Oregon chain breakage !!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Looks to me like that particular drive link missed the heat treating process somehow. I'm thinking this because the link is totally silver, and it pulled apart rather than cracking and breaking.

I think your on the money with that one. But I still think that Oregon sucks
 
I see what you boys are yappin' about!!:jawdrop: :jawdrop:
IMG_0486.jpg

IMG_0485.jpg
 
Some sprockets come with "chip ejectors", holes in the side of the sprocket to let any chips come out the bottom of the grooves in the sprocket. These should always be installed with the "holes" away from the clutch drum to allow chips to eject correctly.

That at least is what the book says...

Mark
 
A ''speed sprocket'' will last through a dozen of chains if you keep proper tension...
Try an 8 pin and see if you like it any more.

Ya' know....I should get a couple 8 pins to run the 16" bars on the 272 and gain some chain speed. 8 pin 272 will prolly cut stupid fast with the 16 incher in the smaller stuff...It's already fast with a 7 and has plenty of power...After having the 24" buried....

I could prolly hang a 36" skipper on this puppy and it'll Get R' Done!!:cheers:
 
I was running the 272 with a 24" bar buried flush cutting a stump... All of a sudden I see the chain disappear from the bar:dizzy: Pull the saw out and the chain snapped like a piece of twine.... Oregon .058 chain brand new! Whats up with this? Another reason why I don't like Oregon....
IMG_0435.jpg

IMG_0436.jpg

I've had a few problems with Oregon chain but never like that. Mine was always a break due to hard chain (brittle) yours was stretched. You hit something and it actually appears to have been between your bar and the drive link. Really an easy fix if you have some repair links.
 
I've had a few problems with Oregon chain but never like that. Mine was always a break due to hard chain (brittle) yours was stretched. You hit something and it actually appears to have been between your bar and the drive link. Really an easy fix if you have some repair links.

I sent that chain back to the Oregon Engineer as requested for a closer examination
 
I sent that chain back to the Oregon Engineer as requested for a closer examination

It would be interesting reading when you get it back. No matter what caused it Oregon's going to tell you that you did something wrong though.
 
I see what you boys are yappin' about!!:jawdrop: :jawdrop:
IMG_0486.jpg

IMG_0485.jpg

i will say that if you don't have anything to compare it to.. you don't know how worn it is. and when you put a new one next to the old one its easy to see. ya learn something new everyday
 
now here's a question... if you are going to have a couple of different length bars for your saw... would it be a good idea to have a separate sprocket for each bar/chain combo? cause you know that one bar chain combo is gonna get used more than others say like a 20" for normal bucking and a 36" for taking some rare big stuff?
 
It would be interesting reading when you get it back. No matter what caused it Oregon's going to tell you that you did something wrong though.

I won't be seeing that chain again. :biggrinbounce2: Every one of my bar and chain setups will have it's own sprocket from here on out. I change them out on my bench before I head out so it's not a big deal to swap sprockets. If I get jammed up in the field and need swap then ohhh well' I'll have to run it with the sprocket thats on it.
 
Well we all know Oregon Engineer is a good guy.

Are you all going to the gie expo this year???

I wan't to meet you guys, and you all can take me to some Louisville
"Mammary" bars, on Oregon's charge card....

Commonwealth Engine won't do it, neither will Gardner......
 
I received a letter from the "Oregon Engineer" stating that they examined the chain and a faulty drive link was assembled into the chain.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top