Raker tool

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Sit it on the teeth either side of the raker and bobs your aunt. Looks like a husky guage

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Can't really tell in your pics, but it should look like this. BTW it's depth gauge, not raker.:msp_wink:

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So u. Just throw her on there and file the raker down till its even with tool or what? Seems like so much material to remove
 
Can't really tell in your pics, but it should look like this. BTW it's depth gauge, not raker.:msp_wink:

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Depth guage:D I usually just use it on the first one and count the amount of full flat file strokes required. Faster and saves wearing the depth guage guage:p Give them a quick check after. By the looks of things that poor chain wasn't cutting anywhere near its full potential.

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BTW, use a flat file that has no "teeth" on the edge of the file. If you do use the wrong file, it tears up the filing gauge pretty quick. Don't ask me how I know.
 
That's the tool I like. Used like in Kay 9's photo.

If you leave it in place while filing it protects the cutter edges. If you remove it, just be careful or use the files with smooth edges as dswensen noted.

Should only have to do this after a few sharpenings, unless you hit a rock. But check them each time. If the cutters are sharp but the chain is not cutting aggressively enough, go back an take another pass or two on each depth gauge - but do this carefully, as you don't want a chain that is too 'grabby'.

It also helps to round the front of the depth gauge over to match the original profile so that is smooth where it contacts the wood.

Philbert
 
Depth guage:D I usually just use it on the first one and count the amount of full flat file strokes required. Faster and saves wearing the depth guage guage:p Give them a quick check after. By the looks of things that poor chain wasn't cutting anywhere near its full potential.

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That method doesn't work well when the cutters are different lengths.
 
That method doesn't work well when the cutters are different lengths.

Agreed buddy. Hence why I advised to give a once over after. The cutters should be the same length though unless it's a stump chain that's not been correctly rectified after hitting harder materials. I guess you're right though, he's better off do them all with the guage the first time unless the chain is in good condition:)

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Learn to use your eyes! same goes with filing! my eyes been serving me well now for at least 25 years in bussiness!(jesus i'am getting old!!!):msp_biggrin:

mama mia!!:msp_scared: hmmm...well whats the alternative to getting old? hmmm well....now i am happy anyway:msp_w00t: well at 42 i still got some great logging years to go....right?:msp_rolleyes:
 
After noticing several of my chains were not pulling good chips I took a feeler guage and a straight edge accross my teeth after using my oregon raker depth took like pictured and found out it was no where near the .025 it shows it should be.

So I would suggest filing some rakers down to what the guage shows to be good and measure the depth after wards with a straight edge and see what you come up with.

Mine was way off:msp_angry:
 
Learn to use your eyes! same goes with filing! my eyes been serving me well now for at least 25 years in bussiness!(jesus i'am getting old!!!):msp_biggrin:

mama mia!!:msp_scared: hmmm...well whats the alternative to getting old? hmmm well....now i am happy anyway:msp_w00t: well at 42 i still got some great logging years to go....right?:msp_rolleyes:

Well said. For speed and productivity its hard to beat hand eye coordination:thumbup:

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That method doesn't work well when the cutters are different lengths.

I think that you get the idea that this creates its own set of issues - if different lengths, the cutter heights and (side) sets are also different, which means a jumpier chain.


After noticing several of my chains were not pulling good chips I took a feeler guage and a straight edge accross my teeth after using my oregon raker depth took like pictured and found out it was no where near the .025 it shows it should be.

That's a good idea to see how accurate these inexpensive tools are. Just remember that your bar is not flat, but arched, so you need some other way to hold them flat when testing this.

Philbert
 
I now just hold a flat piece over them and check them by eye and use a drum shaped stone on my dremel and do it by eye for depth now. Haven't been dissapointed with this method since doing it this way.
 
Well said. For speed and productivity its hard to beat hand eye coordination:thumbup:

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yepp! thats what im trying to say!....but thats easy to say for me.....i have been around for some time! but i always try to say to newbees that they must try to forget all measuring tools when it comes to chains! and learn by hands! you dont wanna be out there in the hills and wondering where you "tools" is and try to be effective cutting trees for money!
 
Yeah fellas I'm only a few months in so I'm just learning still. Lol. Just went over my chain and I gotta say its a pain in the butt trying to hold the guide down and use the file.
 
I like the husky one too. I never used that roller thing but the gauge part works great. And gives you a tapered angle not flat. I find even when my cutters are not perfect in length it still makes a smooth cut, no chatter..
 

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