New toy arrived today, Husqvarna 44

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barneyrb said:
How would this saw run with the 346 ported? I've got a few of them here and even a couple of closed port models, just wondering and thinking out of the box......
Click to expand...

Not quite, I believe - specially not to the 50cc version (NE) of the 346xp. Even the 42mm/45cc 346xp cylinder has an advantage, as it is a quad transfer one (and 1cc more, from a longer stroke). The carb is larger on the 346xp as well.
 
Put a new Bosch plug in gapped at .017, no change. The piston looks new from the intake side and what I can see from the sparkplug hole looks like new. Seen gunk in the fuel tank and a tear in the fuel line where it slips on the carb. Put on a new fuel line with filter and cleaned the tank as best I could. I opened the carb and someone replaced the fuel pump. A few specs in the inlet screen, nothing bad. The diaphragm should be replaced but I didn't have one on hand. I used a new fuel line for a 266 and it worked good but I should probably get the correct one. It's much more consistent on the top rpm's but the adjustment is very touchy from 13000 to 13600. I think I have it locked in at 13000 and hopefully I can give it a work out this weekend. The safety brake is hard to manually engage, is that typical with the old metal handled brakes?
 
dsell said:
Put a new Bosch plug in gapped at .017, no change. The piston looks new from the intake side and what I can see from the sparkplug hole looks like new. Seen gunk in the fuel tank and a tear in the fuel line where it slips on the carb. Put on a new fuel line with filter and cleaned the tank as best I could. I opened the carb and someone replaced the fuel pump. A few specs in the inlet screen, nothing bad. The diaphragm should be replaced but I didn't have one on hand. I used a new fuel line for a 266 and it worked good but I should probably get the correct one. It's much more consistent on the top rpm's but the adjustment is very touchy from 13000 to 13600. I think I have it locked in at 13000 and hopefully I can give it a work out this weekend. The safety brake is hard to manually engage, is that typical with the old metal handled brakes?
Click to expand...

Plug SB gapped in at .020 but that shouldn't make the diff. Disassemble and soak the carb in carb cleaner overnight..........or replace the carb entirely if you still have issues.
 
From the work shop manual, "The air gap should be 0.30-0.45 mm." which is .012 to .018, did something change?
 
almondgt said:
The air gap is referring to the distance between the flywheel and the coil. Spark plug gap is a gapped at .020...
Click to expand...

Ok. Took it out cutting today. Loved the power, weight, handling. However, having troubles idling and dying. I did run a tank of fuel through it before I pulled the starter cord out of it. Then I pulled the 350 out that I built for myself. Just like going from a Saturn to a Cadillac. You don't really notice the difference cutting cookies, but you sure do when you're giving them a work out in a brush pile. It took me a while to get the 350 tuned, but it's just like I want it now. I had a rough time hitting the adjustment screws and I kept having to take the top off to see what I was doing. I ran the 346 for a while too, but the 350 won for the day, it had the sharpest chain.:biggrin:
 
After 15 days, received the carb kit in the mail. Saw runs exactly the same, loads up on idle. Noticed after it idles a while it spits gas out a little hole on the bottom of the carb, fuel pump side. So I thinks to myself, why won't it seal? Took the straight edge to it and neither the carb or plate are flat. Used a small countersink bit on the screw hole, carb side, spun it a couple times by hand and that helped a bunch. Found a good flat plate off a spare HDC for the cover. It helped, but still spitting fuel. The OEM carb kit I ordered arrived as an aftermarket.:angry: So, I put the old gasket in on the fuel pump side. That seemed to help a little but still spitting gas after it idles a bit. Then, I thought where else could the fuel come from? The screw threads that hold the cover on go clear through to the venturi. I think the saw is loading up so bad, the fuel is running down those threads. I've had this carb off and apart several times.:angry: Now, I'm thinking the nozzle check valve is leaking causing it to load up. That check valve is obsolete.:bang: I replaced the screen and the rubber disc is free and looks ok. Obviously, I can't remove the seat without damaging it, so I can't tell if crap is on the other side of the check. The kit came with two circuit gaskets. I matched the gasket with the one I pulled from the carb. HMMM, wonder if that's been the problem from the beginning? Pulled up the diagram from the Walbro website and it sure looks like the wrong one is installed. I am anxious to try the other gasket tonight.
 
Installed the other circuit gasket tonight and it's not loading up on idle and dying, (left picture). Looking at the circuit, I'm not sure why it would make any difference on the idle since it's in the high circuit nozzle. Perhaps it wasn't holding the nozzle check valve shut on idle. Now, I have my hesitation back occasionally on acceleration. I can fatten the low side and take out the hesitation, but then it's back to being too rich on idle. It's doing ok on cookies, but it's due for another real test.
 
Termite said:
I worked on one awhile back. I could not find a piston for it. Other than the PC it was in good shape.
Click to expand...

Yeah, they don't exist new. Not the easiest husky to find parts for. I bought a used parts 44 off ebay with a good p/c as a backup and a nos coil too :D
Saw should last until I die.
 
redunshee said:
What is the primary diff. in the differant colored tops? Year of manuf.?
Bob
Click to expand...

Yes, the early ones are the white tops. The differences I've heard of are the flywheels, coils, carbs, and clutch covers.
 
dsell said:
I think you are right. I probably should just go ahead and order the crank seals.
Click to expand...

I got one foor 420 last summer. The P/C were in great shape. It needed a carb rebuild and the tank vent was clogged.

I wanted to change the crank seals as preventative maintenance because it was almost 30 years old and looked to have sat for a very long time. I hunted high and low and wound up finding them for top dollar on eBay.

If I were you I would do a vacuum and pressure test before you look for parts. They are hard to find for this saw and you want to be sure you are replacing what needs to be replaced.

Bob
 
Bob95065 said:
I got one foor 420 last summer. The P/C were in great shape. It needed a carb rebuild and the tank vent was clogged.

I wanted to change the crank seals as preventative maintenance because it was almost 30 years old and looked to have sat for a very long time. I hunted high and low and wound up finding them for top dollar on eBay.

If I were you I would do a vacuum and pressure test before you look for parts. They are hard to find for this saw and you want to be sure you are replacing what needs to be replaced.

Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up on the seals. I'll work on making an adaptor to make my pressure tester fit. I have a set up that works really nice on the 300 series saws. Do you know what pressure to test it at and how long it should hold? If I converted right, I think it is 11.37 psi and it can leak 2.84 psi in 30 seconds. There's no decomp valve, so that will help and the intake bolts directly on the cylinder, no leaky boot to worry about.
 
hey, glad i found this thread on the "ole 44", got one sittin in the garage right now that i havnt looked at yet, good info on here.sounds like i might have to convince the owner the saws no good, iall buy it fer parts:msp_biggrin:
 

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