wedges are gold
Take what you read here with a grain of salt.
I've only dropped 5 trees, that I can recall now, over 40" dbh this year. Just one of those was over 50". I'm in Eastern Oregon; our trees are not nearly as big as West side wood.
Wedges used on all. I carry in my rig and use several different sizes of plastic wedges and also a couple metal ones for about twice a year use. 4 and 5 pound falling axes.
Canyon Angler:
You're right on the wedges having limits in the heavier stuff.
An interesting perspective is the segment calculation method of determining if you can wedge a tree over. Take a look at:
http://www.forestapps.com/tips/wedge/wedge.htm
This is a system that is utilized by smaller timber professionals to somewhat precisely calculate whether a given tree can be wedged successfully.
Where this doesn't work is on many bigger trees. There is no provision or methodology to determine how much weight, or downward force wedge(s) can counter. The weighting referred to in segmenting is to determine the compensation needed for off center factors such as top lean and limbs on one side. That this method does nothing for calculating how many pounds/kilos can be lifted is easily shown by noting that there is no comparison made between a dead tree and live tree.
Take the same tree. In the first instance let’s have this tree alive and full of water in its stems. Later, the exact same tree is dead and dried out. Anyone can see that there are often dead trees that can be lifted because of their lighter weight. The segment method makes no attempt at weight factors; it is just for the dimensional perspective. (No species to species considerations either.)
Now step back and take a look at where that system gets its best use. Smaller timber where weight is less of a factor. It all makes sense, in a way.
There are several wedging tricks to getting a tree where you want it besides the Dutchman.
1) Make your face in a little deeper. {Within reason, you don't want to risk a tree going over backwards.} John Ellison is one I remember posting on how it is often necessary to make a face 50% into the tree on short, but big straight staubs. This is common knowledge out here.
2) Make your backcut and establish wedges in it prior to cutting the notch. Wedges not only in place but just starting to lift are a really big deal on those questionable backleaners.
3) Pound wedges only as the tree is moving forward. Tek9Tim had a good post months ago about watching a falling team from a distance and noting if they were driving when the tree was coming back. A waste of time, materials and fatigue.
4) Use several wedges side by side. If you have a larger tree that say two wedges are not working on, place 5 or 6 across the back and move back and forth on them and they work for each other.
5) When you get to stacking, make sure and stack the wedges at a 90 degree angle or close. They lift easier and yet they hold better.
6) Use metal wedges on occasion as they drive so much better. {Caveat, great eye and face protection from flying metal shrapnel needed.}
7) As often as possible, when dealing with heavier trees, place your driving wedges as close to the back center of the tree. They'll lift better from there than on the sides nearer to the hinge. {Understood that this is a bit against the segment dimensional lift strategy, but we're talking heavier trees right now.}
I have no experience with jacks.
I haven't done step Dutchman’s and angled face Dutchman’s enough to warrant any verbal sputtering. I'm sure they work in the right craftsman’s hands.
All the best.
opcorn:
