Pioneer chainsaws

[steve-w]

Thank you for looking Lou - I sincerely appreciate your help + search.

To anyone on this thread,
I have an old electric Poulan SuperSmooth SS20 WeedEater VIP (i.e. hedge trimmer) that worked amazingly well. I am looking for a replacement gear - part number 530-400859. All of the online parts sites (e.g. Jacks Small Engines) I have searched as well as Husqvarna's support say this part is discontinued. Does anyone have a suggestion where to look?

Best regards,
Steve

 

[XYooper906]

Hey all, new to the site. I have a Pioneer 1110, inherited from my Dad. I used it when I was a teenager to help him cut firewood. I know it will run, and I intend to get it running again, but ultimately I'd like to just restore it and have it proudly displayed on a shelf in my shop.

If anyone can point me in the right direction for finding parts for it, I would appreciate it. I know I need to find a new air filter, as the old one is separated from the rubber edging. I'll also need the yellow ignition switch.

Also, I've been trying to find some paint codes for the yellow and green paints. From the limited areas of good paint on it, it looks like the yellow has a bit of neon greenish hue to it, but I don't have a good spot to scan to color match it. Most everything is faded into a pale yellow. The medium green metallic on the air filter cover and side is also faded significantly. So if anyone has had some color matching previously done for those colors in that era (1965-1966) I would appreciate having the codes. Thanks!

 

[Lou]

Pioneerguy600 (a moderator); Is famous for overhauling Pioneers. If you research some of his posts (or he responds) you'll likely find exactly what you seek.
Good luck.
Lou
If you research this thread you'll probably find a few others too.
Thanks for your involvement, Jerry and a few others.
My largest contribution is probably my recommendation to use 100LL AVGas rather than pump gas. I have a Pioneer Farmsaw I bought new in 1979. She still fires up and cuts on the rare occasion I need her.

 

[camel2019]

Hey all, new to the site. I have a Pioneer 1110, inherited from my Dad. I used it when I was a teenager to help him cut firewood. I know it will run, and I intend to get it running again, but ultimately I'd like to just restore it and have it proudly displayed on a shelf in my shop.

If anyone can point me in the right direction for finding parts for it, I would appreciate it. I know I need to find a new air filter, as the old one is separated from the rubber edging. I'll also need the yellow ignition switch.

Also, I've been trying to find some paint codes for the yellow and green paints. From the limited areas of good paint on it, it looks like the yellow has a bit of neon greenish hue to it, but I don't have a good spot to scan to color match it. Most everything is faded into a pale yellow. The medium green metallic on the air filter cover and side is also faded significantly. So if anyone has had some color matching previously done for those colors in that era (1965-1966) I would appreciate having the codes. Thanks!

Inside the air filter cover and or inside other parts such as the recoil would be good places to find non faded paint. I have about 4 recoils for these saws now 2 of them yellow if you need I can run it down to the auto body supply and scan it

 

[pioneerguy600]

For my restorations I had paint custom matched as each batch of Pioneer saws seemed each run had their own shade of paint colors I would take a part off the saw that was not exposed to sunlight in to our automotive paint supplier and they would scan them mix me up a quart, sometimes I needed to take it back to have it tweeked a bit, the paint guy there knew just what a mix needed to change it to match my test part. I have to give him kudo`s for his patience to make it perfect..They now can make a mix up and put it in a pressurized rattle can but the mix cannot be tweeked if its not a perfect match but it`s cheaper and no cleanup of an expensive paint gun after. G Max did some beautiful paint jobs on his Pioneer restorations earlier in the Pioneer saw thread ,he was a very experienced automotive painter living in Australia. Fellow member, @Beavers may have a few NOS Pioneer parts for an 1110. I have my dad`s 1110 in original unrestored condition, the 1110 was the saw that replaced his 600 that became my first saw.

 

[cbfarmall]

This saw came to the attention of a member here who brought it to my attention and got it to me. Besides paint, just a few minor issues that were easy to resolve. I am debating painting this thing.

Chris B.

 

[xl130]

Is that a 700?

 

[cbfarmall]

Is that a 700?

A 1750. Couple generations later.

 

[xl130]

A 1750. Couple generations later.

Cool. Never seen one before! I have a 750 project to take on soon. Was thinking it looked very similar but definitely a few differences.

