I'm sure Blue marble is good oil, but I prefer true full syn ester oils.
Oil
- Thread starter MS460WOODCHUCK
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dingeryote
Blueberry Baron
I'll make this thread useful and point out a 2-ccle premix I used that has caused problems and that was Golden Spectro at 32:1. Always had problems keeping 125cc MX bikes together. Switched to Maxima SuperM and never had failure again.
That stuff was horrible back in the 80's for plugging up silencer packing and big end bearings taking a ####.
I used to HATE bieng behind some guy running that crap, or worse, getting jammed mid pack and a bunch of 'em.
Bel-Ray MC1+ FTW!!
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
motomedik
ArboristSite Operative
I'll make this thread useful and point out a 2-ccle premix I used that has caused problems and that was Golden Spectro at 32:1. Always had problems keeping 125cc MX bikes together. Switched to Maxima SuperM and never had failure again.
The reason you had problems is you effectively leaned the bike out mixing that rich. Golden Spectro is made for a 40-50:1 ratio in a modern MXer. Way too much at 32:1 on a bike with Power Valve. Probably also didn't mix the tank(Hold front brake, shake the bike) The only two issues with Gold Spectro are gumming PV's (formulated before bikes had them) and you HAVE to shake the gas, before you turn the fuel on or dump it in your tank!!! It would settle out.
That being said, the new 32:1 SX is a more modern oil, full synth, but I can sell the Klotz for a buck or two less, so I got the boss to put it on the shelf.
The Klotz is every bit as good, but I think 32:1 is overkill to mix it at, personally.
souliog
ArboristSite Lurker
No...pretty sure the oil was junk...I know how to tune a carb pretty damn good.
This was late 80's early 90's
and nothing was mixed at 50:1. I believe 20:1 was recomended:jawdrop:
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
Speaking of flash points, the lower flash point oils (<100*C) are geared towards meeting the JASO FC/FD spec for cleanliness.
The pure race (no/minimal 'official' spec oils, eg Motul 8002T, Silkolene Pro2) oils tend to have the much higher flash points as protection/prevention of ring and skirt scuffing is their primary concern at absolute peak/lean temps.
The engines they are designed for run with their necks rung from almost startup, a road/race oil has to contend with a lot of idling and part throttle (not peak temp) work on even sport/thrash bikes and so need the lower flash oils to reduce/prevent carbon build up.
As Andy said, worrying about or rating an oil on one or two paper specs is selling a lot of oils short.
Well said! It's all about intended use.
Krokit
ArboristSite Operative
going to try opti2.heard its very good oil and they claim that they guarantee to never have a ring or piston problem again.does anybody have info on this oil?
That's one oil I ran, and did not like at all. Opti2 is just concentrated synthetic blend, not a full synthetic, and it does not burn very clean. They're much better oils out there.
Andy you ever run motul 710 2T? I can get mix for 5 gallons at 50:1 for $8 or so. I'm running it right now and it doesn't really have a smell like the stihl ultra did or the klotz hillbilly is running. Seems clean burning too for 40:1.
No I have not, but everything I've heard and read, says Motul is one of the better oil blenders out there. Most highly recommend 800 2T as it's a full Ester syn oil. 710 2T looks like a blend of some kind, not a full ester, it also says it's OK for use in oil injection systems. This usually means it has a thinner viscosity. I'm sure it's great oil, but I'd look for 800 2T factory line off road, I hear it smells like bananas lol.
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tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
710 is a full ester syn Andre, 510 is the blend.
As you guessed, 710 is the thinner JASO FD injector oil vs the race specific 800 2T.
710 would be a great oil to use, and may actually be cleaner burning than 800 2T which does actually smell of bananas, i have to take a big whiff every time I open the bottle
zogger
Tree Freak
A dumb question ~ diesel
I don't have any spare two stroke anything that runs I want to experiment on, just wondering if anyone here has ever tried using just plain diesel and gasoline for the mix? Or perhaps kerosene?
