Problems splitting wood

[gwiley]

I have been splitting 10 cords/year by hand, my tips:

1. Splitting wedges (the long tapered ones not the ones with a blunt edge) are perfect when struck by an 8# sledge

2. Use said wedges in large rounds only, keep 3 or 4 b/c some rounds will eat the wedges and you will need a way to free them.

3. A splitting axe or 6# maul applied with vigor to take chunks off the side (see above diagrma on other post) will eventually take care of just about any round.

4. If one round is too hard, move on to the next. Once you have a few bad ones, break out the saw and put a few inch deep notch in them to help get things rolling again.

5. Wear steel toe boots (broken toes are a good teacher).

6. Once you are truly worn out, stop. You MUST deliver each blow with authority or you are just wasting your time.

7. Practice aim until you can place the axe/maul head within 1/8" of the previous blow. This means staring at your target precisely where you intend to strike then follow through.

8. Swing THROUGH the round, not into it.

9. Extend your arms fully - the longer the distance between your shoulders and the striking head the faster you can get it going, F=MA (force = mass X acceleration).

 

[stackwood]

On big rounds my man always work your way in not the other way out , start 3 to 4" on the out side of the round , break the integrity of the log and whoola it will split much easier. Hind site buy a splitter :deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:

 

[D&B Mack]

I use a big oak round as a splitting block. (40" or so, set on gravel.)

Ground soaks up too much energy, unless it's frozen solid.

:agree2:

I bury half the splitting block as well, saves the maul's edge and doesn't move plus gets your log off the ground a little.

 

[ZeroJunk]

just go mad dog on em untill they all fall.

Screaming AHHHEEEEE or BONZAIIIIII helps.

 

[discounthunter]

by the sound of your original post are you trying to pound your maul into your rounds with an sledge?

or is it a wedge pounding in with an sledge?

if you have a maul( usually 6-8 pounds,with a "blade" side and a "sledge" side and a handle)

that is all you need.

a wedge( triangular piece of metel similar to a maul head but no handle slot )is what i would use for a knotty piece or crotch piece

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

:agree2:

I bury half the splitting block as well, saves the maul's edge and doesn't move plus gets your log off the ground a little.

Yep. Much easier on your back to have that elevated a bit. I put the top of the block about 12-14" above ground level.

You can deliver more power to it, too. Better all around!

 

[banshee67]

Another method is what I call "Killing Cockaroaches".

Set up half a dozen rounds in a semi-circle, and with a single burst of focused rage, attack each one untill they are all split.

i absolutely agree 100% , this is the best way, BY FAR, to hand split wood!
the tedious process of one swing, bend over, pick it up, one swing, bend over pick it up, is not economical at all, it honestly makes it harder
i like to conserve energy while standing a bunch of rounds up on end, 10-20, whatever you feel like, then grab the maul and go berserk for 5 mins, and then another rest while setting up more , this is 100 time s better than swing, bend over, swing, bend over

 

[banshee67]

The Fiskars does what it does by using less weight and optimizing for speed and focus of energy. It is quite sharp, and would make short work of 8"x16" poplar.

my fiskars could use a good sharpening but its still pretty dam sharp.. just for fun the other day i set up some 10" or so poplar rounds, straight grained, no knots, i was splitting them with one hand with the fiskars, not the safest, but i had to see if it could be done, one hand about 1/4 way up the shaft *(choked up like t-ball) and i was splitting them all no problem with one hand swings. the fiskars is awsome..for comparison, my 8lb maul would just bounce off and knock them over if i tried to swing with one hand, (please make a fiskars 6" longer tho) lol

 

[TreePointer]

(please make a fiskars 6" longer tho) lol

:blob4:

:wave:

 

[KodiakKen]

heavy maul?

I am 6'3'' and 260 and I prefer a 6 pounder over the monster or even a 8 pounder. I can swing it all day long and not worry about wearing myself out I suppose I have enough azz to do what I need. I bought a cheap crapsman with a really skinny handle years ago..still my favorite. I have to admit. I don't like a shaving sharp edge on a splitting maul. Your splitting the wood not cutting it. I have heard when you get a fancy dancy new maul that you take a file and barely blunt the cutting edge. I have to say I would have trouble cutting butter with mine. Dings and dull..never had a problem splitting with it. why fix it if it ain't broke

 

[Sierra99]

Well, momentum cementum.