 

[cbfarmall]

I could write an article on the differences and similarities. They are all built the same way, fuel tank assembly bolted to the motor, like a sandcast Poulan. The 1750 has an aluminum tube wrap handle as compared to the 750 chromed steel. All gear drive wrap handles are the same other than grip color. 1750 and later rear handle is sandcast and completely different. All have OMC carbs, 1750 has a choke flap unlike the 700/750 primer system. Ignitions and flywheels stayed the same all the way thru. Top covers and filter setups are vastly different. 750/850 are the only ones to use an air vane governor. 700 cylinder has 6 little transfer ports, odd shaped and 3 ports for the exhaust. 750 has 6 larger, drilled transfers and 4 ports for the exhaust. 1750 has 2 of the transfers on each side joined to form a larger transfer, and the exhaust is larger with a single bridge. Later models and gear drives show different cylinder part numbers but I don't the stories there. Recoils never changed other than screwing a set of plastic fins to the fan housing on the 1750 and ditching the metal screen attached to the flywheel. Clutches never really changed. 700 muffler was different, like a 600 series. Later ones were stamped steel. Can't really fit an earlier exhaust on later saws and vice versa. Ports don't line up well.

 

[cbfarmall]

And, as far as I know, only the 1771 has an auto oiler. Acres website claims the 1870 has an auto oiler, but the IPL shows the same crankcase part number as an 1850 which does not. The auto oiler parts listing are shown with a direct 1771 case, not gear drive. I would love to see a bonafide 1870. Maybe the only giveway would be both the filter and cylinder covers are green. 1750 and 1850 have yellow filter covers. The only other difference I can spot in the IPL is cylinder and piston part numbers.

 

[XYooper906]

Inside the air filter cover and or inside other parts such as the recoil would be good places to find non faded paint. I have about 4 recoils for these saws now 2 of them yellow if you need I can run it down to the auto body supply and scan it

I have not found any places that look like they have enough non-faded paint to get a good scan. Even in the areas not exposed to the sun, the areas with hints of original color are blotchy. Perhaps harsh cleaning agents have taken their toll as well as sun-fade. I appreciate your offer, but please don't make a special trip!

 

[cbfarmall]

I dragged out my 107cc Pioneers (no doubles). Pioneer paint is terrible. It either fades to white or falls off like a Remington. My older JC has much more paint remaining as does my RA. I managed to find a good match for the 700s pale yellow, no clue on the various greens. I am also working to get top cover decals made for the 700 and 700G.

 

[fossil]

I dragged out my 107cc Pioneers (no doubles). Pioneer paint is terrible. It either fades to white or falls off like a Remington. My older JC has much more paint remaining as does my RA. I managed to find a good match for the 700s pale yellow, no clue on the various greens. I am also working to get top cover decals made for the 700 and 700G.View attachment 996332

The paint wasn't all bad. Out of the Toronto plant though.

 

[cbfarmall]

The paint wasn't all bad. Out of the Toronto plant though.

View attachment 996337View attachment 996339

I suppose when you don't use a saw, the paint holds up pretty well. Remington baffles my mind how they change up models. My S990 is red and white, Remington style starter, smallish Bantam muffler, cast wrap handle bracket across the front.

 

[fossil]

I suppose when you don't use a saw, the paint holds up pretty well. Remington baffles my mind how they change up models. My S990 is red and white, Remington style starter, smallish Bantam muffler, cast wrap handle bracket across the front.

The paint on that saw incredibly tough. You would have a hell of a time scraping it off with a knife.

I have a PL-7A that wasn't so lucky.

 

[cbfarmall]

This topic has probably been discussed but darned if I can find it. What are the unique factory features of the P61 Western? Carb, reed, exhaust, muffler? Is there an IPL out there for this version?

Thanks, Chris B.

 

[fossil]

This topic has probably been discussed but darned if I can find it. What are the unique factory features of the P61 Western? Carb, reed, exhaust, muffler? Is there an IPL out there for this version?

Thanks, Chris B.

Most of the Western saws (full wrap bar) had a rear exit muffler pointing straight down, rear side top. That muffler option is not shown on the IPL I have so it may have the lower front cover exit.

I think all of the 61's had SDC-80 carbs.

I can't help you with the reed.

I only have the attached IPL.

 

[cbfarmall]

Tim, that's the IPL I have and it matches my green P61. My P61 western is black and has that rear exit muffler and the shorter bar cover. Carb and reed are not exceptional but that could have been swapped.

 

[cbfarmall]

I read somewhere about different exhaust ports and so cylinders must different if that were the case. I'm keeping my eyes open for a side (not front or rear) exhaust muffler cover and shield.