Raker tool

[Chris-PA]

I file the cutters by eye, but I use one of those tools for the depth gauges and like it. It's shard to see how skipping the tool would be any faster - you just slap it on and give a few swipes with the file. I've never had to file depth gauges on the saw while out cutting firewood cutting, I save that for later and usually use the (flat) chain vice I made. The arch on the bar can give a distorted result.

 

[diggers_dad]

After noticing several of my chains were not pulling good chips I took a feeler guage and a straight edge accross my teeth after using my oregon raker depth took like pictured and found out it was no where near the .025 it shows it should be.

So I would suggest filing some rakers down to what the guage shows to be good and measure the depth after wards with a straight edge and see what you come up with.

Mine was way off:msp_angry:

Hadn't thought about that. I sent ya a rep shot for that little tip! Thanks!

dd

 

[Andyshine77]

Depth guage I usually just use it on the first one and count the amount of full flat file strokes required. Faster and saves wearing the depth guage guage Give them a quick check after. By the looks of things that poor chain wasn't cutting anywhere near its full potential.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

That chain cuts extremely well, this isn't my first ballgame.:msp_wink: Yes, if tooth length varies widely, the gauge depicted is not the best tool to use. However it's likely the best tool for a beginner. Nevertheless I keep the teeth on my chain about the same length, I've even used calipers. If the chain isn't damage, and you pay attention and don't go crazy filing, the teeth will normally stay about the same length. Your eyes can't see .010" .020" all that well, if you don't use a gauge of some kind, you're guessing at best.

Here is a pic of a Carlton progressive depth gauge. I use it on rough chains, non of which I would tolerate owning. Be careful with these gauges as they don't work well on every make of chain do to the link design, and it's easy to set the gauges much too low. Setting the gauges too low is not only dangerous, it's also hard on the saws. The husky gauge also works well.

 

[Andyshine77]

yepp! thats what im trying to say!....but thats easy to say for me.....i have been around for some time! but i always try to say to newbees that they must try to forget all measuring tools when it comes to chains!

So you like teaching people how to do things the wrong way?? Tools are there for a reason.

 

[Andyshine77]

So u. Just throw her on there and file the raker down till its even with tool or what? Seems like so much material to remove

The picture is a bit of an illusion, only a few thousands of an inch is removed at a time.

 

[ROWDY]

I like the one on the Husky roller gauge.

I almost bought that one the last time I was at TSC. Just to know if I would like it better than the ones in my Stihl kits.

 

[lefturnfreek]

This is the one I use, it's made by Husky, it's progressive and you just about can't screw up with it as long as you do all the teeth with one gauge height. I prefer the hard for all around use but the soft is a great chip chukin' time if you have the power as it will grab and make your saw work.

As with any manual filing jig, file the raker that is on the far side of the bar from you, the do the other side from the other side.



Google Image Result for http://www.crawfordsmallengine.com/assets/Modules/CustomCatalogs/Images/ProductImages/250/0000015588ae94d.jpg

 

[Andyshine77]

efturnfreek I've seen them before, they look like they would work well.

 

[Frank Boyer]

I use the 1/4" wheel on the Maxx grinder to do the rakers. I'll file if they are close, but the grinder gets them all the same. If they were way out I use a small dremel type grinder to adjust the raker profile.

I bought a saw from my brother and the chains had been done at a shop. They would hardly cut. The cutters were dull and the rakers had never been touched. After sharpening the saw went from a slug to fun to run.

 

[Chris-PA]

That chain cuts extremely well, this isn't my first ballgame.:msp_wink: Yes, if tooth length varies widely, the gauge depicted is not the best tool to use. However it's likely the best tool for a beginner. Nevertheless I keep the teeth on my chain about the same length, I've even used calipers. If the chain isn't damage, and you pay attention and don't go crazy filing, the teeth will normally stay about the same length. Your eyes can't see .010" .020" all that well, if you don't use a gauge of some kind, you're guessing at best.

Here is a pic of a Carlton progressive depth gauge. I use it on rough chains, non of which I would tolerate owning. Be careful with these gauges as they don't work well on every make of chain do to the link design, and it's easy to set the gauges much too low. Setting the gauges too low is not only dangerous, it's also hard on the saws. The husky gauge also works well.

I spend a lot of time at work with a caliper in my hand, it's always right on my desk, and I agree about not being able to see 0.010" 0.020" all that well.

