Picked up another poulan. This one has a chain brake. I believe it to be a 3700 looks identical to the 3700 I just picked up, has the 2 thin piston rings but I have not had it open yet to measure the bore. Got it to fire with some mix poured straight in the carb and unlike the last one I picked up this one oils!
Poulan 3700 featuring chain brake
- Thread starter Rfarr1994
- Start date
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slimbo3006
ArboristSite Member
Nice find. I like those saws... I have a 3400 that I need to find a replacement starter recoil assembly for. I would love to find a 3700 or 4000 P/C to do a conversion...but those are hard to come by nowadays
Rebuilt the carb and it started and idled but when I gave it some gas it immediately flooded and died. I have the metering lever set even with the top of the body but the 2 Phillips head screws are still not tight, is this right? If I tighten them down it pushes the metering lever way down. Are they designed not to be tightened all the way down?
slimbo3006
ArboristSite Member
So I just went through this exact thing with my 3400. rebuilt carb but still didnt run well. Read up online and found the correct setting for the metering lever..(can't remember it exactly but it was below level) Basically I set mine where when I run a straight edge over it, there is just a tiny gap between it and the lever. Saw runs great now. Was doing some chain sharpening today and actually brought this one out to play. it's a PITA starting it with a worn starter gear, but once it was running she is solid.
as for the screws..yes they need to be tight. make sure the gasket and diaphragm are in the right order..
See if this chart helps.. just figure out what carb it is (Walbro hdb8c sounds right...but don't quote me)
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/walbro-carb-metering-levels-chart.192345/
raumati01
ArboristSite Operative
I had one with a chainbrake but it was called a 3800
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Circuit plate screws need to be tight. You adjust the heigth of the metering lever by gently raising or lowering it so its flush with the carb body. Sometimes its easier to simply remove and bend the lever. I've found its easier to raise the lever while on the carb than to lower it.
Got everything put back together and ran it today. I know these saw take a couple pulls to start but mine seems even harder. Also when I set it down and it idles for a while as soon as I pick it up it wants to die, thinking it’s my carb rebuild. The kit I bought the only thing that matched was the pump diaphragm. Nothing else in the kit matched. Can anyone point me to a rebuild kit that all the gaskets match?
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slimbo3006
ArboristSite Member
Yea mine is kinda difficult to start as well. It honestly sounds like it is geared too high. Seems like the engine doesn't spin as fast as my other saws...but maybe not...
Somebody, please correct me if I'm wrong, But I Think that rpm drop on nose down is from being too rich. if it does it when tiled to one side or the other could be leaky crank seals on that side.
Try this for a carb kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/390026155537?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Somebody, please correct me if I'm wrong, But I Think that rpm drop on nose down is from being too rich. if it does it when tiled to one side or the other could be leaky crank seals on that side.
Try this for a carb kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/390026155537?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Not mine, nor a sponsor but this is the kit. Don’t suggest buying an old stock kit that’s over 10 years old either!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/110752183504?hash=item19c95834d0:g:loUAAOxyQBJREwx1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/110752183504?hash=item19c95834d0:g:loUAAOxyQBJREwx1
Freshwater
ArboristSite Member
I’ve got 2 3700s and they are strong well built saws. One with a brake and one with out both still have spark arrestor and baffle in them. Need to do a muffler mod on. Both but just haven’t gotten around to it.
