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Tree Critter

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While doing some removal work this last weekend I tried something that worked very well, but I would like some feedback on whether you guys think it safe, or not. I had trimmed the branches off of a leader that took off at aprox. a 45 degree angle after 10 feet and went over a house. There was nothing else to rig to so I set up my false crotch, ran my bull rope through it and tied onto the butt of the piece to come off as usual. I was concerned about the shock load because of the condition of the tree, and I didn't want to let it run because it was too close to the roof. So what I did was cut it slowly without a notch and let it peel down until it was hanging straight down, and finished it off with my hand saw. There was barely any shock at all, just a slight swaying. The peeling stopped at the the false crotch sling of coarse, but I was concerned about how something like that would affect the sling because of the outward pressure on it. The piece I took off was approx. 300 lb. and the sling is 3/4 db. I didn't see any other alternative that I felt safe with, so I did it this way and afterward I checked the sling and it was fine. Any comments or critiques?
 
Sounds like you used your head and made the cut that would work. Won't work in every situation, some trees won't peel as well as this one did. Since you had virtually no shock load, I wouldn't think 300 lbs would adversly affect a block or sling designed to handle 3/4" rope. Congrats on using your head and figuring out what would work! :blob2:
 
A 300 log at a 45 dgree angle won't have much wood left by the time it starts to fall and that sling is pretty tough.
If there was any question, just take smaller pieces.

This can be a problem, when the peeling wood grabs your lanyard and gives you a pull.
 
I've used that trick - works well when the wood isn't too brittle. Doesn't look all that professional to the customer, but as long as I was comfortable where the limb would go without a notch, then I used it.
 
I do peel cuts alot. What I usualy do in that situation in rigging off the branch is do small undercut just befor the anchor point. Another thing is to set up a number of redirects so that the rope runs trough them all and then use each redirect as a rigging sling. You are chunking the pieces down, the rope catches them and you can remove and pitch. then go to the next one.
 
Rip or peel cuts can work most of the time. Be REALLY careful of having the butt end baber chair and come up and slap you.

John describes the fishing pole technique. Nice option.

If a limb is large enough why not go out and strip the tip with a pole saw or a power pole saw? then you can cut the wood off in chunks with snap cuts.

Tom
 
Snap cuts are different for the different attitudes of the log. Like any rigging or cutting, find any opportunity to practice. If you have a place that you can do anything, try really difficult cuts. That way when it is time that you can only cut and drop ONE way, you will have practice.

Instead of having the hinge or snap woodbe in line with the fall of the piece, move the hinge ninety degrees so that it lines up with the radius of the tree rather than the circumference. By doing this, the piece will stay vertical longer and you can have more overlap with the cuts.

to get a handle on snap cuts, you can choke a sling onto the piece. gives you different control. By choking at the top, you get more leverage just like a tip over rope. Also, the sling is an easier handle on the log for our small hands with our non-monkey thumbs.

Tom
 
In london, we work in a lot of small gardens over sheds and conservertories almost every day, and i find the peel cut quite handy, frequently. I like to cut most of the way through, put my saw away, get my handsaw out and finish the cut with my free hand helping to quide the branch.
 
Snap Cuts

Can someone explain what a snap cut is?

Also, I'm very interested in rigging for removal now and was wondering if there is a "best" book out there. Preferably a book that explains rigging, climbing, knots, etc. In other words, an "all-around book".
 
The most important book for any arbo to own would be The Tree Climbers Companion by Jeff Jepson followed by Arborist Equipment by Don Blair. The information in these two books is more valuable than your saddle. Buy and read them right away.

The new video series by the ISA, The Art and Science of Practical Rigging, ASPR'n is great. The workbook is well illustrated. The series was developed from an outline that Dr. Pete Donzelli wrote.

A snap cut is made by cutting from one side of a chunk through to about 50-60% of the diameter. then another cut is made above or below the first. The second cut overlaps the first but there is a hinge of holding wood. This hinge will hold the chunk in place . After hanging the chainsaw, the climber can snap the piece off and chuck it. This is described in ASPR'n. This is a good technique to master. Practice where it is safe.

Tom
 
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Snap, break or mismatch cuts are crucial for cut and chuck operation. Two other things, Try to have the cuts 90 deg. from the lean (is that what you were saying Tom?) and second cut should be under first so accidentily push the piece over if you cut too far.

Another thening for leverage on a sling handle; girth hitch on the opposet side from the pull so the you get as much leve action as possible. Oh and don't wrap your hand on the biguns :D
 
Thanks for all the great replies everyone. I had heard of the fishing pole technique before but haven't tried it yet. It looks like it would help speed things up, and would help distribute the weight along the entire stem instead of all the shock being on the end. Looks like I need to order more fc block and slings.:D
 
I actually had just ordered Arbo Equipment by Blair yesterday before I got your response to this, Tom. :) The book just looked like it would cover everything. And Tree Climber's Companion, besides this awesome forum, is where I've learned all that I know now. Thanks.
 
Tom, could you please email me some rigging links, as a fairly new climber I`ve just started to get into rigging techniques quite recently and would love to learn more. Cheers.
 
We say bananna peel onthat fishing pole technique.

Eye see it as bending over the leveraged weight, so the next peel will hold on longer because less pull on it from leverage! Also, limb is moving closer to the ground for less drop/ impact. especialy if you are tipping over soft green end that absorbs shock easily, it can change everything.

A companion technique for accentuating all this is to cut across slightly, so that you are not feeding directly ino gravity, but it is bending slightly crosswise; will hang on longer, and steer! Another one is to bend it over and cut some of the branches off that have now cleared obstacle below, lessening weight even more. Self rigging tree!

i think that the snap cut works because it pits both faces of the face aginst each other, and causes a total release all at once, for a straight drop on horizontals, and hopping a pine top over a fence. The faces slam together , and you get the hop, or instantaneous release that doesn't pull backwards, for everything else being equal, i believe that the limb will go in the direction of final pull. If you can kerf cut it deep, and narrow the sides (for speed cutting backcut with less fiber fighting against), and get that instantaneous release, you can usher a new set of controls.

Cutting to the side slightly also helps by throwing some of the total wieght sideways, thereby not pulling directly down with gravity.

-KC
 

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