Problems splitting wood

[stevohut]

I know this is going to make me sound like a complete dobber. I have to split my wood by hand and I am having a hell of a time with getting productive results. Can't keep my logs standing up, one chop and they fall over. Is there a trick to holding on to the splitting maul with one hand and smacking it with a sledge in the other hand. Somebody told me to use a light weight maul and grind off the sharp edge so the maul won't stick in the wood if the log doesn't split the first time. I'm realy confused and frustrated.
:censored:

 

[TreePointer]

What wood species are you splitting? What diameter gives you trouble? Green or dry wood? What kind of maul/axe are you using?

When I split with a maul, one swing with the 6 or 8 lb. splitting maul is usually enough to split straight grained wood. An axe specially made for splitting (like the Fiskars Super Splitting Axe) is pretty darn good splitting axe at only 4.25 lbs.

Smaller rounds may be bound together in a tire or with a bungee/rope. See the AKKAMAAN videos.

Wood with a twisted grain (elm, et al.) or crotches of most species are hard to split using any maul or method, and you may want to noodle them with your chainsaw or save them for someone with an hydraulic splitter.

 

[WetBehindtheEar]

Things to consider:

Are the ends 'square'? Does the log tilt to one side or the other? That will cause a chunk to fall pretty easily.

I've seen people use spare tires on top of the splitting block so that the tire keeps all of the splits at least semi-upright. Much like AKKAMAN'S bungee cord version.

In the splitting, are you swinging on green or seasoned wood?

I find most wood splits better when seasoned - except elm. Split that right away if you can.

Anyway, if you are splitting seasoned wood, place the wedge in one of the end-grain checks. It is SOOOO much easier that way.

With a maul or splitting axe... Just swing harder... :lifter:

I'm not the biggest or strongest guy around - skinny track kid from way back with soft hands from years of working on the computer...

Maybe I'm just taking out all of my frustration at the world and don't realize how hard I'm swining.

Actually, you may find good success in 'chipping away' at the edges and corners of a larger log.

Yeah, guys on here say use your saw to 'noodle' a log into smaller pieces but think of all of the wood you are wasting in the kerf... Good luck! :greenchainsaw:

 

[dingeryote]

Screw the lightweight dull Maul bidness.

Mass=momentum. Ya don't split wood with velocity, ya gotta get the wedge/maul between the central fibers to get them apart.

The old tire works to keep 'em upright.
Bungee cord works too.

Another method is what I call "Killing Cockaroaches".

Set up half a dozen rounds in a semi-circle, and with a single burst of focused rage, attack each one untill they are all split.

Then take a sip of frosty beverage, and set up the next group of victims.
It makes good therapy. Especially if ya name the rounds.

Good luck to ya, and mind your toes with the Maul.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[stevohut]

The wood I am trying to split is white poplar and its green fresh cut. They are small rounds about 8"x16". I'm using a light maul I think it's 8lbs if I remember correctly. An old guy told me to use an axe head as a wedge to split with, that's how he does it. I've tried it and it works until you run out of axe head in the log to fully split it.

 

[dingeryote]

The wood I am trying to split is white poplar and its green fresh cut. They are small rounds about 8"x16". I'm using a light maul I think it's 8lbs if I remember correctly. An old guy told me to use an axe head as a wedge to split with, that's how he does it. I've tried it and it works until you run out of axe head in the log to fully split it.

You got a splitting maul?

8" Poplar should be no problem.

Save the wedging for the big rounds ya can't bust with the splitting maul, and get a couple good splitting wedges.

Axe heads are mighty narrow, and springy wood will just swallow 'em and drive ya nuts. In less springy seasoned wood, the axe head might work ok.

In short. Get a splitting Maul and live easier.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[dhamblet]

wood splitting

You should easily be able to split an 8" x 16" round with one swing of a decent splitting maul or even a heavy axe without a wedge. Fact is axe heads are hardened steel unlike splitting wegdes and can spit off dangerous bits when struck by hardened steel like your maul. You will also ruin it as an axe. Go to Home Depot and get a real splitting wedge and a new handle for the axe head and use it as it was intended. I don't know why anyone would intentionally dull the edge of a new maul, they get dull soon enough on their own. The maul should have a steep edge like a cold chisel as opposed to the knife like edge on an axe. I think you're getting some bad advice from your friend.

The wood I am trying to split is white poplar and its green fresh cut. They are small rounds about 8"x16". I'm using a light maul I think it's 8lbs if I remember correctly. An old guy told me to use an axe head as a wedge to split with, that's how he does it. I've tried it and it works until you run out of axe head in the log to fully split it.

 

[stevohut]

Just watched some of those videos on uboob with using bungees and tires and those small splitting axes. I'm impressed and hey if that old guy can do it I better try harder I'm half his age.

 

[logbutcher]

Fiskars Super Splitter.

Large diameter stump/butt not > 16" tall.

Two tires screwed and bolted to the top of the butt (watch those steel-belts in old tires!).

Problem solved.

#2. Get an electric hydraulic splitter (~$275.)

