Correct! The only difference is an OAK brings frigid cold air into your firebox, reduces internal temps and may reduce your efficiencies. I always think of it as a last resort. Or if its code in your area.
new woodstove ordered
- Thread starter Hank Chinaski
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Correct! The only difference is an OAK brings frigid cold air into your firebox, reduces internal temps and may reduce your efficiencies. I always think of it as a last resort. Or if its code in your area.
Hank Chinaski
Number 37
Got it in yesterday. Wrastled it into the house, inverted carpet makes a great, non damaging floor skid. The 2400 weighs around 525lbs.
It was packaged on a small skid, plastic wrapped, with my additional accessories plastic wrapped on top.
Ordered it with a black door insert (or so I thought). No door insert shipped with it, so either it didn't get shipped, or they just leave the insert channel and mounting holes there for you to look at when you order the black "insert" instead of gold or silver. Have to call on this.
The fan/blower that fits it is made to fit several different models. The instructions for the 2400 say to fit it between the rear air jacket and the rear heat shield and use the two holes, while facing the louvers down. No pics.
When doing it that way, the only way the holes will line up is to take the adjustment knob off the fan assembly and even then the shaft that the knob fits on hits the side of the rear heat shield enough that it would be impossible to turn.
Have to call on this as well. (... I'm sure the fix will be "drill two holes 1" lower or some such)
The variable speed fan is approx 4x5x20" squirrel cage type, and sits off set to one side of the 30" wide stove. It's held on/up with TWO sheet metal screws (not very impressive).
One of the firebrick in the middle/bottom of the stove sits proud/rocks due to sitting on two pointed screws that come up from the bottom of the firebox. This seems like a good way to break a brick when you put wood on top of it. Have to ask about this as well.
While searching for "THE" stove that I'd hoped would fit my needs perfectly, I somehow mistakenly got the 2400 confused with some other of the hundred I researched and thought that the blower/fan would blow air around the fire box and vent into the room. It only blows from the bottom rear, over the rear of the stove, and has a 2" lip that diverts the air somewhat toward the top/rear of the stove. So instead of the blower getting heated air from 3 or 4 or 5 surfaces, it only picks up heated air from one surface (rear panel). It may be fine, and I'll withhold judgement until I've used it some, but it could have been designed much better IMHO.
The only other potential issues I've got (so far): the fire brick alignment seems to have been updated as the ash door has been moved, at least it's different than the instructions.
Before I come across as completely negative against this product, I am impressed with the weight of the 2400. It is definitely 500lbs of thermal mass. It seems very well built with good welds and thick materials (the top is 3/8" vs more common 5/16 or 1/4"). The door handle assembly w/the roller cam looks well thought out and adjustable for gasket compression.
Overall I'd score the initial purchase as a solid 7/10. It may go up or down some based on answers from the company to the questions above, and install.
I plan to try to get it installed within the next couple weeks and will keep ya'll updated as I go (and add pics at that time).
It was packaged on a small skid, plastic wrapped, with my additional accessories plastic wrapped on top.
Ordered it with a black door insert (or so I thought). No door insert shipped with it, so either it didn't get shipped, or they just leave the insert channel and mounting holes there for you to look at when you order the black "insert" instead of gold or silver. Have to call on this.
The fan/blower that fits it is made to fit several different models. The instructions for the 2400 say to fit it between the rear air jacket and the rear heat shield and use the two holes, while facing the louvers down. No pics.
When doing it that way, the only way the holes will line up is to take the adjustment knob off the fan assembly and even then the shaft that the knob fits on hits the side of the rear heat shield enough that it would be impossible to turn.
Have to call on this as well. (... I'm sure the fix will be "drill two holes 1" lower or some such)
The variable speed fan is approx 4x5x20" squirrel cage type, and sits off set to one side of the 30" wide stove. It's held on/up with TWO sheet metal screws (not very impressive).
One of the firebrick in the middle/bottom of the stove sits proud/rocks due to sitting on two pointed screws that come up from the bottom of the firebox. This seems like a good way to break a brick when you put wood on top of it. Have to ask about this as well.
While searching for "THE" stove that I'd hoped would fit my needs perfectly, I somehow mistakenly got the 2400 confused with some other of the hundred I researched and thought that the blower/fan would blow air around the fire box and vent into the room. It only blows from the bottom rear, over the rear of the stove, and has a 2" lip that diverts the air somewhat toward the top/rear of the stove. So instead of the blower getting heated air from 3 or 4 or 5 surfaces, it only picks up heated air from one surface (rear panel). It may be fine, and I'll withhold judgement until I've used it some, but it could have been designed much better IMHO.
The only other potential issues I've got (so far): the fire brick alignment seems to have been updated as the ash door has been moved, at least it's different than the instructions.
