firewood logs to length)

 

[CTYank]

Chaps? Chainsaw Boots? Ear Plugs?

The heck is that stuff for? (first I have ever heard of "Chainsaw Boots")

My Safety gear Consists of (in addition to work clothes) pair of heavy leather boots, Gloves, safety glasses and I only drag the hardhat out for when I'm literally out "in" the woods or falling trees (no need for it when cutting firewood logs to length)

If you have to ask, you really won't "get" the answer. Welcome to Darwin's List- everybody out of the pool.

 

[DarthTater]

If you have to ask, you really won't "get" the answer. Welcome to Darwin's List- everybody out of the pool.

was tossing in a bit of sarcasm yeesh.....

 

[Jericho2211]

Once an old branch fell down on my head, when i started felling the tree. Knocked out, nose bleading.. Was lucky, the branch was rather small. Check the tree for old dry or hanging branches and use helmet, it might prolong one´s life. My 2 cents.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I think the competition chaps are overkill. As long as there are four to six layers of protection, another pair would do.

You might want to check out Elvex gear too. Very good helmets. And their chainsaw mitts look well made, too.

You may not always need to wear a helmet while sawing, such as if there are no standing tree limbs near enough to hit you. In this case, be sure you still have hearing and eye protection. A pair of shatterproof plastic safety glasses is handy.

 

[number9]

So I just don't know if I'd feel comfortable with a rubber gumbo type boot - I would like to better understand how they acheive the CE Class 3 rating (30 m/s) without the kevlar to jam the saw up. I'm sure they can or they couldn't make the claim, but I'd just like to better understand how.

Anyway, I've looked and looked at boots and seems most other countries have countless options of tested and certified boots but they seem pretty hard to find in the US, aside from what Bailey's offers on their website, so I started looking at the Haix boots more seriously.

Come to find out....their North American headquaters and distribution center is not 15 min down the road from me. AND they sell Factory Seconds at much reduced prices. I'm gonna stop by there today and hope to find that my foot fits the sizes they have the seconds in and save $100 or more.

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[zogger]

Chaps? Chainsaw Boots? Ear Plugs?

The heck is that stuff for? (first I have ever heard of "Chainsaw Boots")

My Safety gear Consists of (in addition to work clothes) pair of heavy leather boots, Gloves, safety glasses and I only drag the hardhat out for when I'm literally out "in" the woods or falling trees (no need for it when cutting firewood logs to length)

Hey good luck. I have seen a big saw kickback pretty hard just bucking logs to length. Come straight back and up hard, real hard, swing right by the guys head. couple inches over, oh well...


Emergency rooms get a regular stream of manly many uber macho guys who know what they are doing and been cutting for years/decades/generations, etc..without all the safety gear on. Cutting or doing other sorts of outdoor work. They are just special, normal physics doesnt apply to them.

 

[zogger]

So I just don't know if I'd feel comfortable with a rubber gumbo type boot - I would like to better understand how they acheive the CE Class 3 rating (30 m/s) without the kevlar to jam the saw up. I'm sure they can or they couldn't make the claim, but I'd just like to better understand how.

Anyway, I've looked and looked at boots and seems most other countries have countless options of tested and certified boots but they seem pretty hard to find in the US, aside from what Bailey's offers on their website, so I started looking at the Haix boots more seriously.

Come to find out....their North American headquaters and distribution center is not 15 min down the road from me. AND they sell Factory Seconds at much reduced prices. I'm gonna stop by there today and hope to find that my foot fits the sizes they have the seconds in and save $100 or more.

...

Got my husky boots direct from the local dealer. I chose the rubber ones over the leather and composite they had on the shelf because of all the mud and creeks here I have to wade in and across. The kevlar is between two layers of rubber obviously, looking at how they are built.