That's why I bench grind most of the time, would sometimes file too hard on right side and not enough on the left, causing it to cut at an angle.
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Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Oregon chain issue, or is it my filing
- Thread starter JeffreyZirkle
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D
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Aren't angle cutting chains for leaning trees? 
As noted, most people apply greater pressure when filing R or L depending on whether they are right or left-handed. This may not show up until the chain has been filed a number of times.
This is why STIHL, and some other manufacturers, recommend that chains be sharpened on a grinder after two or three hand filings, to even things up.
As far as bulk chain versus factory made loops, they should come off the same manufacturing line. But quality control / assurance may vary with third party or contract manufacturers, which may explain your experience.
Philbert
This is why STIHL, and some other manufacturers, recommend that chains be sharpened on a grinder after two or three hand filings, to even things up.
As far as bulk chain versus factory made loops, they should come off the same manufacturing line. But quality control / assurance may vary with third party or contract manufacturers, which may explain your experience.
Philbert
Can always get a bad batch of cutters, like a car, someone Can buy a Limon.
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Depends on what side the chain cuts, I like my bar on the ground side, hate cutting with it on the top side, but I've cut some that i had to because of the size of the tree. Then you run into the problem it cutting up instead of down towards the ground. Be good for cutting a notch. [emoji51]Aren't angle cutting chains for leaning trees?
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JeffreyZirkle
ArboristSite Member
Lol, it will be Tuesday before I get any pic. It's momma's weekend
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
crotchclimber
ArboristSite Operative
What file guide are you using? Husqvarna roller guide is my favorite guide so far I've tried.
JeffreyZirkle
ArboristSite Member
Oregon from Ace Hardware
Screenshot pic is just for reference
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crotchclimber
ArboristSite Operative
I'm not a fan of that style because you have to keep rotating the file in the holder to keep the file cutting evenly. If you have a dull spot where the top edge of the tooth contacts, it won't sharpen there.
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree.
To the OP, try a bar mount file guide, they're cheap, you'll use the same file as you do now, and there's (almost) no way to sharpen unevenly.
I have sharpened chains with the type of guide pictured above, and ended up with an unevenly sharpened chain many times.
D
Deleted member 149229
Guest
Ok, odd man out, but I've been a machinist my whole life. I like the the Oregon guide. When you have a "feel" for the cut, a learned skill, the guide works great. But like any learned skill, experience is a great teacher, not all can be proficient.
It is simple, and works with most chains (not all file guides do) of the correct pitch. It holds the file at the recommended depth. and helps the user guide it at the correct top plate angle and 'down angle' (should be 0° only with this guide).
The Pferd / STIHL 2-in-1 file guides work with standard chains, but not skip-tooth. They are convenient if you are satisfied with their default depth gauge settings.
The Husqvarna roller guide works with many chains, but not all.
The Granberg style, clamp-on guides provide the most control, allows choice of almost any angles, and work with all chains, but take a little bit of set up.
Since each guide profiles the cutters a little differently, it is best to choose one and stick with it, unless you like to experiment with them (like me).
Philbert
D
Deleted member 149229
Guest
What he said.
JeffreyZirkle
ArboristSite Member
I purchased a 3/8 and .325 set of Husquvarna roller guides tonight and going to give them a try as soon as I get back into cutting.
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I have an old hand me down Granberg my dad gave me, always works fine in the wood.
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
JeffreyZirkle
ArboristSite Member
Unfortunately I never had the time to get picks but yes the sprocket was wore plum out. It even had a stress Crack in it.
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JeffreyZirkle
ArboristSite Member
Well this sprocket is on its 2nd roll of chain. So the chain that is on my saw now is pretty new still.
Will that matter?
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Will that matter?
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happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you ran a brand new chain on a worn-out sprocket, the drive teeth of the chain will also be worn out.
Replace both the sprocket and the chain(s).
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Put up a pic of the bottom {drivers} of the chain.