Before I come across as completely negative against this product, I am impressed with the weight of the 2400. It is definitely 500lbs of thermal mass. It seems very well built with good welds and thick materials (the top is 3/8" vs more common 5/16 or 1/4"). The door handle assembly w/the roller cam looks well thought out and adjustable for gasket compression.
Overall I'd score the initial purchase as a solid 7/10. It may go up or down some based on answers from the company to the questions above, and install.
I plan to try to get it installed within the next couple weeks and will keep ya'll updated as I go (and add pics at that time).
1) Door comes in a separate box. Call them back if you didnt get it.
2) The issue with the blower has been addressed recently and the heat shield has been modified to make the installation easier (or feasable without drilling new holes) and to improve access to the rheostat’s knob once the blower is installed. The installation instructions are supposed to have been modified to match the new system. The blower will unfortunately still be offset and that does not affect its performance and esthetically speaking, it will hardly be noticed since it is behind the stove. If you PM me your email, i'll send you the new instructions.
3) As for the tips of the screws making a couple bricks rock, I checked with engineering and they say that the ash will compensate as it works its way between the bricks; that answer did not satisfy me so I forwarded to production to see if they can do something about it in the future.
4) The item you are thinking about is called an 'Airmate'. Basically fits on top of the stove and redistribute the air on top to scoop more hot air. 95% of the stoves on the market do not have this built in or as an option. We are looking to implement this as an option for all the Osburn Stoves in 2012 and you'll be able to retrofit if you wish.
Let me know how things goes and i'll be more than glad to help you out.
howard270
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bump back to top. How is the install coming? Any pics? And has your opinion of the stove changed any since last you received it?
ss~zoso~ss
ArboristSite Operative
we've been happy with our 1600 osburn insert, the only gripes we have about the fan is that its only 130 cfm, which is hard to quantify, we just wish it had a stronger blow and moved more air, would really help get the most heat out of the stove.
It's hard to heat a house on radiated heat rather than convective heat via the blower..
If you ask me, your can't have a fast enough blower, assuming you get the stove nice and hot, the blower isn't gonna cool it off by just circulating air around it.
Are there any aftermarket / upgradeable blowers?
It's hard to heat a house on radiated heat rather than convective heat via the blower..
If you ask me, your can't have a fast enough blower, assuming you get the stove nice and hot, the blower isn't gonna cool it off by just circulating air around it.
Are there any aftermarket / upgradeable blowers?
The unit comes with a 130CFM blower because there are some engineering calculations that goes into this. When the unit is certified with EPA it is certified with the CFM listed. Yes you could put a bigger blower and it might give you the impression its throwing more heat when in reality it will do nothing of the sort.
More heat doesn't equal more air velocity. If you throw more CFM at a smaller firebox you are cooling it too fast, reducing internal temps and therefore your burn is not as efficient. Cooling the firebox too fast may also introduce condensation = creosote.
The funny thing is the user always perceive more velocity warm air as more heat. This is not mere technical mumbo jumbo, its actually proven using IR guns and other instruments.
Ideally it would be great to have a DC blower that would automatically adjust the blower velocity to the firebox temperature but this would make the blower quite expensive.
Hank Chinaski
Number 37
Nope. Istall is stalled...
I should get on it Thurs/Friday.
FyreBug, thanks a ton for the help!
The insert issue was due to very (very) poor setup on their website and would have cost $150 more (that I refuse to pay for a very simple piece of metal)
the fan/blower issue is being handled by them sending additional mounting plates (havn't received yet)
the screws: I emailed them a description and they in turn wanted to know how far they were protruding (that I described in the email)
I'm going to grind the tips down myself prior to install. They SHOULD have been able to see this on any of their stoves around this production run and been able to do something, and it SHOULD have been caught by who ever puts the fire brick in the stove.
Coldfront
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a very similar stove a Pacific Energy Spectrum. It heats our whole house 2400 sq feet. We use no outside air intake, or stove blower, even though they are both available. I have a ceiling fan in the room with the stove, then when it gets really cold out I turn on a small stand alone room fan in the adjoining room blowing air into the room with the wood stove, this forces the heat out and circulates through the whole house pretty good.
MN Ripper
ArboristSite Operative
Number 37 I put a Drolet stove in our basement a few years back and I remember the pedestal screws poking up through the bottom too. I just added a thick washer to each screw and it helped. They still poke through and the firebrick teters some on them until after the first fire. I've tossed some heavy rounds of oak on top in the past few years and never had a brick break. I can understand your frustration, I felt the same. Other than that this stove has been excellent in all other ways. Cranks the heat for hours and still has plenty of coals in the morning to relight a fresh load off of. Kudos to SBI! I just had this fire going the other night.
Hi guys. First of all thank your for your input. I contacted Engineering and Production regarding the srews protruding. They are currently working on a solution which should be implemented very shortly.
Any other items, please let me know.
Any other items, please let me know.