Momentum and kinetic energy are confusing. And often confused. In fact I got confused trying to write this. Had to study up. In the context of splitting wood, where the split is accomplished after the ax penetrates a given distance, you want more kinetic energy to do the job, not more momentum. So swing that maul fast!

Ever wonder why that 4.5 lb Fiskars Supersplitter can beat an 8 lb maul in performance? Unless you're Hercules, most folks can accelerate the lighter hammer to a higher velocity, imparting more energy to it than the heavier maul.

It has to do with impulse (force * time) versus work (force * distance). Momentum is proportional to impulse. Kinetic energy is proportional to work. the two are related of course, but the way to measure how much force gets applied through a given distance is to use the kinetic energy equation.

Bottom line: a fast swing with a lighter maul splits with more force than a slow swing with heavier maul, even if they have the same momentum.

Example: Paul Bunyon's 8 lb maul strikes at 20 ft/sec. His gal Paulette has a 4 lb maul but strikes her round at 40 ft/sec. They both have the same momentum (mass * velocity). But Paulette's maul has twice the kinetic energy (1/2 * mass * velocity * velocity). The work performed by the mauls is equal to the kinetic energy. And work equals the average impact force times the distance travelled. So most people get a higher impact force using a lighter maul and a faster swing. This argument doesn't count for much if you own a 16 lb mega maul, I'm not sure why...

Spllitting wood is more complicated than just kinetic energy expended because some energy is absorbed deforming the wood before it breaks. It's an inelastic collision: work is expended deforming the wood before it breaks. Different woods have variable elasticity. States of cure (dryness) also affects elasticity.

I think "rate of loading" has a role: the faster the load is applied the more easily the wood breaks. Think of salt-water taffy sheets: you bend it slow and it deforms. Strike it and it shatters. Wood isn't taffy, I know. But it does have an anisotropic modulus of elasticity: bends easier someways than others. If you take a 1/2 inch branch sometimes you can snap it with a fast effort, but given a slow bend it just bends and does't break. I think this loading issue has a role unrelated to kinetic energy.

The blade "wedge angle" also affects rate of loading... My theory: the speed of split propagation affects required total work to complete the split. I think this contributes to the Fiskar Super Split effectiveness over conventional mauls: you swing it faster, and it has a larger wedge angle so the energy is applied in a shorter distance, increasing the effective splitting force.

Off topic: the flywheel SuperSplitter also splits at high speed: 2 ft/second, or 5 to 8 times faster than hydraulic splitters. Maybe that's why it performs well even though not as massively built. (Plus I bought one in March, and love the thing. Like splitting with Dynamite. But a lot safer.)

 

[TreePointer]

Well, momentum cementum.

Momentum and kinetic energy are confusing. And often confused. In fact I got confused trying to write this. Had to study up. In the context of splitting wood, where the split is accomplished after the ax penetrates a given distance, you want more kinetic energy to do the job, not more momentum. So swing that maul fast!

Ever wonder why that 4.5 lb Fiskars Supersplitter can beat an 8 lb maul in performance? Unless you're Hercules, most folks can accelerate the lighter hammer to a higher velocity, imparting more energy to it than the heavier maul.

It has to do with impulse (force * time) versus work (force * distance). Momentum is proportional to impulse. Kinetic energy is proportional to work. the two are related of course, but the way to measure how much force gets applied through a given distance is to use the kinetic energy equation.

Bottom line: a fast swing with a lighter maul splits with more force than a slow swing with heavier maul, even if they have the same momentum.

Example: Paul Bunyon's 8 lb maul strikes at 20 ft/sec. His gal Paulette has a 4 lb maul but strikes her round at 40 ft/sec. They both have the same momentum (mass * velocity). But Paulette's maul has twice the kinetic energy (1/2 * mass * velocity * velocity). The work performed by the mauls is equal to the kinetic energy. And work equals the average impact force times the distance travelled. So most people get a higher impact force using a lighter maul and a faster swing. This argument doesn't count for much if you own a 16 lb mega maul, I'm not sure why...

