Poulan S25DA

[Timothy]

so, i left kerosene in the resivoir overnight, and the oiler seems to be working now. unfortunately, that's not the end of it. after i put it back togather i checked for spark, and there was none. then i wiped off the magnet on the flywheel, there was nothing much on it, but after that it had spark, at least before i screwed the plug back in. a couple days ago when i took the top part of the body off, the gasket between the block and the carburator broke in two pieces. i tightened it up good. when i pull the cord, i hear a sucking sound that wasn't there before. i hope this is due to the gasket, and not something from tapping on the crankshaft. i don't have any of the gasket stuff Tom mentioned, nor can i get any easily since i live 14 miles from town with no transportation of my own. would tinfoil work as a replacement gasket? you guys have any ideas? once again, thanks for taking the time to help

 

[Tom Dunlap]

You could also try loosening the nut but not getting it completely off of the threads and hit the nut instead, thus protecting the threads from possible damage fromm the hammer blow.

That's what I suggested here:

After you have the nut loose, run it up so that the top of the nut is flush with the end of the crank.

My dead-blow is too big to get into the area. Brass hammer isn't a bad idea either if there's one in the tool box. With a brain behind the hammer and an understanding that this is a fragile tool not a 20 penny spike there's no reason that a smartly applied hit with a ball peen won't work. I did that for as long as I owned 25's and never busted anything.

Tom

 

[Timothy]

http://www.odref.com/poulan/pdf/poulan/gas-saws/s25da.pdf here's a parts list for this saw i found, if anyone's interested

 

[Hexan]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hexan
You could also try loosening the nut but not getting it completely off of the threads and hit the nut instead, thus protecting the threads from possible damage fromm the hammer blow.



That's what I suggested here:

After you have the nut loose, run it up so that the top of the nut is flush with the end of the crank.

Sorry about that, guess I should have read more carefully.

 

[glens]

Cereal box for the gasket if you have to use the saw before you can get something more suitable.

Glen

 

[Al Smith]

Chances are,the saw has set for a long time.Make sure the air gap on the coil is around 12 thou[ 5 or 6 pieces of printer paper,between the coil,and the flywheel] .Check for spark.If none,then get the flywheel off and check the points.If you dress them,use aluminum oxide paper,and then wipe them with a lense cleaning tissue,to remove all traces of the grit.Check,with a contiuity testor,that the points are going to ground,when in the closed position,and opening,as the crank is rotated.Proper setting on the points ,is around 17 thou.Put it back together,fix your gasket and give it a try.If it doesn't start ,let us know,and we will advise as to more.Good luck.

 

[Mark71GTX]

I found it easier to pop the flywheel off with the pry and smack method - I bought a puller just to pull the flywheel on my saw and it didn't want to come off with the puller at all - it seemed effortless with a hammer and a screwdriver though...
I am not familiar with that saw at all, but if it has a wire going from your coil to an on/off switch - check the wire. I just bought a $55 coil to replace a $0.25 wire myself... it looked good (wire was broken, but insulation was holding the connector on still...) Hope this helps!

 

[Timothy]

the gasket wasn't as bad as i thought, i put it back togather and started it with the carb cover off to fix the idle, it didn't idle before. it ran very fast, faster than it did before i took it apart, so i tried turning the fast adjustment screw both ways no more than half a turn, with no results. now it starts, runs fast for two seconds, then dies. i'm hoping this problem will be easier to fix than the other two, since i know you guys know how to go about adjusting a carburator

 

[Al Smith]

Set both screws,about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out.If it dies after a short time,either the idle screw is wrong,or the carb needs attention.A suggestion,would be to go to Tillotsons web site.They give a good trouble shooting guide,and theory of operation.All diaphragm carbs work the same,so the directions,in the site,would apply to all.Kepp pluggin,you'll get it

 

[Timothy]

got a URL for that? also, it's possible that the problem is an air leak, right?

 

[glens]

Their website is http://www.tillotson.ie/

It's basically all one big Flash presentation and the last time I was there I couldn't find anything like a theory of operation guide.  Maybe Al is talking about one of the "satellite" sites, or an older version of the site or something.

Glen

 

[Al Smith]

Tillotson website

It could have an air leak,but I doubt it.That is the correct link to the web site.Within that website,is an area to down load manuals.Down load model HU.Within the file,it explains how the carb works,and also a trouble shooting guide.Now,these are long files.If you are like Glen,on a dial up,it will take a long time to load.If you are like me ,with a lightning fast cable,and a super puter,it will take about 10 secs.

 

[Al Smith]

HU manual

Here you are,model Hu manual,if it goes through,long file.

 

[Timothy]

today it was running, i adjusted the high speed on the carb just right, i cut some wood for a few minutes, then let it sit for half an hour. i went back, tried to start it, it wouldn't start, so i took the carb cover off and kept trying, got it started put it back on, noticed it wasn't running like it was earlier, i thought it was a little rich, it had less power too, i cut wood for about ten minutes and it seized, it made a clunk and stopped, it won't turn over. i took out the spark plug, it wasn't black like it was before. i filled the cylinder with motor oil, what a bummer. i'll open the thing up later and see what it looks like.

 

[Timothy]

i dumped the oil out, the saw turns over with some effort on the starter cord. the piston and rings have scoring as seen from the exhaust port. it would be helpful i think if i could find a way to attach a socket to my drill, to try to start the thing. i'm pretty sure it still has compression, if it does, it's a lot of it, i don't know how much the fact it's hard to turn over is from extra friction, or more compression. if i wind up being able to start it i'll change the oil mix from 30:1 to 15:1, that sound like a good idea?

 

[sedanman]

Sounds like you need a new project, that saw is toast. Send me you address and I'll send you all the little poulan parts I have, FREE! I'll even pay for the shipping. That reminds me about some 041 parts I sent out, but that's not a matter for public discussion. Anyway, the offer of a free saw (some assembly required) stands. Just lemme have an address.

 

[Timothy]

seroiously? what model are we talking about here? i'll PM you my address

 

[sedanman]

They are red (Craftsman) versions of the saw you have or a real close cousin, they're were a few versions of thos little Poulans. I wouln't have written it if I didn't mean it! I'll go take a pic and post it soon.

 

[Timothy]

i'll send you whatever you pay for shipping

 

[sedanman]

Here's a pic, haven't tried this on the new version yet.