Hank Chinaski
Number 37
started ripping crap down and poking holes in walls today.
I hate sheetrock. < pay attention as I'm sure I'll mention it many, many more times and maybe even sell T'shirts eventually
My 13 y/o house is "country built", meaning they thought "code" was something you need tissues for and made you sneeze a lot, and pretty much every project I've undertaken has required 2-3 times more effort and money to do "right". I've figured out to plan for the expense and time when undertaking anything and the stove install is no different.
While I'm fairly good with tools, and never been afraid to tackle pretty much any project (and usually end up with good results), I've never installed a stove before and am coming to ya'll for "intelligent" advice to assist me in doing it correctly
Description:
remove open fireplace and install my new Osburn 2400
Fireplace is located on outside wall of vaulted room and has a 40x60" surround for the chimney piping (is there a name for the surround?) that's made from 2x4's, blandex, and covered with vinyl siding. It's approx 28-30' tall.
What I "think" I'd like to do is place the stove partially in the surround and then finish out the inside of the surround approx 6-7' tall in the back and 8-9' tall in the front so the ceiling portion angles forward toward the face of the stove.
Similar to this quadrafire pic:
I've got the stove manual describing the clearances required and appear to have enough room for using non combustible interior. I currently plan on using fake stone similar to the pic above.
Is it ok to insulate the surround? is there advantage to it? It will be a lot of work, and extra expense, but I want to do it correctly while I'm here and not have it weighing on me later.
The chimney pipe appears to be double or triple wall (how do I tell?) it's silver(galvanized?) and approx 10" diameter. The fireplace outlet measures 8" (from inside), and the Osburn measures 6". I'm assuming I'll need an adapter or some other bits in here.
I'd like the pipe that will show to be black and match the stove. Do I need to replace it, or can I paint over it?
Here's some pics of the actual fireplace to get an idea:
all opinions are welcome, but I'm especially seeking them from installers or folks who've done it before.
Thanks in advance!
I hate sheetrock. < pay attention as I'm sure I'll mention it many, many more times and maybe even sell T'shirts eventually
My 13 y/o house is "country built", meaning they thought "code" was something you need tissues for and made you sneeze a lot, and pretty much every project I've undertaken has required 2-3 times more effort and money to do "right". I've figured out to plan for the expense and time when undertaking anything and the stove install is no different.
While I'm fairly good with tools, and never been afraid to tackle pretty much any project (and usually end up with good results), I've never installed a stove before and am coming to ya'll for "intelligent" advice to assist me in doing it correctly
Description:
remove open fireplace and install my new Osburn 2400
Fireplace is located on outside wall of vaulted room and has a 40x60" surround for the chimney piping (is there a name for the surround?) that's made from 2x4's, blandex, and covered with vinyl siding. It's approx 28-30' tall.
What I "think" I'd like to do is place the stove partially in the surround and then finish out the inside of the surround approx 6-7' tall in the back and 8-9' tall in the front so the ceiling portion angles forward toward the face of the stove.
Similar to this quadrafire pic:
I've got the stove manual describing the clearances required and appear to have enough room for using non combustible interior. I currently plan on using fake stone similar to the pic above.
Is it ok to insulate the surround? is there advantage to it? It will be a lot of work, and extra expense, but I want to do it correctly while I'm here and not have it weighing on me later.
The chimney pipe appears to be double or triple wall (how do I tell?) it's silver(galvanized?) and approx 10" diameter. The fireplace outlet measures 8" (from inside), and the Osburn measures 6". I'm assuming I'll need an adapter or some other bits in here.
I'd like the pipe that will show to be black and match the stove. Do I need to replace it, or can I paint over it?
Here's some pics of the actual fireplace to get an idea:
all opinions are welcome, but I'm especially seeking them from installers or folks who've done it before.
Thanks in advance!
Hank Chinaski
Number 37
bump for the new crowd...
bump for the new crowd...
On the road right now but will provide some info later today.
Hank Chinaski
Number 37
Thank you sir.
Edit To Add: on the alcove that I'm building for the stove, I'm understanding that the ceiling portion should be 84", but how angled should I make it (ie 84" tall in front, 78" tall in back, or does the shortest measurement need to be 84" and raise to 88" or so at the face?)
I'm not opposed to putting in an air gap or stand off of hardi-board if I can reduce the height of the opening. I'd like to put a mantle over it, and not have it nine feet off the ground.
Insulation thoughts: it would be more economical and easier to just insulate the face wall (outside wall of house) and alcove that I'm building for the stove and not the entire surround for the chimney pipe. Would that be ok?
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I have the 2300 Osburn, had it for a year. Bought it on sale as the stove and sales pamphlet pictures didn't match so it was a few
bucks off.
Stove works great, like the long wood it takes. Efficiency is shown as 60-65% I think its better.