I don't have any spare two stroke anything that runs I want to experiment on, just wondering if anyone here has ever tried using just plain diesel and gasoline for the mix? Or perhaps kerosene?
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Iwould NOT use Diesel or Kerosene as a lube in two-stroke mix. Period. I know some people add a little along with their fave mix oil, but I can't understand why. It adds nothing; not a good enough solvent to do anything, doesn't burn, and not much of a lube.
Unless you like the odor...
One important point to keep in mind: a well adjusted modern chainsaw doesn't put really high demands on the oil in the mix. Echo's powerblend oil is a pefect example of a suitable product for the intended use: a dino base, polybutene component for smoke reduction and a little metallic add package for scuff protection. There are countless others, widely available in whatever packaging you'd like to have.
Some are, IMO, mostly marketing hype. There are oils available in tiny pouches designed to mix at 80:1, even 100:1. They are convenient, and relatively low specific output consumer tools will survive on them...remember even the cheap poulan/weedeater without a lined bore isn't worn out after 40 hrs of use, but it may take the suburban homowner years to rack up that much time!
The price for convenience of those little pillow paks is high for the user that DOESN"T mix a gallon of fuel in the spring, then dump half of it in the mower in the fall. That market segment is probably better served with the pre-mixed fuels appearing now.
While we all seem to complain about "oil threads", we all seem to pile on them. There's something new to be learned from guys like Andshine and TDI-Rick, who seem to have a wealth of learning, and it gives guys like me something to think about while we sit around and feel sorry for ourselves when we're down with the flu.
Merry Christmas!
Unless you like the odor...
One important point to keep in mind: a well adjusted modern chainsaw doesn't put really high demands on the oil in the mix. Echo's powerblend oil is a pefect example of a suitable product for the intended use: a dino base, polybutene component for smoke reduction and a little metallic add package for scuff protection. There are countless others, widely available in whatever packaging you'd like to have.
Some are, IMO, mostly marketing hype. There are oils available in tiny pouches designed to mix at 80:1, even 100:1. They are convenient, and relatively low specific output consumer tools will survive on them...remember even the cheap poulan/weedeater without a lined bore isn't worn out after 40 hrs of use, but it may take the suburban homowner years to rack up that much time!
The price for convenience of those little pillow paks is high for the user that DOESN"T mix a gallon of fuel in the spring, then dump half of it in the mower in the fall. That market segment is probably better served with the pre-mixed fuels appearing now.
While we all seem to complain about "oil threads", we all seem to pile on them. There's something new to be learned from guys like Andshine and TDI-Rick, who seem to have a wealth of learning, and it gives guys like me something to think about while we sit around and feel sorry for ourselves when we're down with the flu.
Merry Christmas!
710 is a full ester syn Andre, 510 is the blend.
As you guessed, 710 is the thinner JASO FD injector oil vs the race specific 800 2T.
710 would be a great oil to use, and may actually be cleaner burning than 800 2T which does actually smell of bananas, i have to take a big whiff every time I open the bottle
Good deal, I don't know much about 710, but it sounds like a good oil. I kinda want to try 800 just for the smell lol.
fidiro
ArboristSite Guru
I always wondered why not make 1 gallon jugs. Don't think I have seen that at my local dealer. What is the cost difference between the 2.5 mix bottles(6 Per pack) vs the gallon? If cost effective enough I'll look for them and just refill a couple empty 2.5 bottles at a time.
But, I have been using stihl orange 2.5 bottles added to 2 gallons 92/93 octane. Makes it about 40:1
Asking price is $59.99, but I'm sure my dealer would give it to me at a better price.
fidiro
ArboristSite Guru
Is this price for the 710 your talking about or is that the gallon of stihl ultra?
stevephillips
ArboristSite Member
Diesel has a very low octane rating (around 20), and adding it to gasoline in any quantity lowers the overall octane rating.
