Northern log splitter, not splitting :(

[farmsplitter]

New here, just received my Northern 37 Ton log splitter. Put it together and everything went well. Started it up, Honda 270cc motor runs smooth. Cycle the ram back and forth to bleed the air, no problems. Toss a stick up to split it and nuttin... the wedge hits the wood and it won't split. This is supposed to have a 2 stage pump? I don't hear the second stage engage. I looked in the book and it tells me that I need to adjust the control valve with a pressure gauge. I don't have a pressure gauge. Everything else looks fine, other than having a 2k dollar splitter that doesn't split. Any help would be great! Thank you.

 

[acme0007]

Try to move the ram back and forth a couple times to first under no load. also let it sit for a few minutes on low speed even at idle to help prevent cavitation in your pump, before you start hitting the lever. It has plenty of fluid ?
I have a NH splitter and it's pretty nice haven't had any problems. Check out a few pics of a log lift I fabbed for it, really makes it about twice as fast.
Good splittin, welcome to AS !

 

[farmsplitter]

Try to move the ram back and forth a couple times to first under no load. also let it sit for a few minutes on low speed even at idle to help prevent cavitation in your pump, before you start hitting the lever. It has plenty of fluid ?
I have a NH splitter and it's pretty nice haven't had any problems. Check out a few pics of a log lift I fabbed for it, really makes it about twice as fast.
Good splittin, welcome to AS !

I moved the ram about ten times so far with no load. How long should let it idle for, cavitation? It has fluid. I do want to build a log lift for it as I heat with wood full time. I just need to get my splitter working first! Time for a beer!

 

[whis]

try running the ram all the way out and holding it there for a second, then all the way back and hold for a second. do this a few times

 

[reaperman]

You shouldnt have to do any adustments at all, they are factory set. I also have a NT splitter that I put together myself and I never had to do anything special to get it to split. One thing you can check to see is if the suction line on the bottom of the tank leading to the pump is getting enough fluid. If not, your pump will "cavitate" or starve for fluid. You will know what I am talking about if the pump cavitates it will get jumpy.

I know it would be a hassle to check and see if something is blocking the suction line from get enough fluid. You would have to remove the line from the tank and your tank is full of fluid. But when I bought my splitter and put it together I noticed some chinese paper crumpled up and stuffed inside of my hydro tank. I took the splitter back to NT and made them give me a different one. I know the paper would have plugged something up and I dont know how I would have gotten all of it out.

Hopefully you will be able to figure it out soon, NT does have good customer service while your machine is under warranty.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

New here, just received my Northern 37 Ton log splitter. Put it together and everything went well. Started it up, Honda 270cc motor runs smooth. Cycle the ram back and forth to bleed the air, no problems. Toss a stick up to split it and nuttin... the wedge hits the wood and it won't split. This is supposed to have a 2 stage pump? I don't hear the second stage engage. I looked in the book and it tells me that I need to adjust the control valve with a pressure gauge. I don't have a pressure gauge. Everything else looks fine, other than having a 2k dollar splitter that doesn't split. Any help would be great! Thank you.

Friend got one, ram would move but not split. The set screw that holds coupler to engine crankshaft backed out. He got a longer set screw and used lock tite thread locker on it. . DW

 

[farmsplitter]

You shouldnt have to do any adustments at all, they are factory set. I also have a NT splitter that I put together myself and I never had to do anything special to get it to split. One thing you can check to see is if the suction line on the bottom of the tank leading to the pump is getting enough fluid. If not, your pump will "cavitate" or starve for fluid. You will know what I am talking about if the pump cavitates it will get jumpy.

I know it would be a hassle to check and see if something is blocking the suction line from get enough fluid. You would have to remove the line from the tank and your tank is full of fluid. But when I bought my splitter and put it together I noticed some chinese paper crumpled up and stuffed inside of my hydro tank. I took the splitter back to NT and made them give me a different one. I know the paper would have plugged something up and I dont know how I would have gotten all of it out.

Hopefully you will be able to figure it out soon, NT does have good customer service while your machine is under warranty.

Gosh, I hope this isn't the case. It'll split small stuff but the big logs, well that's another story. I thought this is a 2 stage pump, meaning when the pump has to put out more than 7-800 psi it'll go to the number 2 stage and push through with 3500 psi. What the frig...

 

[triptester]

I aggree check the coupler for slippage, there has to be a key in both halves of the coupler to prevent slippage. If the coupler is good and fluid levels are OK it would be best to return it to Northern for repair. Being new if you attempt adjustments the warranty could be voided.

 

[farmsplitter]

I aggree check the coupler for slippage, there has to be a key in both halves of the coupler to prevent slippage. If the coupler is good and fluid levels are OK it would be best to return it to Northern for repair. Being new if you attempt adjustments the warranty could be voided.

Which coupler and where is it located? I'm not messing with it, Northern will receive a call from me Monday morning. However, I would like to educate myself on this matter further.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

where the crank & pump are hooked together

 

[triptester]

The coupler is the connection between the engine shaft and the pump shaft. Commonly called a Lovejoy coupling.