Takes a bit to get it going, have to keep door open for the first few minutes.
I didn't like the clearance section in the manual, seemed hard to decipher.
Also the manual shows the a totally different bypass damper positions than I have??
And what is with left and right to open and close the bypass, isn't clockwise and counter clockwise the proper term.
And I think the bypass positions should be marked on the stove, I am always looking inside to see what position its in.
I have a separate fresh air intake as my retailer said a few people have had the smoke/fire go into the fresh air duct on a very cold
start up?
That might be BS
Other than these few item I like it.:smile2:
BBB
bucks off.
Stove works great, like the long wood it takes. Efficiency is shown as 60-65% I think its better.
Takes a bit to get it going, have to keep door open for the first few minutes.
I didn't like the clearance section in the manual, seemed hard to decipher.
Also the manual shows the a totally different bypass damper positions than I have??
And what is with left and right to open and close the bypass, isn't clockwise and counter clockwise the proper term.
And I think the bypass positions should be marked on the stove, I am always looking inside to see what position its in.
I have a separate fresh air intake as my retailer said a few people have had the smoke/fire go into the fresh air duct on a very cold
start up?
That might be BS
Other than these few item I like it.:smile2:
BBB
Far from expert more a newb like yourself, but something caught my eye in your tear down pic.
Why was that insert installed without any cement board?? Everything i read and seen requires some kinda heat dissapation even for inserts.
I too have a farm house built with "code" parts its a real nightmare working with 40 year old technology. in the house.
I'm intersested in opening a hole in my insert for a freestand too.
Don't hold me too it but all triple wall pipe i've seen is chrome or silver. Not sure on the code but i think as long as its inside the house open to the living space you are allowed to use single wall or black pipe. I thiink the triple wall is for confined space leading through the attic out the roof. one thing is for sure that stuff is super spendy
Why was that insert installed without any cement board?? Everything i read and seen requires some kinda heat dissapation even for inserts.
I too have a farm house built with "code" parts its a real nightmare working with 40 year old technology. in the house.
I'm intersested in opening a hole in my insert for a freestand too.
Don't hold me too it but all triple wall pipe i've seen is chrome or silver. Not sure on the code but i think as long as its inside the house open to the living space you are allowed to use single wall or black pipe. I thiink the triple wall is for confined space leading through the attic out the roof. one thing is for sure that stuff is super spendy
Oh by the way if you get those shirts made for I HATE DRYWALL put me down for 10 of em.
Was blowning some insulation last week lost my way and right through the ceiling i went. I can do new drywall even do some amatuer knockdown textureing however blending a pros work is not my forte. my drywall guy should be done with the screwup tonight.
P.S. I have to be very well stocked with brews to keep my patience in check when drywalling.
Was blowning some insulation last week lost my way and right through the ceiling i went. I can do new drywall even do some amatuer knockdown textureing however blending a pros work is not my forte. my drywall guy should be done with the screwup tonight.
P.S. I have to be very well stocked with brews to keep my patience in check when drywalling.
I'll see if I can help. You are right. you need to maintain 84" minimum in an alcove installation.
To reduce your clearances by 1/2 or more, you need to build a firewall made of non-combustible material (stone, bricks, ceramic etc...). Space it with non-combustible 1" spacers. Make sure to provide 'breathing holes' so convection air can flow between the non-combustible and combustion wall. For ex. if you are building a brick wall, remove some mortar between two bricks at the bottom and top of your wall every 12" or so.
Since this is a permanent installation, why not also use cement board on your wood studs for extra safety. Make sure to keep pics of everything you do for the insurance inspector if/when he comes by. Keep those in your permanent records.
Let me know if you need anything else.
To reduce your clearances by 1/2 or more, you need to build a firewall made of non-combustible material (stone, bricks, ceramic etc...). Space it with non-combustible 1" spacers. Make sure to provide 'breathing holes' so convection air can flow between the non-combustible and combustion wall. For ex. if you are building a brick wall, remove some mortar between two bricks at the bottom and top of your wall every 12" or so.
Since this is a permanent installation, why not also use cement board on your wood studs for extra safety. Make sure to keep pics of everything you do for the insurance inspector if/when he comes by. Keep those in your permanent records.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Hank Chinaski
Number 37
Thanks FB, what are your thoughts on the insulation?
I was thinking of doing the hardiboard and then lowering the ceiling portion about a foot or so, but adding a standoff that will be finished to look like the rest, but have a gap across the bottom and top edge.
I plan on finishing out the entire alcove in some type of fake stone (that will be non combustible).
I was thinking of doing the hardiboard and then lowering the ceiling portion about a foot or so, but adding a standoff that will be finished to look like the rest, but have a gap across the bottom and top edge.
I plan on finishing out the entire alcove in some type of fake stone (that will be non combustible).
Hank Chinaski
Number 37
sheetrock sucks.
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