Spllitting wood is more complicated than just kinetic energy expended because some energy is absorbed deforming the wood before it breaks. It's an inelastic collision: work is expended deforming the wood before it breaks. Different woods have variable elasticity. States of cure (dryness) also affects elasticity.

I think "rate of loading" has a role: the faster the load is applied the more easily the wood breaks. Think of salt-water taffy sheets: you bend it slow and it deforms. Strike it and it shatters. Wood isn't taffy, I know. But it does have an anisotropic modulus of elasticity: bends easier someways than others. If you take a 1/2 inch branch sometimes you can snap it with a fast effort, but given a slow bend it just bends and does't break. I think this loading issue has a role unrelated to kinetic energy.

The blade "wedge angle" also affects rate of loading... My theory: the speed of split propagation affects required total work to complete the split. I think this contributes to the Fiskar Super Split effectiveness over conventional mauls: you swing it faster, and it has a larger wedge angle so the energy is applied in a shorter distance, increasing the effective splitting force.

Off topic: the flywheel SuperSplitter also splits at high speed: 2 ft/second, or 5 to 8 times faster than hydraulic splitters. Maybe that's why it performs well even though not as massively built. (Plus I bought one in March, and love the thing. Like splitting with Dynamite. But a lot safer.)

I think we're getting closer here. It's time, once again, for the THEORETICAL SLEDGE HAMMER!

P = F / A (Pressure = Force / area)

Take a regular flat-headed sledge hammer and strike the end of a round of wood (a theoretical round if you wish ). All the force (impact force) of the hammer is applied in a circular area on top of the round and directed directly down into the wood (it was a perfect swing). What does this do? It doesn't split the wood; it only forces the round of wood into the ground (and possibly compresses the end of the round a little).

Now reform that same sledge hammer head into a splitting maul with a sharp edge on one side. Use the same swing on that wood round, and the force is now concentrated into a much smaller area (something close to a line instead of a circle) on top of the round. Using the Pressure equation, then P is increased dramatically to the point at which the head is able to start breaking the cellular structure of the wood and start penetration. As soon as penetration starts, the wedge shaped head also starts pushing (forcing) the wood apart perpendicular to the direction of the swing. This force must be perpendicular to the swing plane because the wood flies apart in that direction. The distance the wood travels may be used in the work equation (W = F * d) to determine what amount of work the maul does on each split of wood created.

 

[stihl sawing]

I've split a lot of wood by hand over the years and the best thing i found to bust open a round is the heavy monster maul. You can have the lightweight stuff. More weight equals more force hitting the log. unless you can't swing it very hard. I tried axes and other stuff but none would do the job like the big heavy maul. It's the one in the middle.

On rounds that were to big, The old steel wedge and a sledghammer would do it. Since i bought the splitter, these don't get used anymore.

 

[twoden]

I always wondered why my father-in-law could split wood with less effort than I could after watching for a while I came to the conclusion......Practice, practice, practice, the more you swing whatever maul you have (make sure its a maul or splitting wedge) the more force/kinetic energy/speed/momentum you will be able to put into every swing, at 15 years old I scoffed when my dad told me there was a technique to digging with a pick and shovel. Now after having to dig with a pick and shovel quite a bit I agree with him, the same is true for splitting with a maul. efficiency of movement=a split piece of wood

 

[cnice_37]

I am surprised that in 3 pages of responses no one recommended to OP:

Split in the WINTER!!!

Frozen rounds split much easier. Its also much more pleasant to work in the cold and warm yourself up rather than sweat your balls off.

Other things I've learned:
1. No 1/2 arsed swings, you're wasting your energy. If you are tired, quit.
2. Read the wood. Find where it wants to split naturally. Hint: it's not always right down the middle.
3. On large rounds, work around the edges. If it's a beast then noodle it first.
4. I'm not a big person by any means, but an 8lb maul during the cold months and I can go for an easy 2 hours.
5. Teach yourself how to split with both arms. This lets you split for a lot longer.
6. Split Y's from the backside.
7. When you are cutting into log lengths, think about splitting it later. Makes you think of square edges, figuring out where to put the notch,etc.
8. Beer is a very encouraging energy drink. Not good mix with saws, but hell yes for splitting!
9. If it's Elm, buy a splitter.