 

[farmsplitter]

I found the hex head next to the scution hose with a drip on it and some fluid on the hose itself from the leak. I am guessing this hex head is an adjustment setting screw? I posted this in another thread, I don't want to dbl post but... trying to get some answers, thanks.

 

[Slt Skier]

---

I found the hex head next to the scution hose with a drip on it and some fluid on the hose itself from the leak. I am guessing this hex head is an adjustment setting screw? I posted this in another thread, I don't want to dbl post but... trying to get some answers, thanks.

The lovejoy connection is just to the right of that picture you posted. It's inside that cast housing. If the set screw is not tight it will spin the pump but allow it to slip when under load. I had a similar problem a month or so ago with a speeco 28 ton. turned out to be a bad control valve. If you do a search you can read about the problem and symptoms. Post an update when you figure out the problem.

 

[fordracer]

Try to move the ram back and forth a couple times to first under no load. also let it sit for a few minutes on low speed even at idle to help prevent cavitation in your pump, before you start hitting the lever. It has plenty of fluid ?
I have a NH splitter and it's pretty nice haven't had any problems. Check out a few pics of a log lift I fabbed for it, really makes it about twice as fast.
Good splittin, welcome to AS !

Where are your log lift pictures?did i miss something?would like to see your log lift pictures on your NH splitter.

 

[farmsplitter]

Dropped the splitter off at a hydraulic specialist. Spoke with a Northern rep who will coordinate with the shop with all repairs needed. Funny, when I dropped it off the motor wouldn't turn over. Guys says the pump was seized. Prob going to need a new pump. I'll keep you all posted.

 

[reaperman]

Dropped the splitter off at a hydraulic specialist. Spoke with a Northern rep who will coordinate with the shop with all repairs needed. Funny, when I dropped it off the motor wouldn't turn over. Guys says the pump was seized. Prob going to need a new pump. I'll keep you all posted.

Do you have a Northern tool store close by or did you have the splitter shipped. Either way, I wouldn't settle for getting your splitter fixed. I'd tell them you will settle for nothing less than a entire new unit. If your pump seized up it may have sent metal shavings throughout your splitter that may come back and haunt you someday.

After I found the chinese paper stuffed in my hydraulic tank I hauled the splitter down and made them give me another brand new splitter. I got that unit back home and started it up and a bunch of thick grease like fluid started leaking from the control valve. I hauled that splitter down and had them replace that unit as well. My theory is if something is purchased brand new, it better work like brand new or it's going back for a refund or replacement. All stores, by law must offer refunds in a given time period. They may piss and moan about it but once I threaten to dispute the charges with my credit card company they become very cooperative. To top it all off I told the mgr at NT he better throw in a pair of 4-way wedge wings for my splitter for all of the hassle I went thru, so he did

 

[farmsplitter]

I had it shipped to me and I assembled it. No store near by. The hydraulic specialist told me the parts will be brand new and an entire inspect will be included. It will run and operate as a brand new unit because it is a new unit, if not I will have a new unit shipped. We'll see...

 

[Rob1276]

Do you have a Northern tool store close by or did you have the splitter shipped. Either way, I wouldn't settle for getting your splitter fixed. I'd tell them you will settle for nothing less than a entire new unit. If your pump seized up it may have sent metal shavings throughout your splitter that may come back and haunt you someday.

After I found the chinese paper stuffed in my hydraulic tank I hauled the splitter down and made them give me another brand new splitter. I got that unit back home and started it up and a bunch of thick grease like fluid started leaking from the control valve. I hauled that splitter down and had them replace that unit as well. My theory is if something is purchased brand new, it better work like brand new or it's going back for a refund or replacement. All stores, by law must offer refunds in a given time period. They may piss and moan about it but once I threaten to dispute the charges with my credit card company they become very cooperative. To top it all off I told the mgr at NT he better throw in a pair of 4-way wedge wings for my splitter for all of the hassle I went thru, so he did

I think I would have just got my money back all together after that ordeal

 

[cmsmoke]

Troubles with brand new products happen to everyone. I have the same splitter. Once it is repaired correctly, I'm sure you will be more than happy with it...However nobody should have to go through the trouble of taking a brand new product to be repaired and do all the leg work to have it taken care of and paid for. The dealer should handle the whole 9 yards...unless they can prove neglegence was a factor.

 

[farmsplitter]

Troubles with brand new products happen to everyone. I have the same splitter. Once it is repaired correctly, I'm sure you will be more than happy with it...However nobody should have to go through the trouble of taking a brand new product to be repaired and do all the leg work to have it taken care of and paid for. The dealer should handle the whole 9 yards...unless they can prove neglegence was a factor.

As I know, the northern rep told me everything will be taken care of. Not one extra dime (not including fuel for traveling) will come out of my pocket for this. I can say this while knocking on wood (no pun intended) northern's cust care has been 5 star so far. Lets hope they keep it up!