For perspective on the effect of varying cutter length on the type of gauge showed by the OP, the cutters are at 6[SUP]o[/SUP]. A 0.050" variation of the cutter length at 6[SUP]o[/SUP] is only 0.005" vertical variation at the edge of the tooth, and since you are bridging the top of two teeth you wouldn't see all of that at the depth gauge - so call it a couple of thousandths. It's not nothing, but it is not that huge either. I suspect in real-world cutting performance there are other variable far more important.

 

[Moparmyway]

Yeah fellas I'm only a few months in so I'm just learning still. Lol. Just went over my chain and I gotta say its a pain in the butt trying to hold the guide down and use the file.

I use the guide as a reference only, and use a round carbide burr in an air grinder on low speed for metal removal after the cutter is sharp. No wear on the guide this way

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WIDIA-METAL-REMOVAL-Carbide-Bur-1Z356?Pid=search

 

[IEL]

Once you get used to them, you can go through a chain real fast.

 

[Philbert]

I gotta say its a pain in the butt trying to hold the guide down and use the file.

Phil,

We make a lot of assumptions about how other people work, especially when we can't see it in person. But I may have overlooked a key point, which is to fix the bar and chain as rock solid stable as possible before doing any filing. You may already be doing this - don't mean to assume that you are not, but can't tell for sure.

Tighten the chain tension. Set the chain brake. Clamp the bar in a machinist's vise (preferred), logger's vise, or use clamps and a block of wood if necessary.

That way, all of your filing effort is directed into the cut, and all of your filing control control is on the file direction (pitch, yaw, roll), and NOT compensating for a moving target. If the bar and chain are solid, the saddle style depth gauge tool you pictured will pretty much rest lightly on the cutters, allowing you to use both hands on the file. Should not take a lot of force with a sharp file.

Philbert

 

[phil21502]

Thanks philbert...no I don't have a vice yet. Thinking it'll be my next purchase. Hate bein broke. Lol

 

[Philbert]

Thanks philbert...no I don't have a vice yet. Thinking it'll be my next purchase. Hate bein broke. Lol

Here are some 'don't-have'-a-vise' approaches.

Philbert

Bailey's - Stump Vise

C-clamp and block-O-wood

 

[H 2 H]

Here are some 'don't-have'-a-vise' approaches.

Philbert

Bailey's - Stump Vise

C-clamp and block-O-wood

I found this one

 

[Philbert]

I found this one

Yeah, there are a bunch of different styles. Nice things to take to the wood with you for touch ups, even if you have a nice vise back at the shop.

Philbert

 

[Chris-PA]

Yeah, there are a bunch of different styles. Nice things to take to the wood with you for touch ups, even if you have a nice vise back at the shop.

Philbert

I really do need to look into one of those. Trying to keep the saw from falling off the hood of the Wheel Horse while touching up a chain is somewhat less than ideal......

 

[the swede]

So you like teaching people how to do things the wrong way?? Tools are there for a reason.

Sorry to offend you my friend!....i am sure your tools are great!!...i did not know that learn to file without tools is the "wrong" way? but now i know!(thank you)....i better get some tools then!:msp_tongue:......oh my god.....what have i done!!?? for 25-30 years!!??:msp_scared:

Yes...tools are there for a reason!.....for those who dont know any better!,occational users....and even pro guy's who never get the right "feeling" in their hands....and for stihl, oregon and Husqvarna to sell some more useless stuff!

I guess you tune your carb by the factory settings as well? and not by your ear? the factory settings are there for a reason right?

some people just dont know what they are missing!:confuse:

 

[kevin j]

I use the Oregon style in the earlier picture.
To avoid filing on the top of the tool/gauge, and still protect the cutter edge, I put it in place and drag the square end of the flat file across the top of the slot. If it snags the top of the depth gauge/tooth, then the depth gauge needs to be lowered. Check three or four at a time this way. Then go back and stand the tool on end in the gullet just ahead of the cutting edge and file the depth gauge/tooth a few strokes. The tool is out of the way not getting filed on, and standing up it keeps the file from touching the cutting edge of the tooth.
You will soon learn to tell how many file strokes are necessary by how much the flat end of the file snagged the tooth in the first step.
Phils comments about having a solid bar and chain to file on are good points. No precision if things are moving all around.