 

[Blackjack1234]

I am surprised that in 3 pages of responses no one recommended to OP:

Split in the WINTER!!!

Frozen rounds split much easier. Its also much more pleasant to work in the cold and warm yourself up rather than sweat your balls off.

Other things I've learned:
1. No 1/2 arsed swings, you're wasting your energy. If you are tired, quit.
2. Read the wood. Find where it wants to split naturally. Hint: it's not always right down the middle.
3. On large rounds, work around the edges. If it's a beast then noodle it first.
4. I'm not a big person by any means, but an 8lb maul during the cold months and I can go for an easy 2 hours.
5. Teach yourself how to split with both arms. This lets you split for a lot longer.
6. Split Y's from the backside.
7. When you are cutting into log lengths, think about splitting it later. Makes you think of square edges, figuring out where to put the notch,etc.
8. Beer is a very encouraging energy drink. Not good mix with saws, but hell yes for splitting!
9. If it's Elm, buy a splitter.

As I was reading thru these posts I was thinking the same thing - split in the winter!!! When I was splitting by hand I'd cut one day, stand all the pieces on end, then come back the next morning with my 8 pound maul and split away. Go thru and split a bunch, rest while you stand the big chunks back on end, then split some more.

Also good advice on 'no half-hearted swings'. My technical term was 'critical mass', if I didn't reach critical mass with my swing, forget it.

My other advice would be to throw the tough chunks/crotches to the side for splitting on a power splitter or recreational fire. Too much energy wasted on a crotch.

Not sure if I agree with the putting the chunk to be split up on a block. Yes I agree that soft ground isn't good but putting a 16 inch block up on another 16 inch block would make it awful high.

 

[twoden]

I use a splitting block but I cut one especially for that purpose it is only about 10" x 24" but it puts the wood off the ground so I don't ground my maul. and puts the point of impact at the apex of rotation. don't hit your toes/shins/knees, it won't happen twice.

 

[stihl sawing]

LOL, I just gotta say this. All this about equations about splitting a log. Can you imagine what the old timers are thinkin. all the fancy equations is not going to get the job done. Splitting with a maul is just that, hard labor and brute force.Do all the figuring in the world but it all comes down to buying a decent maul and beatin the hell out of the rounds.

 

[logbutcher]

I've split a lot of wood by hand over the years and the best thing i found to bust open a round is the heavy monster maul. You can have the lightweight stuff. More weight equals more force hitting the log. unless you can't swing it very hard. I tried axes and other stuff but none would do the job like the big heavy maul. It's the one in the middle.

On rounds that were to big, The old steel wedge and a sledghammer would do it. Since i bought the splitter, these don't get used anymore.

Yes, BUTT:
Wedges far left and far right have what I call "shrapnel tops". Grind them off to a 45 deg angle for safety. Keep smashing them with the Monster Maul or sledge, you take a serious chance of those corners flying off into your soft flesh.

From doing the Monty Python dance to the ER. Duck tape staunching the blood, towels, and a lady partner getting a kick out of the whole male thing, then bonding with the ER people. That duct tape does stop the bleeding out, but watch out for the great rip-off. Tears. More tears. We Downeast people don't shave legs yet....like they do in the PNW. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

PS Sierra99--nice explanation of the physics. Perfect, clear. Another PhD in the crowd ?

 

[stihl sawing]

Yes, BUTT:
Wedges far left and far right have what I call "shrapnel tops". Grind them off to a 45 deg angle for safety. Keep smashing them with the Monster Maul or sledge, you take a serious chance of those corners flying off into your soft flesh.

From doing the Monty Python dance to the ER. Duck tape staunching the blood, towels, and a lady partner getting a kick out of the whole male thing, then bonding with the ER people. That duct tape does stop the bleeding out, but watch out for the great rip-off. Tears. More tears. We Downeast people don't shave legs yet....like they do in the PNW. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

PS Sierra99--nice explanation of the physics. Perfect, clear. Another PhD in the crowd ?

those are the good ones.lol wish i still had some of the mushroomed wedges i've had over the years. Yes flakes do fly off when they mushroom. The last one i throwed away had mushroomed half of the wedge. It was not salvagable. If i ground off the bad metal it would be too short. I always wore glasses when splitting too. Since the speeco found it's way home, those wedges are paper weights now.