 

[savageactor7]

Poplar splits pretty easy imo ...try not splitting it in half shave some off the sides.

Lots of energy is wasted if the rounds aren't cutting square and you're always hitting angles. That's why armor plating is almost always presented at an angle.

^for hard to split rounds shaving off the sides might be the best bet for you.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

An old guy told me to use an axe head as a wedge to split with, that's how he does it.

Forget that crap! THAT is the source of your problem!


If it's big enough to need wedges, use splitting wedges. You do NOT want something that has a handle sticking out to the side! That just makes the whole thing unbalanced and WAITING to fall over!


One well-placed whack with an 8 pound maul should split that stuff with no problem.

 

[rmount]

Too late for this year but I try to do most of my hand splitting while there is still snow on the ground. Snow makes a great block holder, the rounds don't fall over. After you first stand it up you can half it then take a step to the side and quarter it or whatever. Leave it there till the snow melts then pick up a nice long row of split wood.

 

[tals2]

At 8" dia and 16" tall, your rounds are quite narrow and long. Something to keep in mind for future reference is: The shorter the rounds, the eaisier they split. When I am bucking up a tree, if I notice a piece that will likely not split easily (crotch, etc) I always make sure to cut it extra short. Less wood=less force required to split it.

It will also stand up better if it is shorter.

I split all mine with an 8 lb maul. Works great for 95% of the pieces. The other 5%? Leave them alone for a few days. Come home after work, hit them about 10 times. Do this a few times, if they still wont give, then noodle 'em.

Good Luck.

 

[twoden]

Keep a good sharp axe on hand to cut through stubborn bits of cross grain, a maul and an 10lb. hammer with a few splitting wedges and you should be able to split anything. Split hardwoods green, and soft wood when its seasoned.

 

[stihl sawing]

Screw the lightweight dull Maul bidness.

Mass=momentum. Ya don't split wood with velocity, ya gotta get the wedge/maul between the central fibers to get them apart.

The old tire works to keep 'em upright.
Bungee cord works too.

Another method is what I call "Killing Cockaroaches".

Set up half a dozen rounds in a semi-circle, and with a single burst of focused rage, attack each one untill they are all split.

Then take a sip of frosty beverage, and set up the next group of victims.
It makes good therapy. Especially if ya name the rounds.

Good luck to ya, and mind your toes with the Maul.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

That sounds funny as heck, But i done the same thing for years and it works. You can split a lot of rounds in a short time. just go mad dog on em untill they all fall.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Too late for this year but I try to do most of my hand splitting while there is still snow on the ground. Snow makes a great block holder, the rounds don't fall over.

I use a big oak round as a splitting block. (40" or so, set on gravel.)

Ground soaks up too much energy, unless it's frozen solid.

 

[howellhandmade]

Screw the lightweight dull Maul bidness.

Mass=momentum. Ya don't split wood with velocity, ya gotta get the wedge/maul between the central fibers to get them apart.

SNIP

Good luck to ya, and mind your toes with the Maul.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

I agree, dull and lightweight is a bad combination. But velocity does have a use -- without it, mass is just mass and there IS no momentum. The Fiskars does what it does by using less weight and optimizing for speed and focus of energy. It is quite sharp, and would make short work of 8"x16" poplar. But then, I'd think just about any splitting maul would do the same. On terminology, a maul is basically a handled wedge. While an axe is designed to cut chips, a maul is much fatter and heavier and taperd to split rather than cut. One face will be tapered to a wedge, while the other has a hammer face like a sledge for striking wedges. Except for tools like the Fiskars or Helko, of course -- those are splitting mauls but not meant for hammering wedges. A wedge has no handle. If you're having trouble starting wedges, you can noodle a groove in the log face with your saw.

Jac

 

[indiansprings]

I use a big oak round as a splitting block. (40" or so, set on gravel.)

Ground soaks up too much energy, unless it's frozen solid.
Blue Ridge Mark


The above is also excellent advice. We also use a large oak splitting block.
If your placing them on the ground, your losing a lot of energy. Think of it like hitting a hammer on an anvil or hitting the hammer directly on the ground.
Throw away the axe for splitting get a good splitting maul, 8" x 16" ought to split with one good hit, if used on a splitting block.

 

[gtsawyer]

.....

Set up half a dozen rounds in a semi-circle, and with a single burst of focused rage, attack each one untill they are all split.

Then take a sip of frosty beverage, and set up the next group of victims.
It makes good therapy. Especially if ya name the rounds.

.....

Funniest thing I've read all day. Now I'll be smiling every time I look in the backyard and see my next victims. "single burst of focused rage" hahahahahahaha

 

[Mike PA]

Nail a tire to a log, fill up the tire with rounds, and swing away. I have used bungies, but find myself cutting too many bungies. Use a maul or splitting ax. Poplar should split fairly easily with a Fiskars Super Splitting Ax. I have one and like it a lot. Tough to split elm or gum, but on poplar, it works well. Like everyone else said, if you need a wedge, use a wedge, not an ax. A wedge is a much more efficient shape to split with.