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Pioneer chainsaws

Beavers

Beavers

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Remember final torque is 125" lbs , but before you do that first torque the bolts 75" lbs and it is recommended to run engine 2 -2-1/2 hrs before retorquing to 125" lbs. lt is also recommended to give the cyl head fins a sharp rap with hammer , use a block of wood to cover the cyl fins before you strike with hammer prior to retorquing 125
 

Lou

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Hammer the fins at a right angle?
I envision broken fins.
It could also be across the top of the cylinder?
Some clarification, please.
 
Beavers

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Strike the Cyl Top down to reset the Cyl head to gasket before retorquing to 125". l have never broken any fins. l use a piece of 1" oak , The cyl head is flat across so the piece of wood sits firm on cyll fins.
hope this helps.
The tips here are used and recommended by Pioneer/iel in their rebuild manuals.
 

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Lou

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I got it! The same angle as the cylinder head fins. Striking like that will help seat the entire cylinder and pose little danger to any fins common to the cylinder.
Thank you much.
Lou
I am more of an automotive mechanic than a chainsaw Mech. Thanks again.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Hi guys! I've got some good news.Back a couple of months ago I bought a Farmsaw that had been screwed with by someone who obviously didn't know what he was doing.He put a flywheel & recoil on it from a P41.The timing was way off & it'd fire,but wouldn't run.(gee I wonder why?Lol) I ended up buying a good Farmsaw from Trevor (XL130) & some parts to reconstruct the original Farmsaw.The guy also had the wrong carb on it,an HS125,it was supposed to have an HS147 on it.I fiddled with the original Farmsaw & had some carb issues & I got busy with cutting & splitting wood & working on other saws.
Today I finally got back to the Farmsaw.I put the HS125 carb back on & the saw fired right up,but the idle screw was messed up,so I ended up pulling that carb back off & I took a look at the HS147 again.The metering diaphragm wasn't hooked onto the lever,so I fixed that,did a pressure test & it held pressure,so back onto the saw it went.The saw runs like a champ! I've got one problem though - I can't shut the saw off with the switch.I don't know what the idiot did,but there's no wire going to where it should attach to the electronic module.There's a wire attached to the switch like there should be & it goes the route it should behind the flywheel.Then the wire that comes from behind the flywheel & is supposed to go to the module is grounded under the module.It makes no sense.The only way for me to shut the saw off is to choke it out.
 

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PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

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The only way for me to shut the saw off is to choke it out.
Not being familiar with the a/v setup on those saws, it sounds like there needs to be an individual ground established between the handle assembly and ignition system due to the isolation between them because of the rubber a/v mounts. Doesn't sound like the switch currently has an established path to ignition ground to short the circuit and kill the saw -- provided the switch is good to begin with.
 
fossil

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Not being familiar with the a/v setup on those saws, it sounds like there needs to be an individual ground established between the handle assembly and ignition system due to the isolation between them because of the rubber a/v mounts. Doesn't sound like the switch currently has an established path to ignition ground to short the circuit and kill the saw -- provided the switch is good to begin with.


Yep. There is a ground wire that runs from the upper left carb adapter bolt to the upper right isolator screw to carb box.
 
edju1958

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I think this may be the real culprit.As I stated,the wire that comes from behind the flywheel & goes to the module is not connected as it should be.The wire has a loop connector on it & it fastened to the screw that's holding the module in place.In theory this should be a permanent dead short & not allow the saw to run at all.I need to pop the flywheel off the good Farmsaw to see how it's wired & rewire the saw in question.
 

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edju1958

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I've seen some people do some really bone head things when it comes to saws & this one is at the top of the list.He took the wire that is supposed to connect to the module,cut the end of it off & put a loop connector on it & hook it under the module with the mounting screw.I cut the loop connector off,stripped the wire & put a splice of wire in that was long enough to connect back onto the module.I fired up the saw & hit the kill switchj & the saw shut off.Amazing! I only took the recoil off the good saw I got from XL130 to see what was going on,didn't have to remove the flywheel at all.It just looked like the wire went in behind it.Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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Looking at a 2071 currently - how does this saw compare with the p21?

Anyone here familiar with the chain pitch on this saw? Thanks a lot!
That Lightweight .298" chain with a 8 tooth star sprocket, .050 gauge was used on that 2071 model Saw
The 2071 saw originallly came with the OMC carb with push primer bulb attached in a vertical position to intake , but their were restarting problems due to the transfere of heat to carb.
The solution was to use Tilly HU carb mounted an elbow intake. The of heat to carb was reduced sustancially and solved the hot starting problem withthis saw.
Both those saws are about 50 cc and my favorite would be the P21 because of the chain pitch .325 and it s easier to get the Tilly Hu carb rebuild kits.
 
Howsitgoineh

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That Lightweight .298" chain with a 8 tooth star sprocket, .050 gauge was used on that 2071 model Saw
The 2071 saw originallly came with the OMC carb with push primer bulb attached in a vertical position to intake , but their were restarting problems due to the transfere of heat to carb.
The solution was to use Tilly HU carb mounted an elbow intake. The of heat to carb was reduced sustancially and solved the hot starting problem withthis saw.
Both those saws are about 50 cc and my favorite would be the P21 because of the chain pitch .325 and it s easier to get the Tilly Hu carb rebuild kits.
Amazing, thanks for this. I have a p21 and I love it it's my favorite saw.. sadly it's now a parts saw.
I've heard about the pioneer primer setup and would almost definitely switch out the carb to the Tilly.

There's a 2071 available to me for an ok price, I am considering it.

Never heard of a .298 pitch before.. sounds like it'd eat wood though wonder if there's a .325 sprocket that would fit on there?

Thanks again for your help!
 
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